Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just wondering if anyone else has the factory remote central locking in there skyline? (I've got a Series II) I'm having some issues with it, when I originally bought the car it only seemed to work when sitting in the car. I thought "No problem" just get a new battery for the remote. Prior to purchasing a new battery it stopped working all together and a new battery has not solved the issue. Thoughts would be appreciated, especially from anyone who has dealt with this before. For starters, where's the control unit and RF receiver?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95455-factory-remote-central-locking/
Share on other sites

96+s2 has the control unit on hte passenger side beside the glovebox on the outside. glove box and panel have ro be removed to get at it. yours *MAY* be a dealer fit item ( I see a lot of these) and if you are lucky nissan *MAY* be able to rekey it. failing that - aftermarket is $100 for the whole unit with a boot release option.

I had this problem as well; it was my remote that was stuffed for my s1 R33. Got it fixed for 25 simoleans by an alarm install place, the guy was really good. According to him once you lose the factory remote or if it gets smashed then that's it as it's nearly impossible to re-code the factory remote.

"There's very little meat in these gym mats!"

Hey the guy who fixed it for me is acually a member of these forums, goes by the name of MaxAction. His contact number for his business is (08) 9242 4000 in Perth. Hope this helps!

"There's very little meat in these gym mats!"

Mine was in the driver door, under the trim. Stamped as Nissan all over it, with a little arial on it. I never got the key, so I dunno if it works. I disconnected the unit from the harness, and my car security installer was able to tap off it to install the remote central locking in my alarm system. =-D

I have a piccy if anyone's interested?

looks like the one I pull from 32,33 GTR's . thats a dealer fit item. the FACTORY fit one is the one I described. I like the dealer one as it gives me an actuator to work with when I do alarms in those cars. I keep the siren as it makes a good lights on reminder.

Ok,

pulled off both door trims and did not find the above module. I did however find this module above the pedals in the foot well

module.jpg

I imagine that is the control unit, was connected to a green plug. Wonder if I can take this in to a place and have it tested with my remote, or better yet talk to Nissan.

Thoughts?

Also..

Found this plug spare, no idea what it's for, anyone know? Diagnostic connector or something?

plug.jpg

IF you can find one the toyota dealers used that module in the celica and a few other cars from 96-99. may be worth a shot. as for programming it- any alpine dealer may still have te manuals for a 8040 or 8041 and they will be able to program it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you tried another indicator stalk? Sometimes these go bad and cause issues.
    • They're so beautiful 😍
    • Early last week, I became concerned that the car was feeling....slow. Most of my driving is commuting to/from work and there are few opportunities to get up it and convincingly make boost/power. It drives in vacuum almost all the time. But when you do occasionally get an opportunity, and.... it takes a little longer to start making power, and then there's not as much as you'd expect, and then you run out of road anyway and have to bottle out - it can be hard to be convinced that there's something wrong. But by the end of the week I was pretty convinced. Made an effort to get a decent test run. Took bloody forever to come up on boost and when it did it would only make about 50 kPa of pressure. There was no black smoke, no noise of a boost or exhaust leak, no evidence anywhere of an intercooler hose clamp being sloppy enough to let air escape. So.... not that sort of problem. Brainstorming led to thinking that the boost controller's solenoid might have failed in some way. No active boost control would just give wastegate pressure, which I was more or less getting, and the laggy behaviour could just be "normal" shitty boost response from an uncontrolled highflow. But a little extra 3rd party brainstorming led to the thought that the actuator circlip might have jumped off leaving me with a bluetooth wastegate. So, on Friday, off comes the stock heatshield (which is an annoying enough job on its own) to reveal - yup. WG is wide open. And.... it won't come back. It is jammed in the dump. Put the rod back on with a new circlip and tried driving it to get it hot in the hope that the capture was from thermal effects having been blown into the dump when hot and since cooled. Nope. Won't move, even with screwdriver mediated force when hot. Ran out of time to play. Came back to it yesterday. Unbolted the dump. Was lying under it with the dump jammed up against my guts undoing the bottom 2 bolts. Got them most of the way out and gave the dump a serious heave. It didn't noticeably move, but there was a satisfying "plink" noise from up to. Shuffle out and sure enough, gate is now closed. Nevermind that there was still the better part of an hour after that required to put it all back together. f**ken cars.
    • For your application, where you'll be at that 1/2" size or perhaps larger, yeah, excellent. Although not if you need a tight bending radius anywhere, because the corrugated stuff is not anywhere near as flexible as rubber/teflon cored stuff. But for turbo oil lines? No. Too big. They just don't do the corro stuff down at the ~1/4" ID size that you'd want, and if they did the OD of it would probably be a bit too fat for fitting it into the tight spaces available. I use hoses like that all the time for fuel gases (LPG, NG) and liquid fuels (HFO, diesels, waste oils). When we did the London Olympic cauldron, with the 204 individual burners on it, we had miles of the stuff (although a lot of that was teflon core). A bunch of that crap is still cluttering up the workshop, more than 12 years later!
    • Would something like this be an option  https://processhose.com/products/configurable-metal-hoses/1-2-in-t316-stainless-steel-annular-corrugated-configurable-flexible-metal-hose-assembly-with-ends-t304-single-braid-masterflex-af5550.html I'm looking at this for replacing the OEM EGR when installing a aftermarket intake plenum 
×
×
  • Create New...