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Rear Gearbox Mount - Dr30

NeoLokie

By NeoLokie,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

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Matty T Collaborator

Matty T

Posted
Posted

No, they are not the same - they are better. The K/B/Z gearbox mount rubbers are actually a heavier duty item than the one that came with the DR.

You do have to make a small modification though - you will need to file the holes in the gearbox crossmember slightly. The distance between the two 12mm bolts that mount the rubber to the gearbox crossmember are a couple of mm narrower (or wider, I can't remember which) than the DR mount.

I have done mine and am currently using a 180B gearbox rubber mount in my DR30.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Matt

DR JOSH Community Regular

DR JOSH

Posted
Posted
No, they are not the same - they are better. The K/B/Z gearbox mount rubbers are actually a heavier duty item than the one that came with the DR.

You do have to make a small modification though - you will need to file the holes in the gearbox crossmember slightly. The distance between the two 12mm bolts that mount the rubber to the gearbox crossmember are a couple of mm narrower (or wider, I can't remember which) than the DR mount.

I have done mine and am currently using a 180B gearbox rubber mount in my DR30.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Matt

Yup same, I'm running datto mounts and had to elongate the holes.

NeoLokie Enthusiast

NeoLokie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ahh awesome that helps a lot guys! I'd be able to get a mount from most places for that wouldn't I? I was in pedders yesterday and they had listings of gearbox mounts for all kinds of things.

Just while we're sorta on rubbers, the bushes in my rear subframe are buggered, I'm going to get some pineapples from whiteline or something to just space up the gap, have you guys had this problem too? Apparently theres a guy in new zealand making bushes for them but I don't have any more details.

Rob

Matty T Collaborator

Matty T

Posted
Posted

This is a standard problem with age / abuse. My DR is a rally car, and as such, the rear end cops a pounding. The aluminium "pineapples" that people sell are fine for a track car, but for longevity of the car / suspension (and the hip pocket), do this:

1. Go down to Clark Rubber (or your local friendly rubber supplier) and buy a sheet of 6 mm insertion rubber. It comes in two styles - reinforced and not. Personally, I buy the reinforced stuff because it is versatile (and strong).

2. Loosen and then drop the rear end of your car. You only need to do it one end at a time (rear crossmember, then moustache bar) to the point where they are completely off the mounting pins. Just watch out for your rubber brake line! Oh, and don't forget to loosen off your handbrake as well.

3. Rear crossmember first - take out the large metal washers that have the corrugated rubber on them (if there is any left). Use this washer as a template, and cut yourself 8 pieces of insertion rubber to the same size. The hole in the middle will need to be bigger than the washer hole, as it needs to go over the metal mounting sleeve on the crossmember rubber (if you get my meaning).

4. On each side, put the metal washer back in, plus 2 of your new rubber blocks. Don't bolt it back together yet...

5. Now do the moustache bar, but you will only need 6 rubbers cut.

6. Once that is done, you should have the rear end loosely back in place, with 2 rubbers on each mounting pin. Jack the whole assembly back into place, and put 2 more rubber washers on each crossmember pin, followed by the original metal washer and brace.

7. Do the same for the moustache bar, but with only one rubber on each pin.

The rubbers should fill the gaps between the original metal washers neatly. Voila! Your own home-made rubber "pineapples"! Best $6 and 90 minutes you'll spend!

The advantage with this method is that it at least allows the rear end to have some "give" under extreme situations, but gives basically all the benefits of their expensive aluminium counterparts.

Apologies if the instructions are obvious - it is only there for the uninitiated.

My 2 cents.

Cheers,

Matt

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