Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i recently imported a R32 VSPEC for 30K, it was 4 grade and very clean (not perfect, little signs of age on the interior) it had 80K kms on it. VSPEC and VSPEC 2 are fetching big $$$ atm because there were 1500 ish made of each model compared with 40,000 of the normal GTRs, making them fairly rare. The guy i'm using as an agent is using this car as a test car to get the compliance plates for late model R32s so i was pretty much garanteed a clean car :P

mint as condition I would be prepared to pay $30k absolute tops. I have a real passion for this particular model, but the facts are facts, unless you buy one because you realy want one it just not finacially worth it. Especially with GC to VGC 90's gtr's going now from 16,500 to 20,000 with mod's....

where exactly can u buy a gc to vgc 90's gtr for 16,500 or anywhere near that price. every gtr near that price is not in vgc. - www.carsales.com. please explain.

and in response to othres comments about having to spend too much on non-vspecs compared to 90 model gtrs is garbage. a couple of years newer isnt going to make much diff.

buy a nice looking 90 gtr and with the money u save buy pfc and a couple of garrett or hks turbs and put a vspec badge on it because thats probably what u want the most neway. :)

well. u can get good condition GTR's for that much

mine cost me 13'000 landed.

It has a twin plate, oil cooler, airpods, exhaust, Ohlins coilovers, short shifter, enkei rp 17*9 inch rims, running 1 bar ect.

Mechanically the engine runs very well and the gearbox is in good condition, the body has no dents and the paint is immaculate apart from the bottom of the front bar where some paint has been scratched off (only 10cm clearance)

The only problems with the car was a small section of crushed rail that had to be fixed to pass sa transport inspection and the previous owner had cut a hole in the dash to put gauges in.

In total including compliance, a full service, rego, insurance, stamp duty, and getting a few small things fixed comes to about 18'000

If you want it as a collectable to put in your garage and take to the occasional show then sure buy the mint vspec2.

I would be suprised if my car wasnt faster and handles better than one of these mint stock vspecs anyway. It made 229rwkw on the SAU adelaide dyno day not that long ago. Depends what you want it for, as nice as it would be to own the car you speak of, im happy with my car and the performance value it has given me.

gtr6yt.jpg

besides private imports than. that's always going to be cheaper and obviously most of the time riskier. tho on the local market i stand by my point with gtr prices. i think australian market value is like 25k. can anyone verify this.

can ne1 answer what a 32 gtr is actually worth and not what they can get one for.

A gtr is worth what people are willing to buy/sell it for

According to redbook 1990 import is worth: National average price - private sale* $18,900 - $23,800

Redbook 1990 BNR32 import

A 1992 Local car on the other hand: National average price - private sale* $31,900 - $38,400

Redbook 1992 BNR32 Aus Delivered

If i sold my car it would go on the market for around 20-22k, there are alot more sellers than buyers at the moment, i dont see why you cant pick up a good condition car locally for 20k.

Still i DO agree that on the most part you are looking at sub-par cars under that 20k mark, unless you are very very lucky or you import yourself (and you still need some luck doing it that way)

So whats it worth? 94 R32 VSPEC 2 done 80,000kms interior/exterior in excellent. Paint work is excellent, there is a little bit of fading on the external doors seals. Motor and plenem still have all the orignal paint on them. All round the car is in great condtion and original.

Could possible get it for $35,000. Is it worth it at this price as i have never seen one for sale (not a VSPEC2) anyway.

Cheers

well if u really want a vspec, do it - but i dont think you'll be able to sell it for that much. if it makes u happy and u hav the money, fair enough but u definately wont make money on it. amd even tho it looks in top nik, i promise u it will cost just as much in repairs as ne other gtr. 15yrs old or 12yrs old, vspec or non vspec

i have a vspec 1... and have also driven normal GTR... i would no way ever try and buy a normal GTR and spend money on it to get it 2 VSPEC standard.

I am happy to pay the extra price for such a rare car... for all the GTR owners who cant afford the best the R32 can deliver... go and spend your 22,000 on a GTR and get back to me in a couple of years on how well it is still doing... or how much money u had to spend on a 89-90 GTR to keep it on road, once u start to punish it. Remember they 15 years old, and if still got original turbos.. will soon blow.

There is no argument u can put to me...  mate u are better off buying a 93 or 94 vspec... if u have to pay extra price .. who cares.. u would pay that amount on fixing a 89-92 model anyway... and we all know the cost of fixing or modifying a GTR. And in the end u have a rare VSPEC...

Just my thoughts.

haha, you are one pretty serious wanker mate. thinking that a 93 GTR is that much better than a 92 GTR? though you did say you have driven ONE non-vspec GTR so i guess your knowledge base on that issue is very wide... so basically what you are telling me is every pre-1993 GTR is a shit box. Every 1993 or 94 vspec is an absolute pearler. good one knuckle head. by your logic a 1994 Vspec must absolutely shit all over your pezzy 1993 model. what's the matter couldn't you afford the best R32 GTR?

I own a V-Spec II and honestly, as a road car, apart from the brakes you would be splitting hairs to work out which is better.

As a race car its a different story depending on category and restrictive regulations. Therefore many replica's V-Spec N1's running Targa ect.

If you want a car that few other people have then the V-Spec models are good to have, plus 32s have the race hisotry - as said below, they usually move for around $35k.

PS - If you want a comparison, my V-Spec II is for sale. Although being in excellent condition when it was imported I still managed to spend A LOT more than first contemplated on it. Unless you do it right the first time, you never stop spending with a GT-R.

http://www.my105.com/42171

  • 4 weeks later...
i have a vspec 1... and have also driven normal GTR... i would no way ever try and buy a normal GTR and spend money on it to get it 2 VSPEC standard.

I am happy to pay the extra price for such a rare car... for all the GTR owners who cant afford the best the R32 can deliver... go and spend your 22,000 on a GTR and get back to me in a couple of years on how well it is still doing... or how much money u had to spend on a 89-90 GTR to keep it on road, once u start to punish it. Remember they 15 years old, and if still got original turbos.. will soon blow.

There is no argument u can put to me...  mate u are better off buying a 93 or 94 vspec... if u have to pay extra price .. who cares.. u would pay that amount on fixing a 89-92 model anyway... and we all know the cost of fixing or modifying a GTR. And in the end u have a rare VSPEC...

Just my thoughts.

:O :lol:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...