Jump to content
SAU Community

Shipping Methods For Larger Items Japan -> Aus


Recommended Posts

hey,

I buy alot of stuff from japan, as i find it so much cheaper than australia. I have a nice person in japan that does the bidding and all the other stuff for me.

Thou he doesnt like buying big items as he says its alot of bs to ship ahaha ;)

I was just after some info on what methods you can uses to ship stuff like Car seats to Australia, Maybe some website with pricers and time taken (i dont mind putting it on a boat if its cheaper than air)

Basicly i wanna do all the work, so the buyer basicly just fills in a form and sends the item to me :D as i really want some racing seats and i find paying $1000 + for 1 seat is a rip off when they sell Good second hand bridge and reacor seats for around $300 in japan

Any info would be very helpful, even if the website issit in english.

Thanks Michael :P:P (cool face :) )

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

the limits for japan post are listed on their english website (I provided this link on a thread earlier this week - and it is easily google-able). Show that to your bidder - seats should fit under their guidelines. Most of us who provide parts don't do anything that can't be shipped via EMS - because your bidder is correct, it's a pain in the arse.

  • 1 month later...
the limits for japan post are listed on their english website (I provided this link on a thread earlier this week - and it is easily google-able).  Show that to your bidder - seats should fit under their guidelines.  Most of us who provide parts don't do anything that can't be shipped via EMS - because your bidder is correct, it's a pain in the arse.

remember australia gets stooged with its max sizes though. 2m total not 3m and 20kg not 30kg.

My mate has a recaro reclinable in his room... no matter how I measure it, its always just over max size which is 3m (this is unpacked and not inluding seat rail) let alone the smaller aus max size which is 2m...

drift007 - did you dismantle the seat or am I missing something?

Edited by Streeter

I must be measuring it incorrectly or need to fold it a certain way.

Ive sent over 300 packages to Aus now. Im pretty sure Ive got the formula right. :D

Ive had the post office call me a number of times about packages being over sized and they were alot smaller than a seat too.

with the spoiler if the other dimensions are small enough it will be ok. eg very thin and not very thick (front to back) a seat is pretty chunky in all directions though.

If you guys can let me know how you are doing it Im all ears as it means more export opportunities :O

by seamail its the same size limits. i used to send bride seats by ems and have sent recaros as well. its a pain in the ass though as you can box them. if you box them theyre over. a pooload of bubblewrap plus big plastic bags them a truckload of sticky tape and you can send them. need to recline the seat completely flat though. seats weigh about 14kgs from memory and the postie that comes to my house to pick the stuff up has a good way of measuring which is faster than measuring every side. first measure the length from bottom to top, then measure around the package. add the 2 together and if its under 3meters your ok.

If they can be laid flat, or near enough - then you shouldn't have issues with dimensions - bubble wrap 'em!

I get exhaust parts (several items, inc piping) sent from australia this way - boxed they would be over the limit, but they just bubble wrap them as is

if you are 'crafty' you could make up a custom box (ie: with no, or little, unused volume) - but I think the wrap should be good enough.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...