Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just installed a boost controller and running 1 bar, tonight i took the car out for a spin and when i'm driviing in 3 or 4th the car just slows down as if its down shifting or something (for 2secs) then comes back to normal (it actually did it a few time).

the car is still running the stock exhaust, apart from the boost controller and a blitz bov the car is stock.

I'm guessing slipping clutch, but i've never driven a car with a slipping clutch, any ideas??

also what does a slipping clutch feel like??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9546-slipping-clutch/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by meggala

there is also a boost cut at aoround 12 psi or so which could be causeing the problem

thanks meggala, that actually sounds right, i'll run 0.8 until i put the exhaust on. how does one overcome the boost cut off

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9546-slipping-clutch/#findComment-144912
Share on other sites

when you say it feels like the brakes have been applied, is it like someone has SLAMMED them on hard, or is it like they are being applied gently?

I'm guessing it's the first, as at 1 bar, you are definately hitting the boost cut, and with a std exhaust and standard intercooler, your AFM will be maxing out! If your intercooler is stock, and you have set the ebc for 1 bar, your turbo is producing almost 2 bar, to make up for the preassure drop accross the intercooler!!!!

Keep it at this setting and your turbo wont last long at all, especially with a SII R33.

Wind it down to 0.7 bar (no more), and let us know how you go...

Even when you upgrade your intercooler and exhaust (and intake), I would not be going past 0.8 bar with the stock turbo.... if you want it to live...

Zahos

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9546-slipping-clutch/#findComment-145089
Share on other sites

I ran 14 pound on my stocky for bloody ages and nothing happend. And if its not your clutch i dont know how or why someone said it was but its not. Slipping clutch the car will just rev up but wont pull. From what your saying its not reving up. So it aint your clutch.

Either boost cut or your talking bout the standard R33 standard ecu flat spot that we have all enjoyed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9546-slipping-clutch/#findComment-145493
Share on other sites

thanks everyone for your replies.

well it appears that it was hitting the boost cut off, cause i reduced the boost to 0.8 and increated the duty cycle and it seems fine. but there is a noise from the boost controller unit in the engine bay when it hits boost, apparently thats normal any comment would be appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9546-slipping-clutch/#findComment-152947
Share on other sites

boost cut often feels like you've hit a brick wall... the motor loses revs really quickly, and it can shake the whole car up if your pushing hard....

as for the boost controller... it would be bleeding air off when you reach the stock boost level, as it needs to maintain a level below stock boost at the wastegate, but the boost that the controller (between manifold and wastegate) is seeing is still rising... so there will be air being released... it should be a reasonably quiet sound... but u might be able to notice it...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9546-slipping-clutch/#findComment-153068
Share on other sites

i bet your car feels quicker with 0.8 bar boost than at 1 bar with the stock cooler and exhaust, coz at 1 bar with stock cooler and exhaust u r producing more heat than power, and u can say bye bye to your turbo as it will be running nearly 2 bar as Zahos said!!

people still dont understand that more boost doesent always mean more power!:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9546-slipping-clutch/#findComment-153179
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
    • what sort of caliper are they? If they are a slider and you gave everything a good clean, you might need to regrease the pins. My guess though is they will come good after some abuse as suggested above
    • I don't know what you should expect with an LS, but the oil pressure sounds terrible, sorry. As for the brakes, you can get fade from the pads not just the fluid, although generally that feels like a wooden block not doing anything while fluid feels like an oh shit there is no pedal so you can generally tell. What pads are you running front and rear?
    • Went over my datalogs on a whim and noticed a worrying combination of events. High RPM High Temperature Low Oil Pressure Knock Retard I bought some 10w-60 because I actually think this will be better going forward given track temp is 125C and 10-40 will actually be thinner in those environments. I know I had a leak but it's not entirely sure how much pressure loss can be attributed to that. The knock retard does correlate with all of the above. When it's not present oil pressure is higher. And by 'low' I mean at 6800 RPM the oil pressure was recorded as low as ~35psi pretty constantly. Which is obviously very not good. I'm hoping that thicker oil that ISNT LEAKING will result in a bit more pressure when I need it. Also in the last session I got a very spongy break pedal. I bled the lines as the car is on jack stand right now with the wheels off and I noticed... no air in the lines? Maybe the tiniest bit of tiny frothy bubbles for the first 0.1 seconds of bleeding the whole car? The breaks did come back to me after I backed off (and felt fine driving normally). Doesn't appear to be any leaks anywhere that I can see. Any thoughts on that?
    • Solution, run shitter tyres. Let wheel spin be your weak link 😛
×
×
  • Create New...