Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 183
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Here are the guages installed.

I had to install a switch to turn the gauges off because when driving at night in the country they are too bright.

Interestingly the new boost gauge shows about 2-3 psi less than the stock gauge even though they both come off the plenum but in different spots. The new one has a long length of hose to get to the sender unit, perhaps that is the issue.

post-7957-1133137697.jpg

post-7957-1136866663.jpg

Here is the engine bay pretty much done.

post-7957-1136866692.jpg

All these gauges, what  a waste... get your car TUNED for the track before gauges  :)

So you think we should go to the track with no gauges to tell us how healthy our car is at any point in time? I have been to the track plenty of times and will be again this year. The reason I put that new boost gauge in was because I blew my engine when the AVCR read a much lower boost than was actually in there. The gauge is very much a safety item.

All these gauges, what  a waste... get your car TUNED for the track before gauges  :D

Yep, filled 'er up with petrol so I don't need a fuel gauge any more. :P

:) cheers :)

They seem fine to me unless this variation in boost readings turns out to be the gauge. They are very bright.

You can come and check them out at a cruise or sometime else if you like Lucien. I'm in Ryde.

They seem fine to me unless this variation in boost readings turns out to be the gauge.  They are very bright.

You can come and check them out at a cruise or sometime else if you like Lucien.  I'm in Ryde.

Thanks, I may just do that if I ever have a working car in which to cruise :P

Well I've just been to Bel Garage and this is my dyno sheet.

post-7957-1137039490.jpg

Things of note:

Auto.

255rwkw peak power.

Around 600nm of torque average.

0.9 bar boost from GCG highflow turbo.

Tomei 260deg Poncams.

8.75:1 compression ratio.

3 inch exhaust is fairly quiet compared to many that I've heard.

Stock airbox with panel filter.

Stock AFM.

Pings lightly at around 7k with more boost and only made another 4rwkw at 1 bar anyway.

Tune is a Powerplay ROM tune which hasn't been changed since the rebuild.

Transmission has been rebuilt to handle the power and shifts very crisply.

Massive thanks to Greg from Pro Engines for all his time and effort. He spent hours on the phone to me talking things through so that I could wade through all the information and bullshit out there. He really knows his stuff and is happy to tell you what he knows. I got so many bum-steers from people who wanted my money but also wanted to give me a generic job.

Big thanks also to Duncan who lent me whatever I could use and helped remove the engine. He also helped me on the phone numerous times.

Big thanks to ed who helped me both remove and refit the engine at home and brought his tools too. I can tell you that I am grateful your parents are chinese because fitting a hand between the transmission tunnel and the bell housing is almost impossible for bigger people like me :D. And that jack held everything up for weeks too! Mine droops overnight :)

More thanks to wrxhoon for all the phone and pm advice. The amount of times I heard 'well on the R33/GTR/R32 it's like this' and it was actually helpful was amazing. The R32, R33 and R34 are really quite closely related even if not too many parts are interchangeable.

And not to forget BLK R33 GTST who very kindly helped me get the engine to and from Queanbeyan safely and kennedy for your help lifting the heavy bastard off the ground.

Lastly, thanks to the whole of SAU for your contributions from 'what have I done :blink:' to 'look what I've done now :D'

If anyone wants to remove and refit an engine themselves at home I can tell you that it is a time consuming, frustrating but ultimately very satisfying experience. Just make sure you remember your SAU friends because you will need them.

By stock induction I think they meant no pod or cold air intake.

It has taken me a couple of weeks to notice that there has been a small drop in respnsiveness down low due to the reduced CR. The midrange say from 4500 to 6000 is perhaps better than the graph lets on. I feel like I don't need to rev it as hard to go fast.

Sounds awesome both at idle and when going for it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...