Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering, if anyone has in there grasp, and english version of the HKS install instructions for a set of 87mm pistons to suit an rb26dett

Ive got the kit, but the info is in jap, so just wondering if anyone has some specs on what the piston to bore clearances should be machined too, ive deciphered all the other info, just need that last little nugget of info..

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98183-piston-to-bore-clearance-hks-pistons/
Share on other sites

I would assume they would still have an equation to work it out. Math is the universal language.

I would think that you would need around 5-6 thou clearance but it will depend on what the instructions tell you.

Do you happen to have a camera you could take a photo of it with?

I would assume they would still have an equation to work it out. Math is the universal language.

I would think that you would need around 5-6 thou clearance but it will depend on what the instructions tell you.

Do you happen to have a camera you could take a photo of it with?

It should be 2 thou...nowhere near 5 thou!

i had the same drama with my trust ones.

look at the instruction for some numbers. mine had a dodgy diagram and .05mm amongst it all.

which is 1.9 thou(2 thou) very important because they dont use "file back" rings

forged pistons will need a much greater clearance than cast pistons

But it all depends on what the manufacturer specifies for them

Hence my previous remark

6 thou is not excessive for piston to bore clearance. 2 thou is extremely close. But like it was said...fileback rings do make a difference.

Edited by 3lit3 32
XRW - i made up an RB bore page a little while ago...

http://members.westnet.com.au/taffyt/RB%20...over%20bore.htm

87mm pistons on a RB26 requires a 40thou overbore.

:)

That is correct but your RB20 info is wrong. They are a 78 X 69.7.

forged pistons will need a much greater clearance than cast pistons

But it all depends on what the manufacturer specifies for them

Hence my previous remark

6 thou is not excessive for piston to bore clearance. 2 thou is extremely close. But like it was said...fileback rings do make a difference.

6 thou is the sort of clearances id expect on poorly made forged pistons, not properly made hks stuff..

the factory specs for stock cast pistons indicate .035-.055 mm as clearances, i wouldn'ty have expected much more than the factory specs for HKS stuff, or anything japanese really..

4-5 thou and more and you get a very slappy motor..

which means it'll be a breather,, something im not really looking at building..

I did an engine not long ago with HKS pistons. They were used but not really worn. At the nominal bore size they ran under .0025" clearance. If you bore and hone your block to the nominal size you should find that you have just over .002" clearance. Pistons are usually made with the clearance built in to them, meaning that the pistons will be whatever the clearance is smaller than the nominal size.

At 87mm (3.4252") the piston should measure 3.4232" +0/-.0003-4" about .250"-.300" from the bottom of the skirt. Remember that the skirts are tapered slightly, smaller at the top of the skirt.

Any extra clearance you give the piston will increase your ring gap by a factor of Pi, meaning that for every .001" extra size on the bore you will have .0031" extra ring gap (using Pi x diameter).

Edited by proengines

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...