MANWHORE

some can use an easyout (I don't know how to use them without snapping them). I put a washer on it (to protect the head) then get my friend to weld it - build up the weld till it comes up. Then weld it to the washer. Put a nut on the washer ,and keep building up the weld till the nut is filled. Then undo it.

best way i know of removing broken studs is to weld a nut onto it. If the stud snapped, that means it's seized in. Unless if the person really knows what they're doing, they'll snap the easyout in there. if the whole big stud snapped, what chance does an easy out haev? Welding with a tig is very hot and can help break the bond firstly. Even if the nut comes off, just keep welding it till it comes off.

do NOT use gasket paper. Gasket paper is obviously not oil resistant. The oil just soaks through it. you can buy them from nissan. Can you reuse your old one? can you get it off without breakingn it? I've got a couple second hand ones here in good nick if you have trouble. Sydneykid - the studs are there, and they're not broken. They're not just sitting there.

yeah, squeeze harder. But, there is a special tool for it, but it's not requried. These are the 'new' clips as opposed to the old hose and hose clamp style.

do it on a dyno so you can listen out for knock. If you've got a stock ecu, and run 100 octane shell, you should be able to wind a fair amount of timing into it. The effect is more power, better fuel economy, more torque and faster spool time

I don't like thread guys with the electro zappy thing. IMO, welding a nut on works everytime. Some people are good at using easyouts. I haven't had a good experience. They're very brittle. Skilled people can. My theory on it is, the stud/bolt broke for a reason. It is because it's seized in there. So if a spanner on a big nut can't undo it, a skinny little thing in the middle of the stud/bolt won't remove it. Using a tig to weld a nut on it heats it up too and can help break the bond. If the nut snaps off, we just weld another one on until it comes off.

That hose is a special high temp oil resistant hose. I'd get one from nissan if yours is perished. It depends on the condition of it. The stock gasket is a copper/metal gasket and it is very good. I wouldn't substitute it with those crappy foil with goo squish aftermarket gaskets. If it's in good nic, i reuse it. Speaking of which, I reuse a lot of stuff on my car, because it's done about 40 000 ks genuine (bought from someone I knew in japan), so most of the stuff is hardly worn. I reused the gasket, because it looked brand new almost. I also reused the rubber hose, because it was in top shape. When we changed my friend's r32 turbo, the gasket literally fell into pieces. Use your judgement. Is your rubber perished and cracked when you squeeze it? or is it ok? it's not really in a hard position to change afterwards (accessible from under the car), so I wouldn't be too concerned about it.

both cars should be fine. Plenty of people run heaps of boost on stock ecus (i wouldn't). But in your case, it will basically be stock almost. Besides, surely, you can avoid fanging it for 1 day

Is wiring fuel resistant? What about that cable tie? I'm always just a bit worried about stuff like that e.g. it might last for 1 year, but what about 5?

what you've done is correct. jack up the engine (carefully - use rubber so you don't damage the sump). rotate the box to clear. definitely don't take the engine out. there's no need to. it's not a pulsar gtir

thanks joe. yuuummm that's some nice machining there

r33 - perfect shape. has defined corners, but not too square. curves where required. r34 - too boxy. looks like an r31. r32 - too old. looks outdated.

Supposedly, people say store them in bags. I know that the tyre shops don't do that. I'm not sure what the bags do. I've always kept them out of the elements, so in the shed. but apart from that, that's about it.

You don't need to pay someone ridiculous amounts of money to find a working rb25 actuator and tune the car. the only difference, will be that the boost may be a bit different and your boost controller will probably need to be tweaked afterwards (flap will no longer be leaking). Instead of getting him to source you one, pop up a post in the wtb section

it's not so much the power issue. It will certainly be a lot more responsive. think about it this way. your trying to build boost, but the flap is flapping trying to let some out. By having the flap functioning properly, it'll probably have less boost spike, and just overall be better.

I have heard of slide turbos doing that, but it's pretty rare on gcg highflows. Did you supply them the actuator as well when they highflowed it? or did you pop it on afterwards. I've had a couple turbos highflowed by gcg, and when I supplied the actuators, I didn't have the issue.

I was following NGK's american website recommendation for the torque for a 14 mm thread (that's what our plugs are). The site said 18-21 foot pounds. Normally, I just hand tighten it, then go another 2/3 turns. I normally just use a short 3/8 drive ratchet, so it's pretty hard to overtorque it, because you can't put my torque on it anyways. Today, I was borrowing my friend's torque wrench, so I thought i'd torque them. Mind you, that wrench, is one of those $10 ones from supercheap auto, so I don't trust the reading. It is a 1/2" drive one like 30 cm long, so it'd be possible to easily overtorque it. Anyways, I kept turning until about 1 full revolution past hand tight. 1. for those of you who have also used a torque wrench, did you also find that to get the correct torque, you had to go almost 1 full revolution? or have I f**ked it and tightened it too much? 3. For those of you who have engine building experience, or those of you who know about how far the piston comes up, do you think that the spark plug will be sitting too low down in the combustion chamber, and will the piston touch it?

Car modifications aren't for everyone. The alternative is to leave it how it is then you won't have to heat it in the oven. However, in answer to your question, you need to heat the silastic like compound to soften it.

hey ali, The link that gohan posted up is spot on the money. It is the only 'Real' and 'proper' way of doing things. r32 headlights are renouned for being the crappest lights ever. If you don't want to go the retrofit option, the best light you can get is probably a set of plus 50 bulbs, relayed so that they get the full 13.8 volts (instead of the 10-11 volts they usually get).

Do you know why the tutorials don't say to do it? I've found that whenever I read the tutorials, they are only a starting point. I can always improve them in many ways. e.g. for the rb25/20, I never lever the turbo off the manifold to undo the 24mm banjo bolt behind it, because it bends the line. I remove the oil line from underneath (1 bolt), then the water banjo has clear access without bending stuff. The people who wrote the tutorials may not be perfectionists like I am. I would prime it. But on the other hand, if I was to do it aussie style in a she'll be right fashion, I'd just fang the turbo in, start it, and fang it.

I don't like bendix ultimates. I'd take the stock pads over ultimates. good performance, and almost no dust. Having said that though, this is on the street car. Track pads are a different story.

boy does she chirp seconds

don't bother. Won't give you much noticeable difference. Your driving will have the greatest impact on your time.

definitely do the exhaust mani studs. Once you hvae the turbo off, it'll be so much easier. No point doing things twice. I reckon you'll break about 3-5 more studs if you don't have an oxy torch, or even if you do, you still might. That's not true about them breaking at all. I have a sII in perfect condition. I haven't tocuhed the studs, and they're all still there (from factory). replace them all, they're cheap. You'd literally smash your head on the wall, if you skimp on $20 and had to spend a few days pulling it down again because you didn't replace them all. your mani will most liekly be warped, so you'll need to get it machined flat again, rb30 gaskets fit, but you hvae to cut each port and use it separately. I'd just go genuine nissan, because those aftermarket gaskets are shit. gonna save $50 and have to spend 3 days doing it again and breaking more studs and having to pay someone to extract it again? Before someone laughs at you - that's not a water gasket. It's the oil return line. nissan

easy way to tell. gtr turbo has garrett on the compressor housing. does it say garet? or nissan?