MANWHORE

Who cares about what your parents say. I have a simple question for you. Do they know anything about cars at all? Secondly, have you gone past that stage where you realise that you've outgrown your parents? If so, then buy.

I'm scared about using things like quicksteel now. I did follow someone's ill advice to start off with, that's how the gasket paper got in there. Like, ok, maybe the paper didin't do any damage, but if the quiksteel breaks up due to my hard suspensions vibrating, that will do damage. That won't get burnt right up. If i'm game enough to do it again, I will most likely just grab the wleder out of the garage and hit it hard.

Is that real wood?

Contact Administrator for business sales. Stock hid never came out in all those configuration only d2s, d2r and d2c. Are you a scam artist? Also, got engrish?

Don't be scared. A clutch is strong and that's what it's designed for. It's designed to be used. Mate, anything you do aka driving the car uses the clutch. The clutch is just that, a consumable. The idea of the clutch is to slip a bit to allow the box and engine speed to be matched. In order to do this, it must slip. Any slippage wears it out slightly. I don't mean full rev it in half clutch. What I was saying, is that I judge the friction point, as mentioned by cubes, and give it gas. It's second nature and done by feel.

I need to use the aceelerator, but I have a fresh twin plate.

Stock suspensions will help give it a bit more squat. What size wheels? 16s will give it more squat if you used 17s or bigger for your run. Better tyres will do wonders. Pineapples (bushes) set to squat

I would stick with the wider wheeels quality wheels. I'm not a fan of those heavy chromy narrow ricer wheels e.g. tempe tyres wheels. 1500 will be pretty tight if you want to run good tyres. This is how i'd do it: every now and then you see decent jap wheels for sale on sau for cheap. e.g. just a few days ago, a set of avs lookalike wheels went for 500$. i'd do that, and then spend 1k on tyres. falken fk451 - in 17" ~250 each at tempe tyres.

Not to mention the fact that because they're stock turbos (reads small turbos running off 3 cyl each) and the fact that they're ceramic so you can't run high boost, each turbo won't be pushing much cfm of air. As a result, when the wastegate opens and lets the air out the screamer, this 'little' amount of air sounds bad, as mentioned above, like an exhaust leak.

Yeah, I don't want an aftermarket bov. The stock one does not have stalling or rough idle issues, no hassles from the cops, no need to spend extra money on useless stuff etc. Thanks fellars for putting my mind at ease. Jeez, the silly things we do sometimes. I actually did lose heaps of sleep over it. I keep reading on sau about even dust from the turbo killing the motor. I thought to myself shit, the paper would go in, and it'd get broken up, get between the piston and score the bore and piston....

Come on guys, it's a sreious question. Lets give him a serious answer. In regards to taking off from a standstill, it really depends on the car and the clutch. I'll give you two scenarios 1. rb25 with stock clutch. I can just release the whole clutch out (slowly of course) then give it gas. Or I can do it at the same time. 2. rb25 with twin plate. As the twin plate is very fresh and very bitey, it will stall if released at anything less than 1.5-2k rpm. In this case, I have to give it gas first.

the one on the crossover pipe. That little hole on the bottom of the bov. Unfortunately, the paper obviously went into the intake coz that's the only place it could have gone...

I was reading up before about people blocking up the little bleed hole on the stock bov. Someone said it can be blocked up by just sticking a little bit of gasket paper over the little bleed hole..... I thought this was alright at the time. Shock horrow, when I took my stock bov off the other day, the little piece of gasket paper was gone. I'm assuming that it got sucked into the intake and into the engine. It was about 5 mm by 2 mm. will this wreck my engine? and is there anything I can do about it?

How will lowering the compression help make him go faster? Also, re01 tyres are not suited to drag application.

Are you sure it's a hella kit? Sure it says 'powered by hella' on a sticker inside the box, but it says 'blesk' on the ballast. I'm not whoring your sale thread, I just don't want people to get ripped off.

You most definitely do not need 300+rwkw to break into the 11s. Sydneykid has told us about an r34 with 260 odd kilowatts that did an 11. An r33 is even lighter. I have a friend who is a good driver and on a perfect day, perfect launch etc, he just cracked an 11 with 250 odd rwkw in a 33 gtst on bfg drag radials.

from what I have learnt in the last few days, this is what I think. Jason has tried 18x9 +30 and it just fits. that is with 235 tyres. The +10 wheels will stick out a further 2cm than his 18x9 +30 wheels. So you'd have to run 2 cm narrower tyres. i.e. 215 tyres and maybe more neg camber. Am I right guys? I've read a lot in the last few days about offsets.

do you reckon you could do me a favour just for interests sake? Would you be able to weigh one of the wheels for me? with tyres on it that is.

Jase, I beleive you mean camber man, not castor? Camber makes the bottom of the wheel tilt outwards, is that what you mean? castor makes the wheel tilt forwards.

Thanks jase. I was hoping that it'd be fatter than the wheels that I have on there now. damn. hehehe.

I normall run 17 x 8 +32 with 235 tyres -f 17 x 9 +38 with 255 tyres - r I was sorta thinking about running the 17x8 +35 wheels since my tyres are low, but I didn't know whether they'd scrub etc. So if we compare these wheels to the wheels that I have at the front, what would the 3 offset difference be? e.g. would it be further away from the hub, or closer to the hub? Thanks jase

Gday fellars, I was wondering whether 17x8" + 35 offset wheels will fit onto the front and back of an r33 gtst? Will they be close to the guard? like will I have to run narrower tyres? Thanks

Sold. Tiimewasters have been added to the hall of shame.

BUT keep in mind, that if they write it off and pay you, it'll be a statutory right off, which means it can never be registered again.

It's not that bad. Since your car is insured, it's fine. If you were to fix it yourself, i'd say the amount would be between 5-10k.