Jump to content
SAU Community

Fuel Guage Reads Less Than Zero!

Stephen Thorpe

By Stephen Thorpe,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Stephen Thorpe Proficient

Stephen Thorpe

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi guys, I have an issue with a Fuel Guage in my R33 GTS-T that reads ZERO (or less than).

I have just changed my fuel pump and didn't touch the sender at all, but I must of damaged the pressure hose on re-installation and it eventually leaked like a fire hose above the white fuel tank plug. This took quite a few kays to start leaking, so therefore a lot of fuel was around the electrical wiring when I got back to the top of the tank.

Anyway, I fixed the hose real easy (by cutting the damage of the end) but now the guage reads empty. The only thing that I can think of is that the residual fuel which accumulated in the depression where the wiring plugs connect may have caused a short.

As I am led to believe that there isn't a fuse attached to the fuel sender and the guage, is there anyway to rectify this issue? What have I blown considering the guage is stuck at the completely empty position with either a half or a full tank of fuel?

Any help would be very appreciative.

Regards

Stephen

Edited by Stephen Thorpe
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96270-fuel-guage-reads-less-than-zero/
Share on other sites
Stephen Thorpe Proficient

Stephen Thorpe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Please guys, does anyone know anything that may help?

I have earthed Grey with Red trace wire out and guage deflects towards full on instrument panel!

I have sprayed all wires with contact cleaner, outside the tank but still nothing!

I need to use some fuel before I re-open tank and check inside connections, I am hoping I didn't seat the connection on the underside of cap and it has fallen off!

Will a bad connection (no earth or power) to guage cause guage to default to completely empty?

Stephen

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • R32 TT
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By R32 TT · Posted

      Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • joshuaho96
      Coolant leak?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...