Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I have got an Apexi pod filter. On the nengun site it says its a replacement filter.

There is no adapter, just holes in the back of the filter where the screws go in.

The part number is 500-A022.

I know that there is a kit for my R34, part number 500-N006. However this kit does not come with an adapter because the filter will bolt straight on to the AFM.

Question is, the replacement filter I have, will that just also bolt straight on?

What is the difference between to 2 parts? If there is no adapter in the Apexi kit, then shouldnt the 2 parts be the same? Or are there some other parts that I need?

Cheers all!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99268-apexi-pod-filter-without-adapter/
Share on other sites

it sounds like you bought the new paper insert for them and no i dont see that its going to bolt on to your AFM but you need the whole filter instead.yep thats what you did same numbers you should have got the power intake kit!

http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/115

507-N006

I pretty much have this:

nengun-product-241.jpg

With holes at the back of the filter for screws.

The nengun site says "The Apexi Intake kit includes. Power intake funnel, Adapter, Gaskets and Bolts."

I already have the intake funnel, gaskets and bolts. Just no adapter, but have been told an adapter does not come with the R34 kit because it doesnt need one.

Any R34 owners out there with a Apexi pod?

Mate ER34 and ECR33 are same part number.

http://www.perfectrun.com.au/performance%2...powerintake.htm

Since R33 GTS-T part comes with adaptor you must also need one for R34?

http://www.modyourcar.com.au/product_info....roducts_id=2607

There you can see R34 part includes adaptor.

A quick question though, why is there a different part number for turbo and non-turbo R33? What differences are there?

I have one of those HKS Super Power Flow 'mushroom' filters that looks like that when you turn it over. Mine didn't need an adaptor of any sort, just bolted straight on to the AFM. I'd assume the Apexi one is the same.

"My cat's name is Mittens."

the only thing the kit comes with as opposed to just the filter i believe is a metal bracket to hold the pod up.

i bought the kit and was dissapointed that this was the only difference when i could have got just the filter which bolts straight up.

so with the filter it will bolt straight up, it comes with a paper gasket that u put between the afm and filter.

if u dont have a bracket for it u will have to make one (easy)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...