Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

btw.. I made 164rwkw which is 221hp on 1 bar of boost.

Its not just about peak power its the mid range that gets you there so the RB25DET will be quicker in accelerating to the peak power.

Considering though the RB20DET does do extremly extremly well in the power department. Especially considering the RB25DET has VCT, bigger turbo, higher static comp ratio etc..

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just to throw some spice into the conversation, my CA18DET did 214rwhp fully tuned with an SAFC etc, and my RB20DE does 120rwhp with no tuning, no oilchange running 95RON fuel :)

its not about displacement sometimes...

Snoop, are you doing the conversion yourself? If you are then i'd honestly put about $2500 aside for things such as timing belt, fuel pump, filter, oil, sparkies etc. Second of all, you will need to do something about the sump hitting on the sway bar and the clearance of the engine ie hitting the roof. Are you good with wiring? If not then put aside about 300 at least for getting someone to do the wiring and adjusting. If you already have a sr20det then stick with it. I promise you you'll be better off.

The front cover turned out to be stock aswell, I originally thought it was a VG30 item but that would mean it would be smaller than the RB25.

The turbo is still running fine after two and a half years( with a greddy cooler which I think increases its life)

I am having it rebuilt because a friend of mine was helping me pull it to bits and snapped my turbine off the shaft with a badly aimed hammer....=(

Rebuild specs b4 u ask are

compressor- T04B V trim

top 52mm

major 72mm

VG30 .7 A/R exhaust housing and turbine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...