Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have have a fairly stock rb20det, basically all it has is a walbro fuel pump, 450x300x78 fmic, stock turbo, pod, boost tap, 3.5 exhaust with stock cat(yeh i know lol im too lazy to get the f**r off* otherwise id have a new one on by now, service it every 5000km and it runs like a dream, no probs cept vacuum pipes splitting on me all the time, running turbo on 14psi never pings, runs smooth as a mother! had a few probs when my spark plugs got to old was misfiring a bit, but now ive accidently ran stock turbo on 20psi! and i didnt notice for like 3 days cause my brother mainly drives it, put it back down to 14 psi still fine! runs like a dream

any way! so had everything checked out and the engine is top notch, so im just wandering what should i do next, i have a high flowed r32 turbo sitting in my wardrobe i was thinking about installing it, i was just wandering.. i know the stock turbo's are watercooled correct? should i put in a oil catch can and oil cooler?

also was thinking about bigger valve springs and cams, and no i dont have an ecu

also any othe rsuggestions on what i should do on my tight arse budget! ive managed not to spend over 1000 so far, got her completely stock :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97880-rb20-help-turbo/
Share on other sites

Stage one cam 256 deg 8.5 mm lift (tomei) would help no mater the turbo but you wouldn't need to change the valve springs for this cam.

If you wanted to intall the high flowed rb20 turbo the cam would be only benificial but not a necessity.

In the end you will still need a remap/tune. Regardless of the turbo you go with.

A stock r32 ecu is fairly easy to remap for someone in the know.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97880-rb20-help-turbo/#findComment-1779521
Share on other sites

OK where did you hear that?

A remap is permanant.

I'm running a much larger turbo,FMIC, 550cc RX7 injectors and a Z32 afm all on a stock ecu I remapped well over 12 months ago.

An ecu will self learn to a point but it has a base map to start from which is what people change in a remap.

Self learn is mainly ignition timing in a selected part of the map and some minor fueling in the closed loop area of the map. Other than that it will run what is is programmed/remapped to.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97880-rb20-help-turbo/#findComment-1779535
Share on other sites

Oil catch can is a good idea. Though a healthy RB20DET breaths sfa. :)

I only have one because my olod motor was so stuffed. I could fill it up in one night. :P

As for an oil cooler I dunno. Never had one and never seen any used. Probly only nesaccerrywhen racing I guess.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97880-rb20-help-turbo/#findComment-1780959
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...