lang

I am looking at buying an M35, would you guys mind if i popped in at the main meeting place to take a look at some of the cars?

hmm, my torso is probably slightly bigger than normal, but my fiancee who is 5'11 and she has long legs, the headrest only came half way up her head at its maximum height. It looks like it has the standard non-electric cloth seats from the photos of other cars I have been looking at today.

Hi, I am looking at getting a M35, and I went and test drove one today. I am about 6 foot and even with the headrest at full height it only reached up to my neck. It felt like if I was rear-ended my neck would snap off. Other than that I loved the car, do the leather seats have a different shape/height? Do the newer revision models have taller seats? Am i the only one that has noticed this? I may have to get an aftermarket seat as I am pretty keen on an M35

Yep it does you can see it clearly in this photo and bnr was correct, the footage is from the nismo festival of speed in 2002.

Hey, Video is of the the 1990 Calsonic R32 GTR. Its not an actual race however some of the driving is at/close to race pace (starts about 1/3 of the way in) Video Link Cheers, Lang ps. I love this car

when you know your chassy number off by heart but you cant remember any of your familys birth dates

They look like Zeal coilovers to me

i daily drive my gtr and i havent worked for 18 months. You can actually maintain one extremley cheaply if you service it yourself and treat it properly.

have u seen how immobilisers work? unless your installer hid the relay really well, which they wouldnt have because its hard and takes alot more time (i installed my own with a mate). providing the theif can locate the relays it would only take about 15 seconds to un-immoblise one.

with my r32 gtr (and a twin plate clutch) i would have done at least 40 7000rpm clutch drops, its the only way to get it moving without boggind down at all, that launches it like no other car ive been in.

i think skyline boots look out of proportion from the rear 3/4 view when there is no wing on them

i did a little test today because my car has a peak hold function on the boost guage at 3000rpm exactly in 3rd gear my car makes 4.7 psi on a flat piece of road

its got stock turbos and dumps and intercooler, its got a cat back exhaust and hks airpods, so that might make it boost a little earlier that a completley stock car

driving along the freeway at 100k's and hour i make 2-3psi at 2800rpm (this is very slightly uphill, crusing at constant speed, without full acceleration)

not including buying the car and fixing the problems it had when i first got it, ie since its been registered and ive been driving it, it has cost me $55 in oil in last 6 months, thats it. 430km per tank for fuel oh yeah. its my only car .. so its a daily driver

well, not only is my R32 GTR registered as a 5 seater (and please dont tell me my car came from nissan as a 5 seater) but on my rego sticker my car is registered as a "nissan sedan". My car could be a maxima for all transport SA knows. Note: i did all the regency paperwork and took the car through myself after compliance and did not mis-represent the car in any way

mine does the exact same thing i get a shudder coming from the rear when im reversing with the clutch semi-engaged, and turning tightly at very low speed again while the clutch is semi engaged (twin plate). No problems doing either with the clutch fully engaged. i also think it is normal to be doing this.

i dont know the brand of the tape but.. my r32 gtr had an oem nissan dealer fitted knee brace/pad on the drivers door and center console. they were fkn annoying so i tried to remove them. the double sided tape they used on these was f**king hardcore, in the end i had to take the door skin off and use a filleting knife to cut between the door skin and the knee brace thru the foamy part of the tape, could not get it off any other way, im still stuck with the glue on the door trim, cant get it off. so if you really really want to fix it will this stuff exists, goodluck ever gettting it off tho

mine goes up to about 2/3 on the guage within the first 3-4min of driving, and once it hits that spot it never moves no matter how i drive or the temperature conditions. so seems like mine sits higher but it also never moves once the car has a bit of temperature in it, could be a similar problem but i dont know what it is....

mm, porn for your ears

So i was driving down the road and i hear this loud PSSST noise, look out the rear-vision mirror and oil pissing out from underneath the car (r32 GTR). I pull over and turn the car off probably withing 5 seconds of it starting to leak, it probably dumped at least 2-3L in that 5 seconds I then tow the car home, fill it up with cheap oil, turn it on (trying to locate the area where the leak was, cos there was oil fkn everywhere, even coating down the whole length of my exhaust on one side) As soon as the oil pressure guage moves off 0 oil starts pissing out. Turn it off, look where it was coming from which happens to be right under the oil filter. I look closer and the oil filter rubber washer is partially squished out the side on the underside of the filter, with a small gap between the squished out section and the filter. so my question is, what could cause the washer to break its seal, 5000km after it was changed? improper installation, washer failure, incorrect oil filter? (i wasnt the one who fitted it)

haha i was kidding, i do do it myself every 4000km

if your sitting in side the car mine is located at the front left lower air vent on the front bumper, angled at a 45 degree angle from the front bumper towards the wheel. it has a fabricated air catcher between the bumper vents and the oil cooler, and at the rear some holes have been cut inside the front left wheelarch to allower airflow from the rear of the cooler out. mine is farily clear of the intercooler piping in that positon, had you considered/ seen if its possible to mount it on an angle?

i get centerlink youth allowance, and i have an r32 gtr i bought this oil where you dont have to change it for 20'000km

because of the cheap price of imported ones (mine was something like 12k landed prior to compliance/maintenance ect) a lot of people bought them just to sell in australia. due to this there has been recently a large number of r32 gtr's for sale at prices much cheaper than previously. Go back 5 years and you could find aus delieverd standard r32 gtrs in unique cars for 50k plus. Now you can find good condition imports for 20k plus. If your keeping your car its not a bad thing, due to the much larger spare parts base. If your trying to sell a GTR at the moment it would suck, alot of average condition imports bought and brought to aus just to be sold for a profit here. I think your probably right and many of these sub-par cars will go off the road with problems, however my 12k car^^ is very mechanically strong and healthy so dont expect them all to blow up, they are strong cars. IMO what will happen with prices is that for an average to good condition car will settle at about 20 thousand, because most owners buying a car for 15-17k will probably spend another few getting the car up to scratch. dont expect prices to start going back up my 2 c