Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im really interested to start drifting for a sport i would like some info on how to get into it like:

do you need a cams license?

do you need to be a member of a club?

what fees are required to get on the track?

how often do drift events happen?

what would be the first mods to a car with a minimal budget?

thanks for your imput let me know if this has been covered before

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99932-whats-needed-to-get-into-drift/
Share on other sites

1: yes cams licence is needed, in adelaide its an S2 cams licence not sure on other state could be same name........i assume it would.

2: generally its cheaper to drift as part of a cams affiliated club and you'l get notified on more events as well

3: Not sure on other states, but fees in adelaide are as follows

- $85 cams licence

- $140 to enter your car per event

- $$$ tyres

- $$$ fuel

- $ club fees if any

- $110 or something for practice at mallala and $20 for day pass cams licence (strictly once off, second time practice ur required to have ur cams licence)

4: Theres quite a few drift events now varying between states and National. 2 National events now, and each state has its own drift event seperately.....so if your good enough ur car and urself will get a good workout if u try for all 3

5: mods for a car with minimal budget could be many things

- catback exhaust system

- air pod

- front mount intercooler

- fuel cut defender

- turbo if the moneys there

- BOV (keep that standard turbo running)

- oil cooler (very important)

- good coilovers

- adjustable camber arms front and rear

- adjustable castor rods front

- 2 way mechanical diff (very important cant stress that enough)

- Hicas lock bar if your car has hicas steering

Heaps mate, pm me if u want more details

1- Just to add you won't need a cams license if you're just practicing at private track days like Fatz or something like that, although it's generally a good idea.

2- Similarly you don't absolutely need to be a member of a club (atleast not the first few times you go out drifting) but I think it's generally a good idea to support the scene that supports you. As I said it's generally a good idea to get a cams license and to get a cams license you need to be in a club that is affiliated with cams.

SAU is cams affiliated and cheap - cheapest club in NSW that is cams affiliated as far as I know.

To get started I'd say you need a FR car that you can give the beans. I'd question if you really need a pod though :huh:

5-

Car mods with absolute minimal money IMO

- suspension bits

- diff

- oil cooler

- get rid of hicas

Then

- exhaust

- replacement air filter

- boost controller + front mount (if turbo)

-

The list above by Nathan is pretty much where you'd want to be to start at a semi pro level (imo). If you've never done it before you could gradually build it up. Be mindful that's not even talking about power mods.

You also need a helmet.

try a motorkhana or two first. They cost a lot less than $140 - in QLD a round of the QLD motorkhana series costs about $20 to enter! and you'll get all the sideways fun you can handle in a very safe envirnoment. It will definitely improve your car control and give you more confidence before you start drifting at higher speeds on the track. And you don't need any mods.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...