Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was just wondering what do people think would be better bang per buck setup

buy some R34 N1 turbos (steel wheeled and ball bearing core)

or just rebuild my stockers (R32 GTR) rebuild them with steel exhaust wheel, change to ball bearing core (if possible) and hi-flow them or just put slightly bigger compressor wheel in them

i know 34 N1's are about $2500-$3000 second hand and im guessin $1200-$1500 per turbo would be enough to rebuild them to my wanted specs

Now keep in mind im not chasing BIG power just want good response and prob at most 300rwkw

is this possible(rebuild to specs)?? or even a good idea??

wont be doing this for a little bit just wondering which is the best path

Thanks in advance

RellikZephyr

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97908-rebuild-turbo-question/
Share on other sites

my vote is go for the 34 N1s. they are a great turbo and a bit better than the older N1s. the specs of the GT-SS are pretty much identical to the N1s only difference is the N1s are a little cheaper.

i did search!!!!!!

and only ones i found were no where near the 3K delivered mark

so  if you know of the shops selling them for that    do tell

RellikZephyr

Give Tarek (RACESPEC) a yell or try his website (http://www.racespec.com.au/). I got my turbos from him at a good price. Have a look in the for sale section under businesses selling stuff. Dont know what Garrett availability is like presently, however.

OK, lot of crap here :) GT-SS are available as single turbos, but obviously you should buy the GT-R kit which comes with two turbos. I can say with certainty that both Nengun and Greenline have the kit available for between $3050-3200 (I know, because I checked a couple of hours ago).

As for the Garrett GT2860s in -5 spec, I suggest you check the results that some people have gotten (e.g. TommyK) and decide if you can live with that level of lag. The only person I know of with the smaller -7 spec (R32 TT) hasn't posted any results. Although the specs appear very similar to the HKS turbos (and I have little doubt the HKS turbos are at the very least based on the GT2860s), there is no confirmation they are the same.

Also bear in mind the HKS kit is a *complete* kit, containing all the necessary gaskets, studs, nuts, etc. Although it doesn't sound like much, try pricing these things.

Edit: As for the N1s, they look like a really nice option to me except they are rare and command a premium. Invariably they are second hand, nearly the same price as new Garretts or just a smidge cheaper than new HKS's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...