Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There have been a number of different hardware solutions for interfacing with the Consult port on Skylines. There are some excellent Group Buys with handsets and interfaces for lap tops. There are also number of downloadable software options around, some free, some with small fees. The idea of this thread is to have an ongoing discussion about what software and hardware people are using how they are finding it, what sort of benefits they are getting and maybe even some tricks and tips that we can share.

So please feel free to drop your thoughts into a post.

>_< cheers :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96708-consult-interfaces-software/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 114
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I will kick it off, I have a Newkleer DIY kit interface (see Group Buy section) that I use with my lap top. The kit was easy to build, but the USB to com port link was a bit tricky to get working.

I am using the Calumsult software, free download via a link in the Group Buy. I find it OK, the only complain is that it is imperial measuremts (eg; MPH) which can be off puting at first. The lambda sensor readings (O2) are not calibrated (volts only shown) so I will have to make up a conversion table.

This is a grab of the most common screen I use;

Picture to go in here;

I haven't done very much logging yet, but I will start that tonight and run it for a few days and see what it reveals. I have already detected a spark plug missfiring by the sometimes eratic lambda readings, this is very noticeable at idle. When it should really be stable running closed loop.

Sample log to go in here;

That's enough for this post.

>_< cheers :(

I've found the 'telesis' usb-serial adaptor ($45 at Harris technology)

worked perfectly with NewKleers consult unit.. Had no issues using it to interface with either of my 2 laptops (old and a new one) if that helps anyone >_<

The usb-serial adaptor worked perfectly with the 3-4 main software programs..

Also a little tip to getting the usb adaptor in the right direction is to make sure you change the com port of the usb-adaptor to one of the com ports not in use between 1-4, as thats what most of the software applications can only use/detect.

I have the plms cable and nissan consult (the $25 one) and I can do some sreen shots if you wish. Can't datalogit as not using stock ecu. I found this consult the best out of the ones I tried. I tried free conzult, the 300zx one and another free consult one. Nissan Datascan is the one I paid for (and can do screen captures if you want)

I've found the 'telesis' usb-serial adaptor ($45 at Harris technology)

worked perfectly with NewKleers consult unit.. Had no issues using it to interface with either of my 2 laptops (old and a new one) if that helps anyone :O

The usb-serial adaptor worked perfectly with the 3-4 main software programs..

Also a little tip to getting the usb adaptor in the right direction is to make sure you change the com port of the usb-adaptor to one of the com ports not in use between 1-4, as thats what most of the software applications can only use/detect.

Ports 1 to 4 were used on my laptop, that was the problem. so it took me a bit of fiddling to get it moved to port 5 in the Calumsult. Once I did that it worked fine.

:D cheers :)

Maybe if you guys can list which model this applies to?

Like does it apply to RB20/25 & 26 inclusive? Or are there separate ones for each ECU type etc.

Could become a sticky as this is some good information for those inclinded

Maybe if you guys can list which model this applies to?

Like does it apply to RB20/25 & 26 inclusive? Or are there separate ones for each ECU type etc.

Could become a sticky as this is some good information for those inclinded

The Consult port and its matching terminal in the Nissan Dealer service department, has been around for many years on all models of Nissan. Certainly all modesl of R32/33/34 Skylines and Stageas have Consult ports. The common interfaces/handsets work on all the models that I have tried.

:O cheers :D

I have used the PLMS consult cable with datascan and found it to be very useful, Untill I tried to use it on a cefiro. and being pre 1989 the plug was different and i could not use it.

Does anyone know of a conbroad minded person cable that will work with

Cefiro's, Glorias, cedrics, cimas, leapords ect ect.

My knowlege in this area is very limited so any help would be greatly appreciated.

I'd be intersted to know if anyone has wired a consult plug into a loom.

I could see this being useful for conversions were the newer engine in and older car loose's out.

I have found this on the net previously. Not sure how accurate it is.

Just for those doing swaps and want the CONSULT port (Techtom plugs into CONSULT port) to be functional on s14:

on the F3 Plug (KA):

#22 G - Transmit

#23 G/W- Clock

#38 G/B- Recieve

For Techtom only these three wires are needed. On SR and RB there is a fourth wire "check signal" that is not needed for Techtom to operate.

On RB:

#34 Y- transmit

#38 Y/R- clock

#39 BR/Y- recieve

Has anyone also had success downloading an ECU Rom file(bin) using the consult ??

I have tried it using nissandatascan on R32's and it seems to sit there and do nothing.

it works all rb20, rb25 (r33 only), doesnt work on er34 as they have oBD version II which the consult software / plug is different as far as I know. this should work on gtr32 and gtr33 fine with stock ecu. i have cable and software if anyone wants to borrow / test . also works on most nissans from 89 to 98 ish. works on pulsar, silva, 200sx etc

Has anybody tried the full version of Datascan? and what did they think?

Calumsult requires win2k and my old laptop only runs win98 unfortunately.

I got ConzultFree working, but obviously its very limited... and its a bit expensive for the full version.

i had the full version of datascan, i dont think it was anything special.. the other 3 programs available for free were just as good.

That 300zx program i cant remember what its called, but it was HEEAAAPPS expensive, that looked realy cool though :D

Has anybody tried the full version of Datascan?    and what did they think?

Calumsult requires win2k and my old laptop only runs win98 unfortunately.

I got ConzultFree working, but obviously its very limited... and its a bit expensive for the full version.

I built my own usb consult cable. (being a tech has advantages at times :) )

I've used conzult free version and I have used the datascan and I find the data scan to be the best for my application.

Though I would love to get my hands on the full conzult software.

I haven't really done much with the datalogging yet just mainly used it for its map tracing etc.

the interfaces should work on any car with the 14 pin grey consult connector. unfortunately this doesnt include A31, S13/w CA18, and some of the other nissan models that started around 88 (cima/gloria/etc). it works on the R34 also (someone said it didnt?). only works on r32's built oct or nov onwards i think? definitely the early ones it didnt work on (again, if it has the 14 pin plug it should work).

some consult interfaces wont work on all models (eg soem have problems with r34), but the kit i made shouldnt have any problems (and recent plms ones should work too)

ive recently started working back on my consult app (pocket pc version in the works too), and have got serial number, fault codes, sensors done, still with active tests and rom dumping to go. unfortunately it doesnt look that "pretty" so far

any suggestions on what parts of different programs everyone finds useful, how gauges should look, and so on would be good - i basically have no real artistic ability at all so making things look pretty isnt one of my strong points :)

Edited by NewKleer

I did a bit of logging last night and the first thing I noticed was the lambda sensor readings where all over the place. I have never played with a standard lambda sensor before, all of my experience is with F&W ones.

After it warmed up the idle lambda readings where around 0.2V, as you would expect for closed loop running. But after a good thrash it would never drop back to there, it stayed at 0.7V, which is very rich. This a new lambda sensor, so I know it isn't that.

Anyone else had that experience?

:( cheers :P

could u post my logs?

my experience is that with a properly operating o2 sensor, eventually at idle, and cruise it will get into the swinging pattern of going to like 0.1v->0.9v and back continuously (as it should, given theyre pretty much only a "more than 14.7:1" and "less than 14.7:1" switch (hence the lean/rich switch available by consult - im guessing the ecu only checks whether its more/less than 0.5v and thats it.

calumsult graphing is very good at showing the o2 sensor operating

after a good rev, often the o2 sensor will stay rich (i think thats > 0.5v?) for a while until things stabilise, normally say 10s then it goes back to swinging (assuming your in closed loop mode - cruise/idle).

Edited by NewKleer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...