Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest Vspecman

I know there are some experts out there.

So who can help with this-

My V spec Gtr is one of the last 33's built. It has the vin number as BCNR33 then 43389.

Various engine hoses and the spare tyre have the date of manufacture at 3.98.

Does anyone have info from Nissan or another source to determine when it was made?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/985-how-old-is-my-gtr/
Share on other sites

The series 3 continued to be built into the early months of 98 so it could still be built in 98. I'm not sure why you are checking up on it but if its because you think its not a genuine late model one then you can also check for all the other things that are on the series 3 such as HID's front lip, red stitching on the seats etc etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/985-how-old-is-my-gtr/#findComment-21137
Share on other sites

Guest Vspecman

thanks tonyxc and 400hp.

I am hoping there would be some Nissan production information showing when certain vehicles were produced. I am amazed that Nissan does not readily provide such information.

Cars like Mercedes Benz and Porsche have a long Vin number which is easily decoded to tell you production date, which part of the world the car was built for, LH or RH drive etc which is essential info when buying an import.

The last of the 33 V spec cars were produced after production of the 34 GTR cars had commenced.

Tomorrow I am picking up a R34 V spec from a workshop where it has just had N1 turbos, power FC etc installed and taking it for run on a 4wd dyno.

Any specific info on the production dates would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/985-how-old-is-my-gtr/#findComment-21170
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...