Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmmm,

well let me add my 2c.

Coming from Germany I can tell you it is Way too easy to get your licence in Australia. 

Over there you do Freeway driving, emergency braking, wet weather, night time, all road surfaces and general maintenance and mechanics of a car over at least a years worth of lessons.  It's an involved (and expensive) process but means that you actually have a clue about how to drive (you'd want to with the Autobahns and all ;-)

So the biggest problem is not the cars but the training.  Add to that the fact that Australian roads are in a pathetic state of repair and the fact that cars do not need an annual road worthy check over here and you get a fairly good reason why things are the way they are.

If you fix these issues you won't need to limit the cars.  That is just a 'knee jerk' reaction because everything else is too complex for the simple minds in Spring Street (or Canberra for that fact)

As an aside I am now in my late 30's and only now feel confident enough to consider buying a GT-R  ;-)

Exactly the same with the UK except the motorways are supposed to be limited :(

Cost me a small fortune to learn but did all of the above include snow driving etc. I was shocked when I went through the learning with my g/f here how easy it was and how she was forewarned of what they would be assessing on.

Uk has around the 40% first time pass rate. I passed 3rd time and paid around $1500 to learn. I had a bonus lesson after on motorways as you are not allowed on them when learning.

Good post B)

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hmmm,

well let me add my 2c.

Coming from Germany I can tell you it is Way too easy to get your licence in Australia. 

Over there you do Freeway driving, emergency braking, wet weather, night time, all road surfaces and general maintenance and mechanics of a car over at least a years worth of lessons.  It's an involved (and expensive) process but means that you actually have a clue about how to drive (you'd want to with the Autobahns and all ;-)

So the biggest problem is not the cars but the training.  Add to that the fact that Australian roads are in a pathetic state of repair and the fact that cars do not need an annual road worthy check over here and you get a fairly good reason why things are the way they are.

If you fix these issues you won't need to limit the cars.  That is just a 'knee jerk' reaction because everything else is too complex for the simple minds in Spring Street (or Canberra for that fact)

As an aside I am now in my late 30's and only now feel confident enough to consider buying a GT-R  ;-)

good post. :P

Hmmm,

well let me add my 2c.

Coming from Germany I can tell you it is Way too easy to get your licence in Australia. 

Over there you do Freeway driving, emergency braking, wet weather, night time, all road surfaces and general maintenance and mechanics of a car over at least a years worth of lessons.  It's an involved (and expensive) process but means that you actually have a clue about how to drive (you'd want to with the Autobahns and all ;-)

So the biggest problem is not the cars but the training.  Add to that the fact that Australian roads are in a pathetic state of repair and the fact that cars do not need an annual road worthy check over here and you get a fairly good reason why things are the way they are.

If you fix these issues you won't need to limit the cars.  That is just a 'knee jerk' reaction because everything else is too complex for the simple minds in Spring Street (or Canberra for that fact)

As an aside I am now in my late 30's and only now feel confident enough to consider buying a GT-R  ;-)

im quoting it again coz its a great post. you can disagree with it, provide better training and better roads and there would be less death of newer drivers.

thos one thing for a new driver is a little bit ofpower to get out of tight situations, such as crawling out from a blind corner you have the acceleration there if you need it. i know in a situation like that i would have no hope in a car like my mums pulsar...

but the is the question why you need so mch power when you have only driven by yourself for 6 months... theres a guy on his Ps with an LS1 commie, straight out illegal on Ps, then he threw a supercharger on the side of it. its making 380+kw at the rears. now tell me why a p-plater needs that?

This has not even been proposed!!!! I have a 100% reliable and informed contact in the highest level of the vic government, trust me when i saw it is not even being considered. However hoon laws are coming in, pretty much 3 strikes and you loose your ride for good. (stuff such as burnouts, street racing, exceeding speed limit by 45k+) Also some other little gay laws that cops can shaft us with, nothing particularly new just new names of laws for the same stuff with harsher penalties.

Driver training.

Not revenue raising.

Bracks can go to hell. They put all these BS laws, rules and regulations in and what happens? The road toll stays the same or goes up. The more money the Vic govt. has made the more people have died.

They'll never bring up the 10 year long study that found lowering speed limits caused MORE fatalities either. Who the hell voted for these morons anyway?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...