Jump to content
SAU Community

Fuel Perge Tank

7yphon

By 7yphon,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

7yphon Experienced

7yphon

Posted
Posted

Well long story short I was doing something in my engine bay Pulling something off and i slipped and broke the little plastic peice that connects to the Hoses. It says its the Fuel Perge tank but what is it and what does it do, Does this mean I need to buy a new one now?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98882-fuel-perge-tank/
Share on other sites
mjfawke Collaborator

mjfawke

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sounds like the purge line for the vapour canister. One line to the fuel tank, and vacuum and purge lines to the inlet manifold. The canister contains activated carbon, stores fuel vapour from the tank, and releases it into the inlet manifold when the motor is under light load.

So - if you broke the connection to the tank, you will end up with fuel vapour in the engine bay (bad), if you broke the purge line or vacuum line to the inlet manifold you will have an air leak and run the motor lean (worse).

Yes - replace it.

Edited by mjfawke
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98882-fuel-perge-tank/#findComment-1800485
Share on other sites
7yphon Experienced

7yphon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well I Tried to fix it with superglue works *sorta when I start getting to speeds over 100 its start to run really bad and makes lots of noise.

Ill try and track one down but I hear they are hard to come by.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98882-fuel-perge-tank/#findComment-1805847
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • sonicii
      Anyone running the VQ37VHR with forced induction?

      By sonicii · Posted

      I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • GTSBoy
      Anyone running the VQ37VHR with forced induction?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • GTSBoy
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...