Jump to content
SAU Community

Battery died so jump started, now car won't idle... PLEASE HELP!

MicK51

By MicK51,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

MicK51 Community Regular

MicK51

Posted
Posted

i left my parkers on all day and the car wouldn't even turn over when i came back to it after work. We tried clutch starting it but there was just no spark so we waited for the jumper cables to arrive. Jump started it from the pics in the manual (it was all in japanese :P ) car started all right but blew HEAPS of smoke for a bit, idled ok then but as soon as i got going the smoke went away and so did the idle!

car won't even try and idle, just dies straight away. The engine warning light flashes at me whilst i'm driving but i can't see any pattern to it :)

other than that it revs fine, anyone got any suggestions?

hippy Grand Master

hippy

Posted
Posted

maybe the battery is farked ... i've done this to my car a few times ... the computer gets reset ... only difference is that i connected the jumpers directly to the battery at the back ...

also maybe the computer is farked??

run some diagnotics

FIL Enthusiast

FIL

Posted
Posted

you can jump start anything with the right gear....

i prefer to do it with a battery thats not connected to a car... (seeing as i sell em for a living, i usually have one lying around :-) )

cables with inbuilt surge protectors help also.... tho i beleive the major risk is actually to the donor car rather than the one being jumped....

what may have happened is that the ECU has reset... not sure if the 'line ECU's have this issue, but i have swapped batteries in a few daewoo's (the delco controlled ones (ie. camira engine)) and seen them refuse to idle until you run the car at about 3000 rpm for a couple of minutes, and the ECU remembers how to idle...

Mark Rising Star

Mark

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by hippy

i've jumped started my car ... i got an r33gtst ... with previous model camry ... computer got reset but there was nothing else wrong ... i wouldn't jump start it with older cars though ...

What difference does the age of the jumpER have to do with the jumpEE?

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

You will probably need a new battery (how old is the current 1?).

If you kill the battery, then jump start the car, the ECU detects that you are throwing lots of amps at the battery (to recharge it). This is an error condition that cause the ECU to totally mess with all the fueling / ignition parameters.

Often, stopping and re-starting the engine can make the condition go away, but in the longrun, the only solution is a new battery.

Guest FlyGuy

Guest FlyGuy

Posted
Posted

Voltage spikes or maybe even amp spikes as you call them, isn't this why cars have fuses? Don't fuses stop damage, to say the ECU is not working just because you jump standard a car doesn't make a lot of sense to me...

My car got a flat battery once, and when its flat the car doesn't idle at all. If the battery is stuffed, get a new one...

FIL Enthusiast

FIL

Posted
Posted

fuses don't blow immediately.... they heat up when the current passing through them increases past their rated range... when they heat up enough, they melt....

ecu's are a particularly sensitive bit of electronics.... so i guess they could go before a fuse...

"My car got a flat battery once, and when its flat the car doesn't idle at all. If the battery is stuffed, get a new one..."

Well said... call the RAC... i get bored of working on commodores and corolla's all day.... :-)

hippy Grand Master

hippy

Posted
Posted

yeah good explanation fil .. i work with micro controllers all day long so im pretty sure its a logical thing that could easily happen .. if the current or voltage goes over the allowed tolerance then sometimes the chips inside the computer ... seems that nissans like to use st micro brand of micro controller ... depending on wha the fuses are rated at and the kind of chips that the computer uses ... then its something which is quite possible to happen ...

51jay Mentor

51jay

Posted
Posted

Car is fine now Rule no 1......any probs with idle or rough running....check for vacuum leak first, then sludged up idle control or throttle sensor. Corrected both....no more problem :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Cheapest Jaycar one is only $65.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Probably best way would be using a proper dB / SPL meter lol Buy one and ship it from state to state to have a consistent test device lololol  
    • Duncan
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Duncan · Posted

      Not electric car good of course, it's still just a crappy old ICE
    • Duncan
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah, but the good news is that can all be tuned out...the V37 has excellent throttle response now, and with the tiny factory turbos is pretty quick without lag
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I did change bodyshops. The most recent place was very fast. I think the trick is to have smaller, simpler jobs. A front end repaint and some (extensive) sideskirt and fender stuff is a 'small cash' job for them. It was expensive but 'worth' it purely cause: 1) They did everything great 2) They did everything fast Get what you pay for maybe? Pictured: Very stock looking car from my very old phone. I did realise that oncoming traffic would probably be like "Oh look at this guy, commuting around in a GTR!" (until they see the side profile). This is the sad state of my fender liners and front fitment with my current stock GTR sized wheels (18x9 +30) This is how the rear sits with a 25mm spacer. I say 25mm because it's actually a 20mm spacer sitting on the studs which are ~30-31mm, and the wheels have a ~5mm cutout. So... this is very not safe to drive. This is the other side.. .with a 22mm spacer. Yes, the studs are ~27mm. Yes they're different both sides. I spent a fair amount of time measuring. This was the old pod setup behind the box in the past. Old vs New Pod she tells you not to worry about:   Turns out I measured this pod filter pretty damn accurately which I was chuffed about. I went for a ~3hr drive for 'testing' reasons up into Healseville hills. Believe it or not, the induction noise is the same between small and large pod. I guess it has more to do whether a pod is *present* or not, and the diameter of the pipe. It does sound very decent in cabin though (and extremely 'smooth') - Though behind the car the exhaust noise is nonexistent now. So uh, it's all for the driver. I'm confident it has to be quieter than @Dose Pipe Sutututu's car. I should test it. Is there a way to do it with an app or something we can both agree on? (we are both very old men now competing for quietest car) I've texted Trent at Chequered to book in to see some before/after. I can now twist the pod entirely out of the engine bay on the dyno to really rule in/out any intake restrictions. And/or remove the pipe entirely which I will probably do for testing reasons. The logs show *maybe* a difference in ambient KPA vs Intake KPA at wot. But I'm talking the difference to -3/4 before to maybe -2/3 now. The tune is not wildly out or even changed at all. The only takeaway I have is the car is on 17% ethanol as it's still got the fuel from the dyno in it. It's plausible that that tune would have resulted in the car erring on the side of being too rich (it was) and right now it seems to be bang on perfect or within -0.5% either side of target. I was tempted to take it to a Drag day to see what MPH it would trap (and tune the car) but then I wouldn't have a number and a pretty line. I may do that after I re-hit the dyno, purely to go to LS1tech and shout about how their dynos are all very inaccurate while my low HP car traps the same MPH as cars with the same setup in the US, who make 375RWKW (supposedly). It was safe to say Mr Mamo was not really happy with me posting the results yet. So I owe it to at least try the intake thing for my own sake and not besmirch people who want to buy a similar USA heads and cam setup and get disgusted that they make lower HP than simple bolt-ons which can be up to the "330rwkw+" kw region over there - Which here equates to about 270kw. (and runs the same 115-118mph)
×
×
  • Create New...