kaneryan

Hey guys. Got my r34 GTR non spec rear diff for sale. Has broken pinion gear. Ended up buying a second hand diff with 60,000kms for $2000 Or I could have had it rebuilt for $1000 not including labour. These only fit non vspec (vspec have different diffs) Price: $600 Ono Location: central coast Shipping..... Weighs like 60kg so let's say pickup only 0409076032

c70.. I believe that means soft

done about 16-20 laps of south circuit ( eastern creek south circuit ) still plenty left.

For sale Genuine r34 GTR Nismo tail lights Price:$900 Location:central coast

for sale Price:$600 Locaton: Central Coast Hankook Z221's 265/35/18

for sale genuine rays wheels Price:$3200 Location: Central Coast TE37 TTA 19x10.5 +15 falken 452's - 275 30 19 perfect offset for 34 GTR's

to get an international licence you need to go to NRMA and as long as you have a full licence.. bang pay the money and you have a international licence.. unsure about the rest!

well the time has come to sell my car, i have more important things in life to do than spend more money on cars haha, $55,000

im not sure the wiring is much different to the power fc than the haltech, but again im not a tuner nor did i install it so i would only be guessing. the io expander makes you have more configurations you can use with the Haltech. again im not a tuner but to me that sounds like a good idea.. im only guessing its for making different tunes and being able to save up to 12.. someone correct me if im wrong. im with you jamie, i never got this "random cough" thing either. but i can say the car drives alot smoother with the haltech.

i also had a similiar problem when my fuel pickup line had a split and the fuel wasnt quite making it all the up to the top of the tank before a bit was spilling back into the tank. once again on full boost the haltech registered that the engine was leaning out, so it would boost cut. maybe it is a fuel issue, but then you said that the AFR's arnt changing to hmm its a tough one

hey dude i had this problem i had a haltech and my tuner had set up a fail safe setting that would set up boost cut. if the boost spiked above a certain psi it will boost cut. i could rev past it if was on light throttle but if i punched it in 4th gear from low down like 3000rpm and waited and waited and waited then bang full boost would come on hard at 5500rpm and it spiked a bit it would hit the boost cut and almost throw me through the windscreen haha. for example boost was set at 20spi and when it came on boost like that it would spike to 21psi and the boost cut was set to 21psi and then it would boost cut... maybe this is your problem

i swapped my PFC for my Haltech PP, car drives so much better. haltech io expander boost controller external map sensor 3 bar from memory eflex sensor all up i think was around $3200-$3400 could sell your power fc and afm for around $1000. so you would be paying roughly 2k or a tad over for all your new ecu gear.

www.willtheyfit.com is the best site to help you work out. 18 x 8.5 + 15 18 is the size or the height ....you should know that. 8.5 is the width of the rim how wide it is. +15 is the offset, so where the middle of the rim bolts onto the hubs. for example an offset of 0 will be the centre of the rim and it will bolt onto the hub in the dead centre of the rim. an offset of + anything means where the rim bolts onto the hub will be towards the outside of the rim letting the rim sit further inside or under the guards an offset of - anything means where the rim bolts onto the hub will be towards the inside of the rim letting the rim sit further outside the guards or towards the car next to you. its hard to get your head around if you have never learnt about it. but once you understand and read up on it you will understand it.

they are pretty cheap. you could go a 235/35/18.... i dont know much about 33 gts-t fitment, but i would be looking around the 18x8.5 + 15 front and 18x9.5 + 20 rear but have a search on here its been covered heaps im sure.