Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heya, first post so go easy. im lookin at buying an R32 GTR in the next couple of months to replace my waste of money VS commdore.

So im lookin at buying a "stock" 32 GTR and would like to know if anyone knows any particualar pit-falls or things i should watch for when tryin to buy one? have they got any specific electrical or mechanic problems or tell-tales of weather they have been thrashed (much)?

i know the basics about cars so i know to looks for the obvious, turbo smoke and all that but is there any small details that tell alot about them? one other thing is, is there any major advantage to buying a later R32 to an early one? was there any major revisions in anything between years?

if anyone can help me out it would be appreciated. thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97227-traps-in-buying-a-r32-gtr-help/
Share on other sites

check to make sure that the car isnt a half cut welded up to the back half of the car - look underneath at the chasis and the chasis rails for welds.

The lower the kms the better - but they sometimes can be wound back.

Rust - quater pannels and kick pannels near the doors and wheel arches could have rust spots.

Get a compression test done on the motor - i cant remember what the average pressure should be on all cylinders. It varies with the amount of kms the car has done. All 6 cylinders should be roughly the same pressure - there will be some difference but there should be heaps.

Check out these dudes: http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/

and

http://www.justjap.com/

Give them a call or drop in and see them depending on your location.

Good luck!

and budget for an engine rebuild just incase.

true, I found mine local to me with around $8000 of receipts for repairs/maintenace and a full rebuild. Ask to view receipts.

Other expenses:

Stamp Duty (mine was $1000)

New Tyres (looking at ~$800 for 17")

Rego (if its due)

Insurance ($2200+ for full comp, for under 25's)

you can get them as cheap as ~$16,000 now, but they are that price for a reason :D

Thanks heaps for that, talked to just cars, they want 1500 for insurance.... and i gotta have some 2.0 imobiliser fitted or somthing, i dunno. ahh well im not rushing into it gonna find one that is worth buying. if searching in aus fails, any of u guys know of a good import comany? im in victoria. a mate gave me imports101.com.au but they are in WA and obviously i dont know if they are a respectable company or what.

LOL

dude you can get it complied in any state in australia!!

Ummm, pitfalls with 32 gtrs

they are old. Most of em are junk. Find a good one locally, but get the engine inspected (most important) - leakdown + compression test. Oil pump failure is common with the crank collar design on the early 32's. Check for rust anywhere and everywhere. Check the gearbox is okay 4th and 5th gear synchros. Check the turbos are okay (if they are stock and running 1 bar, they will most likely be close to dead).

Basically, if you buy an early 32 for cheap, you will need to replace the engine, the front clutch packs in the diff may be gone, the gearbox will be f**ked, shocks + suspension, etc.

Ideally spend a bit more and get a better example. it will be cheaper in the long run. Alternatively, buy a good 33. they are not too much dearer :D

Most of em are junk.

I disagree Tommy. Most of em are 'project cars'. :D

Oil pump failure is common with the crank collar design on the early 32's.

That's one of the most common causes of early RB26 failure.

Alternatively, buy a good 33. they are not too much dearer :)

Do R33's have similar problems? ie. you get what you pay for?

And listen to PHATR32, his advice is sound. :(

Well I can only go from what ive seen.

I bought a good 33 gtr. It didnt cost me much more than some of those 89 gtr's

Ive had it for a year, and ive had no problems (touch wood).

Oil pump failure is not an issue. The gearbox is a bit better (i think), the attessa system (on the vspec) is better, the electrics are better, the car is newer.

BUT if you buy a shit one, it wont be any better than a shit 32. If I could EVER get my hands on a vspec 2 32, i would prefer that. provided that it was immaculate. the biggest problem is that some of these sell for 2million yen. others fetch closer to 3 million yen. and for a 11 year old car, thats ridiculous

:D

Dunno ay :) I'm pretty sure it is cheaper in Bris. Maybe due to the amount of workshops there? ;) Mine is up there at the moment being complied...

Oh and if your looking at importing shoot an email to J Spec Imports, couldnt recommend them more :)

Cheers,

Chris

one of the biggest trap is tricking your self into thinking "im only gonna mod it a little"

when i got mine, i thought, "ill paint the engine covers" then i though "ill paint the top of the engine bay" now it looks like this..................

full engine bay, underbody and subframe respray........

post-11604-1133838745.jpg

HaHa yeah, ahh well yeah ill be lookin over all that sorta stuff, ive only got a bout 20 to spend on the car itself, so shouldnt get one thats in to bad nick, A guy that i work with mentioned hes seen a few GTST4's eith the 26DETT in them and sold as gtrs with gtr kits on them? any truth to that all or anyone heard it before?

is there any way u can tell it is a genuine GTR using say. the VIN no. or somthing? does one of the digits tell u if its a GTS, GTS-T, GTR Spec car ect...?

Well the original VIN will have BNR32- as the first few letters if it is a real GTR.

ps: Buy Danny's car. It's worth way more than the asking price and you won't have any problems with it. In my opinion, there is no such thing as an under $20,000 GTR. You'll either pay up front for a nice one or within 12months to fix all the stuff wrong with it.

I urge you to revise your budget or look at a GTS4 with RB26 instead. :) I don't mean to sound like a wanker, but I'd hate for you to be one of those poor dudes that buys his dream car on the cheap but then realises he can't afford to keep it and has to sell it at a loss. :D

danny's car? 20 is only an estimate, i can go a little over that cause ive saved for this for ages. dont worry if i didnt think i could keep it i wouldnt be buying it.

yeah BNR32 is the part of the VIN telling u the model code that is an R32, but it dosnt tell u if its a GTR spec? i know that i dont have to worry bout it that much, but just got me thinkin. no biggy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, Making some space/cleaning up. A whole heap of random OEM R33 GTR parts and other random bits and bobs. I will update this thread as I go. Parts are located in Moorebank NSW 2170. Pickup preferred but will post at buyers expense. Prices are negotiable. If they don’t sell it will go in the bin. Item 1: BOV return pipe. $40 Item 2: RB26 cam gears. $20 Item 3: R33 GTR torque split, oil temp, boost centre gauge. $100 Item 4: RB26 fuel rail x 2. $20 each Item 5: RB26 Recirc valves. $50 Item 6: OEM upper front arms. $20 Item 7: Royal Purple Max Gear 75w-140 1 quart/946 ml x 5. $50 each or 5 for $200. Item 8: OS Giken 80w-250 diff oil 1 litre. $25 Item 9 Eibach springs. ers-11-140-60-0140. $100 https://www.streetfx.com.au/eib140-60-0060-eibach-ers-140mm-length-x-60mm-id-coil-over-spring?_ga_campaignid=22235933977&_ga_adgroupid=180146800292&_ga_keyword=&_ga_device=m&_ga_target=pla-295238231169&_ga_locint=&_ga_locphy=9071723&_ga_matchtype=&_ga_network=g&_ga_device=m&_ga_placement=&_gcl_id=CjwKCAjwlt7GBhAvEiwAKal0cvkVE_hstv24cDiaICsIk1oznH9zAoJf3By6vR3Tpe7jmByqM6JFHBoCZYAQAvD_BwE&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22235933977&gbraid=0AAAAADPiTbo1xAuvnjIWWYnezivf-BUSY&gclid=CjwKCAjwlt7GBhAvEiwAKal0cvkVE_hstv24cDiaICsIk1oznH9zAoJf3By6vR3Tpe7jmByqM6JFHBoCZYAQAvD_BwE    
    • That's kind of what I was getting at saying you'd be here soon regarding length etc being able to add additional restriction.  My assumption (possible donkeys of you and mption) is that the length of hose to an oil cooler, and back, isn't going to be that huge of a loss. Typically you're talking about 1.5m of total length. And so far everyone in our world hasn't had issues with oil not being able to get to a cooler and back, it's more been, how the heck do we get the oil out of the head and back down to the bottom? I'd nearly hazard a guess the biggest issue people have with oil cooling and oil supply, is being able to get the heat out at the cooler itself (not enough air flow, too small of a cooler etc) Also, when people mount them wrong and make really awesome air traps so they've dramatically diminished the cooling capacity.
    • I will rebutt this and the preceding point from Dose....but without doing any calcs to demonstrate anything and without knowing that I am right or wrong. But... The flow capacity of a fluid transfer system is not limited by the smallest orifice or section of conduit in that system, unless it is drastically smaller than the rest of the system. OK, I use the word drastically perhaps with too much emphasis, but let's drill down on what I really mean. The flow capacity of the system is the result of the sum of the restrictions of the entire system. So, to make an extreme example, if you have a network with 3" pipe everywhere (and let's say a total length of only a few metres) and that 12mm ID restriction of the oil filter connection being the obvious restriction, then for any given amount of pressure available, the vast majority of all the pressure drop in the system is going to occur in the 12mm restriction. But.... increase the length of the 3" pipeline to, say 1000m, and suddenly the pipe pressure loss will likely add up to either be in the same order of magnitude, possibly even exceeding that of the 12mm restriction. Now the 12mm restriction starts to matter less. Translate this to the actual engine, actual oil cooler hose sizing, etc etc, and perhaps: The pressure loss caused by flowing through the narrow section (being the 12mm oil filter port, and perhaps any internal engine oil flow pathways associated with it) is a certain number. The pressure loss through, say, -12 hoses out to the cooler and back is negligible, but The pressure loss through -10 hoses out to the cooler, at the exact same length as the above, starts to become a decent fraction of the loss through the 12mm stuff at the filter port. Maybe even it starts to exceed it. I could actually do these calcs if I knew 1) how much oil was actually flowing in the line, 2) gave enough of a f**k to do things that I hate doing for work, voluntarily for a hypothetical discussion. Anyway - I reiterate. It's not the narrowest port that necessarily determines how much it can all flow. It is the sum. A long enough length of seemingly fat enough pipe can still cause more loss than a semmingly dominant small bore restriction.
    • To pick up what Dose is putting down. Not a lot of point running a huge hose if the motor is still restricted to the smaller size... It's only capable of flowing so much at that point...   *Waits for GTSBoy to come in and bring in the technicalities of length of pipe, and additional restriction from wall friction etc etc*
    • Hooley Dooley these things have some history! If i sell them they will need a certificate of providence to prove they have been in the hands of verified RB20 royalty! They have been stored in a plastic tub, away from sunlight and moisture. They are in mint condition. And they will stay that way, as i have sprung the money for a set of shockworks coilovers. I'm just working on getting them in at the moment, after rebushing the rear of the car, and while the subframe was out i welded in the GKtech reinforcement bracing as well.  They will get a workout at Ararat King of The Hill in November. I ran 48s on the short course there a few months ago, and i am hoping with new bushes and shocks in the rear i can launch a bit harder. There was a fair bit of axle tramp when i tried too hard off the line. a few of the corners had dips mid way which also made the car feel a bit unsettled, hopefully this will help there too.   
×
×
  • Create New...