Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well a few pics can be found here

and basic specs are:

1984 HR30 Paul Newman Version

Bog stock L20ET

160,XXX Km's

Manual

Power Windows, Mirros & Steering

Cruise Control

Upgraded Stero (head unit, 6inch splits alround, amp, small sub)

Cheers.

i wouldnt mind knowing what they're worth either....

i hate to say it but 6-7000 would be a good price, expect less, DRs 7-8000, its all in how much they are wiling to pay..

i believe the dr30 is worth more than the hr31, and they will hold there value longer..

Edited by rsx84

You gotta find an ENTHUSIAST that wants it for it's nostalgic rarety value. I was offered $10,000 for mine about 12 months ago, but told him to go away, he didn't have enough money, but your going to get your best price when it's not for sale.

When it's FOR SALE people wont pay what it's worth because of you needing to get rid of it, but remember when you do to let me know where it goes so I can upgrade my register.

Cheers,

Dennis

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
we can do it here eh.

yeah ebay japan or something may be a good idea

I think ebay is a great thing for selling most things but for cars I am not so sure. Before I sold the PNV to Zapata I put it on ebay and "sold" it. However the "buyer" was a kid who had no money and used a school email account to register on ebay. Negative feedback is not enough of a sanction to stop some fools bidding and wasting your time. Although it is a binding contract, trying to enforce it on someone with no money is obviously an issue.

The one good thing about ebay is that it gives you the opportunity to cheaply advertise the car with heaps of photos and a long description.

As for the value of a PNV, as with all cars at the moment you will struggle to get a reasonable price. Hell you can get a GTR for less than 20 grand now, R32 GTS-T's can be had for less then 10 grand and R33 GTS-T's are rapidly approaching that price for an early stock one. A PNV is still a 1983 leaded petrol car with hardly scintillating performance and spares are not available at your local Autobarn. As PNV's dont have the racing heritage the DR30's have in this country they will never be in the same price range, despite their rarity.

As for the value of a PNV, as with all cars at the moment you will struggle to get a reasonable price. Hell you can get a GTR for less than 20 grand now, R32 GTS-T's can be had for less then 10 grand and R33 GTS-T's are rapidly approaching that price for an early stock one. A PNV is still a 1983 leaded petrol car with hardly scintillating performance and spares are not available at your local Autobarn. As PNV's dont have the racing heritage the DR30's have in this country they will never be in the same price range, despite their rarity.

that's probably about right. The DR30 is the most significant model in Aus, most performance oreiented, and most desireable because of their Japanese street cred. I think the later is more relevant to most people who buy them in here.

I've been trying to sell my HR30 for a little while and had no idea how much to put on it, so I started high at $7000 and dropped it to $5500 the second time I advertised it, and there's still no interest in it. I think I'll just hang onto it. It looks great, drives well, and I've always liked them since I was a kid and saw one parked at the local shopping centre and wondered what it was... So it's probably worth more to me than what I'd get for it (in terms of how much I like it, not how much I've spent). As ghostrider said, they're only really worth anything to an enthusiast who particularly likes/wants a HR30.

And despite the rarity of PNV's, they don't seem to be highly sought after mainly because they aren't particularly common knowledge - I've never heard of them before I found this site, and I've always been into Datsuns. Of course, if you can find the right sucker - sorry, buyer - that all changes. :O Chances are the people who respond to an ad for a HR30 PNV, won't even know what those last initials stand for.

The question inevitably arises... why paul newman?

Just for the ill informed.

Paul Newman has been racing Nissan/Datsun cars for a long time, like a very long time before entering into The Newman Haas Champ Car/Indy Car Team.

He won the USGTCC in a Bob Sharp Sponsored 280ZX Turbo, he also campaigned an R30 derivative (see my avatar) very successfully for a while and hence he was invited by Nissan for the signature series of the Limited Edition HR30 Skyline. I

It was a luxury package vehicle, not a performance package as the DR was and is and will probably be the rarest of all Skylines.

Only 2000 were made in various forms and only 5 ever made it downunder to Australia. Some others made it to NZ the land of the long white cloud, but numbers, nobody is sure of.

For my money, my car will never be sold and I would probably buy Zeb's only that I'm considering the purchase of a new truck.

It was a luxury package vehicle, not a performance package as the DR was and is and will probably be the rarest of all Skylines.

.

I think people who own some of the Nismo special & NUR spec Skyline GTR which were only made in the low 100's as opposed to 1000's may disagree about the rarity issue. I also thought (and I will stand corrected if I am wrong) that there were 5000 PNV's made?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...