Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

okay...

Mechanical: The guage itself acts as the sensor... i.e. if you've got a Mechanical boost guage, the vacuum (boost) line will plug directly into the back of the guage, and this is used for the input for the readout...

Electrical: The guage gets its data from a seperate sender. I.e. in the example of a boost guage again, there would be a seperate sender mounted in the engine bay somewhere, that the boost line plugs into... the Sender then converts the boost pressure into electronic data, and transmits it to the guage, which then displays it for you...

So, in conclusion, if you're looking for things like Oil Pressure, Oil Temperature, Water Temperature etc, try and get Electronic, as nothing worse than driving along, and getting boiling hot oil squirted on your face if the line/guage fails or something.

(Well, thats my interpretation of things, someone feel free to correct me if i'm wrong)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99385-gauges/#findComment-1811577
Share on other sites

The only mechanical gauge I'd have is boost.

Another way to think about it is the gauge needs smething to detect what it's actually reading right? something that detects the temp/pressure/whatever.

In an electrical, the sender sits in the engine bay and sends an electrical signal to the gauge by a wire to tell it what value to display with the needle.

With a mechanical, you have to take whatever you're measuring and plug it straight into the gauge.. so your oil line has to go into the cabin to plug into the gauge. Ugly stuff.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99385-gauges/#findComment-1811659
Share on other sites

anyone seen the price of electric fuel pressure guages??? they are like $900 from autometer...

and only $160 for Mech style fuel pressure...

so you definately pay for it. but the std ones like oil pres. and temp are still cheap for electric guages.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99385-gauges/#findComment-1813039
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Cheers! thats pretty clear. i think that electric autometer one can stay in the shop. thats ridiculous. i also saw one that was liquid filled? whats the go with that. it sold for $60 on ebay. i thought that sounded like a sweet price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99385-gauges/#findComment-1835336
Share on other sites

Ouch. I would NOT pay a. for american gauges b. that much.

Greddy electrical gauges go for 180-200 second hand on the forums. Funnily I have a water one ready to go (black face) if anyone wants (shameless plug).

Nengun have them around $220-$280 brand new.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99385-gauges/#findComment-1836104
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...