Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

btw.. I made 164rwkw which is 221hp on 1 bar of boost.

Its not just about peak power its the mid range that gets you there so the RB25DET will be quicker in accelerating to the peak power.

Considering though the RB20DET does do extremly extremly well in the power department. Especially considering the RB25DET has VCT, bigger turbo, higher static comp ratio etc..

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just to throw some spice into the conversation, my CA18DET did 214rwhp fully tuned with an SAFC etc, and my RB20DE does 120rwhp with no tuning, no oilchange running 95RON fuel :)

its not about displacement sometimes...

Snoop, are you doing the conversion yourself? If you are then i'd honestly put about $2500 aside for things such as timing belt, fuel pump, filter, oil, sparkies etc. Second of all, you will need to do something about the sump hitting on the sway bar and the clearance of the engine ie hitting the roof. Are you good with wiring? If not then put aside about 300 at least for getting someone to do the wiring and adjusting. If you already have a sr20det then stick with it. I promise you you'll be better off.

The front cover turned out to be stock aswell, I originally thought it was a VG30 item but that would mean it would be smaller than the RB25.

The turbo is still running fine after two and a half years( with a greddy cooler which I think increases its life)

I am having it rebuilt because a friend of mine was helping me pull it to bits and snapped my turbine off the shaft with a badly aimed hammer....=(

Rebuild specs b4 u ask are

compressor- T04B V trim

top 52mm

major 72mm

VG30 .7 A/R exhaust housing and turbine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...