Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

is there any way of telling if its a cam gear slipped a tooth appart from taking off covers? I would have thought this wuld make the car drive like crap as well.

May take it down the quarter soon to see what it gets. Then decide if i should get shift kit

  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

you can get the shift kit with filter kit from MV for like 400$ then ill just fit it not a bad price.

Went down to allfast torque converters and they said about 1350 for a 3000rpm histall as well. But yeah don't know if ill ever go that far

I only threw in the cam gear comment as a general example of a possible cause. It isn't very likely.

How much power did the car make with the old turbo? And when was the stock turbo hitting full boost and what boost were you running?

  • 2 weeks later...

I just thought I'd come back to this one.. seeing as similar situation

Today I ended up getting only got 178rwhp in my R32 with RB25 highflowed turbo @ 16psi, turbotech boost valve, SAFC, fmic, nismo fpr, gtr fuel pump, and 3" full exhaust system.

The same turbo made 230rwkw (300rwhp) on an RB25 at 16psi... so it seems like a very similar situation to yours Anton. Decent turbo - but just doesn't seem to pull the figures on an auto RB20.. Maybe the turbo needs 20psi wring into it to really pull its efficiency range (wouldn't trust that on a stock rb20) ? and probably it requires proper management. But of course PowerFC won't of course run with auto...

Mind you it was about 30 degrees.. not shootout mode and that dyno reads quite low... but still, even if you add 10-20% for that, there is something about auto r32 that is funny here. You'd expect higher, and the engine has high compression and no other signs of ill-health. While the SAFC is not an ideal solution, you wouldn't think it would hold it back as much as it has.

Car feels pretty fast (and maybe is), so i'm not too disappointed... anyhow, thats enough rb20 for me. Will leave it as is for 3 months or so then rb25 + manual gearbox + powerfc is going in..

rb20 + auto :P bad combo..

and probably it requires proper management. But of course PowerFC won't of course run with auto...

It will make a difference however has the standard ECU been remapped? as this could help it out quite a bit, got a dyno graph with A/F ratios on it? is it losing out on the top end or all over the spectrum?

To add to this, we relooked at the tune on a cooler day and got about 250rwhp ( I think) out of it with a bit more adventurous timing and a little more boost. We tend to try and run a conservative package in timing if possible but Anton seemed a little disappointed with the previous result so we try to please.. :D

The auto basically gave up the ghost with the clutch packs/bands starting to smell after a few runs.

Anton seemed happy when he left and I hope the auto is still driving :)

Cheers

Ken

Anton, Drop a R32 5speed in it.. They are dirt cheap. :)

Look in to the patrol clutch, they are cheap and an upgrade over std, I'll assume they would be good enough for 200rwkw.

Manual... Better fuel economy, better life out of your brakes. Do it. :D

yeh, the gearbox are fairly cheap..but the rest are the fiddly bits and some are hard to get hold of these days.. minimum $1k + labour to get it done. anyhow, good luck with the quest anton for manual parts if you decide that route.

It will make a difference however has the standard ECU been remapped? as this could help it out quite a bit, got a dyno graph with A/F ratios on it? is it losing out on the top end or all over the spectrum?

mine feels very strong.. at least 40-50% more power than stock and when it comes on boost you know about it.. so I'm not sure of the dyno reading.. a/f ratios are nice and even around 11.5 near the top end, and at least I know I can give it a hammering in the heat. Power just flattens off at the top and that is where it stays... will post a dyno sheet later.

Going to give it a drag strip run, that will give me a better benchmark..

I think really to get any more power out of mine (or any other highflow rb25 turbo for that matter), the answer would simply be more boost, and lots of it... at least 16psi+

I always forget about the labour side of things as I do everything myself. :D

But if the auto is shagged he is up for the cost of removal/install anyway so it may be a good time to consider the swap.

RB20's do indeed need lots of boost to get the air in past those small valves.

Edited by Cubes

You just need the stage 2 shift kit from MV in Adelaide to fix the hitting rev limiter problem.

I've had my auto for almost 2 years and I don't baby it. The only problem was hitting the rev limiter from first to second and slow gear changes. It was more obvious once I've put on a 3" exhaust. Once I put the shift kit in the problems were gone.

Also, the power you're makin does seam a bit low.

Mine has full exhaust, cooler, pod and stock rb25 turbo running 14 psi and makes 168 rwkw on a conservative dyno.

ECU chip is next.

Edited by nedb

just a comparison on the r33 auto cars, im interested in what other people are getting with there cars and what they have done to it. I have a 3" exhaust with split pulse dump pipe, 10.5 psi with GBF bleed valve, SAFC2 tuned by Hyperdrive, standard auto, standard cooler (soon to be fmic) and im getting 215rwhp and 1/4 mile of 14.7 at best.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...