Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmmm.. I dont think it's a fantastic result.

I got my RB25DET done when I bought my car (57,000km's) and I got 160 across five cylinders and 150 on the other.

Yeah I heard that it's consistency that is a good thing, but the higher the better I think?

The guy who tested it (Unique Auto Sport in Castle Hill) said that they have tested heaps of RB25's and mine was up there as one of the highest they'd seen. I have heard a lot of people testing down around 140, but never as low as 125.

I'm not sure what the implications of this are though. Sorry I cant be of much help either...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98939-compression-test/#findComment-1801813
Share on other sites

well, i dont know what to think right now, maybe i didnt do the comp test correctly...but its even across all cylinders to the lb, so i think its all good...the engine has been very well looked after, i just did it out of curiosity...try it again tomorrow, getting a rollcage fitted so maybe they'll point me in the right direction as what it is...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98939-compression-test/#findComment-1802063
Share on other sites

125 isn't perfect but still in the reasonable limits. It's good when all the cylinder have lost compression equally, but losing compression doesn't mean a real lot as it's turbo, the turbo's will always have less psi than a N/A engine. I don't own an RB25 though but this compression is good enough (not great) for a turbo engine

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98939-compression-test/#findComment-1802667
Share on other sites

theres no smoke or oil used, the turbo seals are blown out but driving off boost it doesnt smoke at all, power is still fantastic...i have a feeling the low readings were because my battery is ratshit...like i mean..if you start it and stall the car, be prepared to push it..that and my throttle body was closed...

Looking at my spark plugs, theyre almost brand new still, no buildup of anything at all, engine overall seems to be running brilliantly. Must have been the way i did it...

BTW, sorry nismoid...i searched but i didnt get a straight answer to what i was looking for so i posted a new thread...my bad...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98939-compression-test/#findComment-1803007
Share on other sites

I wouldn't have thought this is much for an rb25, but I have heard that an even spread across all the cylinders is more important.

My rb25det from a 97' s2 r33 has between 153-160 across all cylinders, being the lowest and highest from all readings.

125 sounds a little low, but if the others say its ok if it aint using oil and water etc, then i could be wrong. Possible try testing another one if you can, just for reference.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98939-compression-test/#findComment-1816005
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...