Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all..

I want to know how much boost I can run with what I've done to the motor..

I will be getting a stand alone management system soon but here is what has been done..

I've put forged pistons in (Weisco 8.4 comp).. shot peened the rods, ARP rod bolts, balanced and polished crank, everything has been balanced, new rings of course, bored and honed, square decked. ARP head studs, port and polished head, standard cams, re ground valves, standard springs, hi flowed the turbo (capable of up to about 250kw at the wheels), front mount intercooler, 3 inch exuast.

(I havent got upraged fuel injectors yet but will be doing so, just not sure what to get yet)... I have a series 1 skyline but apparently when I took my turbo in, the guy said it was a series 2 turbo, maybe the whole motor is series 2 which means the injectors will be. I've heard that the series 2 injectors flow alot better!..

Anyway, what you think guys??

injectors are same for series 1 or 2. your bulder should have given you a power target and boost level. you will need an aftermarket ecu and injectors before you can up the boost pressure. also what exhaust? 3inch what? what dump? what front? what cat? what air intake have u got?

Well that's interesting caus I was told series 2 had better injectors... hhmmm...

Standard intake atm, dunno brand of exuast, mandrel bend, yeah, i'm aware that you need bigger injectors, aftermarket ecu, etc... I've done my homework.. I think I'll just run 15psi when it's setup correctly...

The machinist aren't building my engine.. I'm doing it myself with my cousin (who builds engines quite a bit.. they are just preping the block and parts...

exhaust will make a big difference to your final output and how it runs so don't just seelte for "should be good enough" find out. you should have at least a 3" split dump system hiflow cat and 3" catback.

series 2 injectors are same as series 1, 370cc will max out after 200rwkw

well over 300rwkw easily supported on that setup, considering you have forgies and lowered compression ratio from standard.

get some good cams and just add boost from a decent size turbo and watch the power skyrocket :O

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi GTSBoy, Excuse my ignorance but what does a "Bad" Knee point mean ? 
    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
×
×
  • Create New...