Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok in the last two weeks my car has started doing this. when i'm driving the car to work in the morning, probably every second day the car completely shuts itself down.

it usually happens when the oil is at 10 degrees below normal temperature.And everytime, the hicas light comes on and then the 4wd light follows. then the engine loses power and stops.

then after this happens it takes almost an hour for the car to start again.Also when i try to start the car the fuel pump doesn't make the buzzing sound like normal.

the car is stock except for a cat-back exhaust, oh and it is an r32 gtr

any help is really appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95739-engine-shuts-down/
Share on other sites

I had this problem 2 weeks ago, and it is already fixed, it cost me $470. Mechanican changed 4 sparkplugs and replace some thing to control the fuel go into the engine because the fuel wasn't burning completely. So first, u can try to change sparkplugs and see how it goes. That may save u some money.

How old is your battery? Skylines are notorious for their susceptibility to voltages and charge rates.

The other possibility is the ignitor module for the coils - they tend to be susceptible to excessive heat and will often stop until given the chance to cool off a bit.

yeh that sounds like it could be it, it happens intermittently just before the oil gets to working temp, but it doesn't happen all the time, 70% of the time it drives fine

although usually before it happens the car has a slight miss, sorry to hear about you're car what replaced it?

My car is doing this also. It was fine before I took it to the mechanic, he replaced the AFM cause they said the car was running lean. Now it drops out on me and has flat spots. I usually just wait a minute before starting it again and then it seems to be ok. It happended for a couple days. Then i fiddled around with the AFM it didn't do it for 2 days.. now its doing it again. So i'm guessing the mechanic put in a dodgy AFM. Or maybe its the fuel pump. I have to take it back and get them to look at it. I just hope this doesn't cause any damage to any other parts of the engine, the turbo especially. All of the misfiring and stopping and starting.

I had this problem 2 weeks ago, and it is already fixed, it cost me $470. Mechanican changed 4 sparkplugs and replace some thing to control the fuel go into the engine because the fuel wasn't burning completely. So first, u can try to change sparkplugs and see how it goes. That may save u some money.

do you know what the part was that the mech changed?

So have you fixed ur car?? because my car just happen exactly the same problem again. And i don't want to spen any more money on this, what did you do for ur car. and do you know where are the spark plugs, i can't find where it is.

Well thats a good one. Spark plugs are under your coil pack cover. The aluminium bit that goes over your engine head (In the middle). Under that you have your coil pack, then under that are your spark plugs. =)

Do you have an Rb20,25 or 26? The Rb20, you might need to take off the oil hose on the top first.

Well done, I hope your C.A.S. was the problem... how much did you spend all up to fix your problem?

Thanks. B)

Well thats a good one.  Spark plugs are under your coil pack cover.  The aluminium bit that goes over your engine head (In the middle).  Under that you have your coil pack, then under that are your spark plugs. =)

Do you have an Rb20,25 or 26? The Rb20, you might need to take off the oil hose on the top first.

Well done, I hope your C.A.S. was the problem... how much did you spend all up to fix your problem?

Thanks.  B)

First, I spent 470, then 3 weeks later it seem like happen again, machanican recomenced me to change bigger muffler becaue it can burn more fuel. I bourgh a full Apexi muffler system, it cost me only 520, now car works perfectly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...