Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

TIME HAS COME TO SELL MY GTR BECAUSE I WANT TO GIVE DRIFTING A GO AND THIS CAR HAS TO MUCH POWER AND IS SET UP FOR STREET OR DRAG AND WOULD COST TO MUCH TO CONVERT IT INTO A DRIFT CAR

ENGINE MOD:

8000 KM ON ALL AFTERMARKET PARTS

VENOLIA FORGED PISTONS

N1 OIL PUMP

N1 WATER PUMP

PORTED HEAD

MATCHED PORTED INLET AND EXHAUST MANIFOLDS

HEAT TREATED HEAD

NEW EXHAUST VALVES

NEW INLET VALVES

TOMIE STEP 2 CAMS

OS GIKEN TWIN PLATE

SHOT PEENED RODS

HKS HEAD GASKET

HKS EXHAUST MANIFOLD

HKS GT WASTE GATE

HKS TO4R TURBO

HKS ADJUSTABLE CAM GEARS

HKS 106 MM INTERCOOLER

HKS PLUMBIMG

SARD INJECTORS

NISMO ADJUSTABLE FUEL REG

BOSH IN TANK FUEL PUMP

APEXI POWER FC COMPUTER

APEXI BOOST CONTROLLER

APEXI HAND CONTROLLER

VEILSIDE 80 MM EXHAUST

REBUILT FRONT DIFF

TWIN PUFF BOV"S

FULLY POLISHED ENGINE COVERS

CAR MADE 518 HP AT THE WHEELS ON 18 PSI

CAR MODS:

NISMO BODY KIT

BILSTEEN SUSPENSION

18 X 9.5 INCH DRIFT R WHEELS

CARBON FIBRE BONNET

GREEDY PILLER MOUNT

GREEDY GAUGES

ALPINE CD PLAYER

TINTED WINDOWS

DELETED WING

NEW PAINT JOB

86000KM

PLEASE NO TEST PILOTS, SERIOUS BUYERS ONLY

WILL TRAVEL TO SHOW SERIOUS BUYERS

$42000 o.n.o (will consider trade for drift car with cash adjustment)

0400666483

post-9695-1132567783.jpg

post-9695-1132568012.jpg

post-9695-1132568108.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95760-big-hp-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

no thats not correct. i sold the car about a year ago and i am posting it back on here for the owner because he is a mate of mine.

since i have sold the car its had a full respray and carbon fibre bonnet and has also had it tuned.

still for sale at $37000 (trades welcome)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95760-big-hp-r32-gtr/#findComment-1878258
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...