Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can i ask what EMS computer your running. Is it the Stinger?

If so how are you finding normal driving as far as throttle response and fuel economy. I dont know if the Sitnger can run closed loop, i know the Microtechs dont.

On paper the EMS seems a little down on functions, but if only being used in piggy back it may be ideal.

I would appreciate the feedback as need to get a computer in the next two weeks for my RB20DET

brendanf,

nice pics of the engine bay, looks similar to mine, I would suggest though that you do the pipes to a from the turbo, I did and it made a big difference, plus looks much better. It probably won't give you much more top end power, but the torque will be noticeable.

sidewaymambo,

Yes the VVT we are talking about is actually NVCS, but everyone understands what VVT means.

See'ya:burnout:

Re Throttle response - no problems there. Re Fuel Economy - has gone down, but we are working on that (approx 300kms per 50 litres) ~ 17L/100kms. I reckon it is running too rich because of axhaustr smell and black crap that spew out of exhaust when I dump it... But when on the dyno the A/F rations are perfect... I'm taking it to another dyno in 2 weeks for a compare......

Hi again Brendanf, engine bay is looking good. If you dont mind me asking, where did you get the plenum? What sort of figures does is flow? Did it come with a throttle body, or will the stock one fit up? Does it come with a fuel rail? And if you don't mind, what did it cost?

Something else you could do that you will probably find will help, is either wrap your dump or get it ceramic or HPC coated - this will help with scavenging and also help keep underbonnet temps down. Also if you go ceramic coat, you could probably get your coola to plenum pipe and turbine housing done at the same time, as they usually dont charge by the inch like HPC do, and it probably wont cost you much more to get them done at the same time.

Whatsisname, did you actually do before and after dynos on the cam gear and thermo fan? Ho do you find the temp regulation of the thermo fan? Is it as good as the stock fan? Are you still running the stock radiator?

Hope you dont mind all the questions

Cheers

Steve

yeah I say the plenium looks really good I like it alot not what i was expecting.

consider the cams as a good option as sydney kid suggested you might even be able to got the 260 or 264's there are plenty of kw hidden in your current package no need to change turbo. an the 300 klms to 50 litres isnt that bad fuel economy.

sound like a good result now go to the tracka nd run a number :wave:

meggala

If you are really looking into cams..maybe 264 degree is a good setup, because consider the lift and duration should help on your turbo setup. I have not done it, however did talk to someone who have similar setup on TD06..I'm in process of chasing the Tomei cams..264 set (in & ex), the in comes with NVCS should able to look after the mid and low torque...my 0.02

Steve,

Hills Motorsports in Castle Hill did the Plenum - all the origianl idle contol etc is retained. Not sure what it flows, Mark from Hill worked all that out - he told me about volumetric displacement etc etc, (ent over my head a little to be honest. He reckons that the with std plenum one of the cylinders (cant; remember which) gets lower flow than than the others, but with this one, plust the added volume, all cylinders get right and equal amounts of O2.

The throttle body if of a Ford ( can't remember which model) Stock TB won't fit as this one is bigger - But I spose, this could be modified as it is a semi custoem jobby - Mark has the templates for this on all sussed now - It's made out of aircraft grade aluminimum and is quite think...

Standard fuel rail is retained as my injectors were hi flowed to 610cc - so all that stayed in place.

Thanks for all the replys guys - looks like cams is next on the list...

Megs - yep, soon as I run, I'll post the time...

Cheers,

Thanks brendanf, do you have a contact number for Mark, or an e-mail?

Did you manage to find out how much they charge for a highflow of the injectors? Are they doing the job OK? I am not sure wether to go high flow or new injectors, so just checking out he options.

Cheers

Steve

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
    • Welcome!  Can't go wrong with a Stag.
    • Looks good. Nice height.
    • Hey all, a little help from the Stagea hive mind plz.. I'm days away from buying either a 2002 Stagea 250tRS AR-X Four, premium leather, power seats and all the old switches etc that go with it, or a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO, pov pack, cloth seats etc, with coil overs, sports zorst, comes with original zorst and suspension and parts. (I think I've got the models right?) Both are VQ25DET, have 160000kms, both straight no rust both with $2000+ in recent servicing receipts, both ride on aftermarket 18" rims. The Aero has a replaced turbo as well. I like the cool factor of the Aero car but the AR-X has never been modified. Neither have been driven hardly at all in the last 5 years. Any thoughts on which one or does it come down to personal preference? davemoto 
×
×
  • Create New...