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first and final bump

turned out to be some dodgy wiring in the loom

For Sale 1988 Rx7 infini 94'000km infini's had: shorter (4.3) final drive ratio Alumiuium bonnet momo steering wheel and gear knob lightweight bbs rims, and lower suspention no rear seats 1 of 300 this car also has zeal camber adjustable coilovers Racing Hart 17*8 and 17*9 (rear) rims Extreme HD clutch and 4kg chrome moly flywheel RS*R Exhaust and dump pipe front strut brace car always serviced by mildrens every 5000km Price: $13'000 I can be contacted on 0438 851 861

my battery worked fine and the car had been sitting for 6 months prior to shipping, so it wont DEFINATLY be dead, cos mine wasnt, but your right its very very likely. and your also right about the brakes, they were ****ing awfull on the drive home, still safe enough taking it slowly, but shithouse all the same

if your worried about it put it on a trailer how do you plan to change oil and filter prior to moving it anywhere, you can do it at the depot when i picked mine up i took spare battery, 20L of bp ultimate (to dilute what little fuel that was in there and would have been off from sitting for 6 months), oil ect. i also checked oil levels, coolant levels, brake fluid levels ect prior to driving off.

i like the chirp so that you know the alarm has actually armed itself, handy if your walking away from the car as you press the button.

i think hed have to spend a huge amount to build his gtr so that it can lap tsukuba in 1min reliably. in this case id be taking the rx7, he could allways build another gtr later, but cars like that one, that have had every aspect of the car modified, almost never come available

the ignitor module does look a little corroded on the outside, ill take a better look at it

hey, When driving my R32 GTR it keeps cutting out (similar feeling to running out of fuel) and when it does this it wont idle it just stalls, then ill start it again and it will idle ok and drive normally for a bit (seconds to a minute or so), then start cutting out again the feeling when it cuts out at say 2500rpm is very similar to running out of fuel in your tank but a tiny bit different, runs really rough like its dropped half the cylinders and looses all the power completley. its not persistent tho and when it comes good it runs perfectley for a little while (enough to limp home on). my guess is its a fueling issue of some sort, has anyone come across this problem before?

i own one, also own a 32 gtr, and i love it but i really cant answer your question without writing an essay, and i cant be bothered, they get crap fuel economy tho

Mate, it was a quick way of saying he (riceracing) has alot of knowledge for those not familiar with him, dont interpret my comment as a direct comparison or some form of competition....

if anyones interested theres an 12 page debate with a reasonably high technical level in some of the posts about running a bov vs not running one at all. http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/forums/vi...t=17113&start=0 interestingly enough riceracing who could be called the ausrotary equivalent of sydneykid has the opposite opnion, and has evidence of modified rotary running many km without a blow off valve and has experienced no ill effects on the turbo. as for the aftermarket vs stock bov debate, id be suprised if you saw any difference performance wise between the two, unless your stock one is faulty.

well you mentioned the manual so youve probabaly allready read this but anyway Standard is 171psi at 300rpm Limit value is 128psi at 300rpm maximum variance limit between cylinders is 14psi so 138 is still above that, but not a huge amount

scenario zeix, FC rx7, lots of rear negative camber, just been through car wash. ok i did a left hand turn at about 25kph, i wasnt accelerating at all, i was just coasting in second gear SLOWLY, like i could take this corner on the angle that i did it at 60 with dry tires and some acceleration. anyway the risidual water from the car wash made it slippery enough that the rear completley switched ends with the front, i managed to catch it but if anyone other than me was driving the car they woudlve been facing backwards into oncoming traffic. i dont trust the zeix in the wet at all, driving up old beliar road in adelaide at 60 in the wet i was having to countersteer the entire way up due to the oversteer driving up the road at 60 in third gear was causing from wheelspin. its downright dangerous, i daresay that if my mum or dad had been driving the car at the time they wouldve been straight into the guardrail much prefer the bridgestone grid 3's i had prior to these

yes your completley right, but the way i look (in general terms with advice) at it is that people take your advice onboard as part of the collective information they use to decide what option is the right one for them. You shouldnt expect people to do what you say even if you know its the best way.

well u can fit 215's on a 9" rim (looks out window)

all i can say is if u have this stuff make sure that if it leaks its not going to be able to leak on anything. heat, time, and some loose heavy objects in the boot of my old car managed to make a bit of a mess.

17*9 +22 5x114.3 is the correct offset for 9 inch wide R32 GTR wheels, not sure on offsets for larger sizes mabye no ones answered cos this info is available by searching?

what condition is the dashboard in? i DONT need any of the guages, centre console, vents ect ect ect. just need the dash as mine has a hole cut in it. if its in good condition, no cracks holes ect, how much do think you'd be after?

1. 1988 Mazda FC Infini rx7 White 2. 1990 Nissan BNR32 Silver both owned currently

isnt it illegal to remove abs from a car that came with it?

id be suprised if it was only 100'000. my 1989 car has 95'000 on it and it looks like its still brand new inside

well, you want to change gears slightly past peak power, to get the most out of it, the power is a curve, so it peaks and then tapers off. It is best to change slightly into the taper, so when you change into the next gear, the engine will be closer to the RPM peak power is made than if you had changed right at peak power. obviously it depends on how fast it drops off, as to when you should change, and also to an extent where the torque curve lies. thats something you have to judge as the driver.

a z32 AFM is the Air Flow Meter from a Z32 model 300zx. Its physically larger (i think 80mm) and offeres greater resolution for tuning as well as being less of a physical restriciton. It is a normal air flow meter, and you would use the normal model of power FC, NOT the d-jetro if you do a search on this, you will get a huge amount on information on the different kinds of air flow meters, its been covered many times before

how come your changing gears at peak power instead of past peak power? usually u go a bit past peak power before you change gear, ie if its making it a 6, id probably be changing around 7 anyway