Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday Guys

I bought an Oil Cooler Kit as I am into drifting. I have mounted the cooler, all I need to do is run the lines. The kit came with all ends crimped.

The lines they gave me are around twice the lenght they need to be.

- Is there any reason I shouldn't just use them as is?

- Will I lose pressure?

- Will it put too much strain on the oil pump?

- Does it hurt if I coil the excess hose?

Car is a 32 gtst

Thanks :huh:

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99979-oil-cooler-pressure-drop-a-problem/
Share on other sites

As long as you dont kink the lines its fine, the length wont make any difference to the pressure . Coil the hose if you have to but dont kink it , the longer hose is better as you have more oil and its easier to cool it .

yeah the longer hose and more oil I agree with.

But the idea that a longer hose also would mean further for the pump to push the oil.

I didn't think it would be a huge issue.

Anyone else want to back up wrxhoon and my own thoughts?

Kinking won't be an issue cause it's braided.

Cheers

Chris

it wont be a problem. the oil cooler i run in the GTR is quite a way from the take off and it runs 4 lines (has a remote filter and thermostat) and i have no trouble with pressure drop at all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...