MANWHORE

I was actually inspecting the unit today, and i seemed to notice a bleed nozel sorta like the brake caliper. Also, I don't think the fluid is ATF. My jap owner seems to have put atf into the tank on top of the existing fluid. It just floats ontop of the other stuff (which is black). i'm guessing it uses attessa fluid? I remember looking at a schematic diaqram for it before and it also uses oil pumps and stuff too.

Great engine. Only problem is the cars look as ugly as a dog's balls.

We did it on me mate's car: Remove those little rubber caps covering the bolts underneath. Undo about 3-4 bolts. Undo the wiring clip Stuck my arm underneaththe spoiler and lifted it up. Imagine you go hoink and its off.

kezza mate, i asked you the question about the bezels before in the other thread. i've actually got a question about the dials too. you knwo how you have a pic of an r33 cluster in your first post? check out the boost gauge. why is it still black? can you check otu whether the cluster kit includes the boost guage too? coz it would be a bummer if it didn't. cheers

Kezza mate, 2 thigns: 1. can you get the needle cap thingies? thye look really nice. 2. can you check to see whether the metal plate thingy is avaialble for sII r33? because the sII cluster is different and a sI one would look at bit weird. Cheers mate

come on guys, 6 views? surely someone must know

I have an r33 gtst. It has a-lsd (i have the lights on my dash) and it does appear to be working because the light does come on when I lose traction. I have a bottle of oil in the right hand side of my boot. I was wondering, how do I change the fluid in this system and what fluid do I use? The reason why I am wanting to do this, is to hopefully make it more responsive. Surely someone with an r33 or r34 gtr vspec has done this before? Cheers

Why does my r33 with a-lsd also have this said bottle in the boot? I have always been stumped as to what it is.

Since you've got an aftermarket rice off valve mounted on the intercooler piping, are you still using the stock one? Maybe you could just take the stock one off and cut a flat plate to go in its place and mount the temp probe in that?

The reason why the 2 piece dumps are not as good (reads quite substantially worse) is because the lengtht htat the split runs is very short. Furthermore, all the split ones i've seen are only 2.5" e.g. the HKS ones. Split ones are better. there have been dyno posts on sau demonstrating this. the benefit is quite substantial. I personally went the batmbl route. Stainless will last longer. Mild steel will last so long that it's just not funny. I have a mild steel catback that came with my car from japan. It is probably >5 years old and it only has a few tiny specs of surface rust on it. IMO, stainless is a waste of money. It's not even for looks coz you can't even see it under the heatshield. IMO the catco dump is not noticeably of better quality than the xforce one. As I have said above, the design is better. It has a long split. The xforce is a 2 piece dump/front with the dump being 2.5". Anything elese you should know? if you're planning on replacing it yourself, be prepared to drink many beers and scratch your head thinking a bit. Things are never straight bolt in. e.g. you might need to use an angle grinder on some of the flanges. The exhaust hanger will need modification to fit a 3" pipe. Regarding changing the dump for a turbo later on, you'll find that many turbos are avaialble for the stock 6bolt dump flange. You'll find these more than adequate unless if you're chasing massive power (reads >270 odd rwkw). It's no biggy anyways. If you're putting on a turbo for more power than that, most likely you'll need to be changing manifold flange too and many other things and having the wrong flange on your dump will be the least of your worries. Dump flange can be changed. Hope i've covered it all. I was feeling generous today instead of just telling you to search.

Why bother convince your dad? He's obviously an idiot. I guess a common problem with people when they are young is they look up to their dads. As I grew up, I realised how stupid he was and how it was pointless trying to keep him happy. How old are you?

Is this that ex motel that was converted to apartments?

seems aftermarket, so most likely some electronic gadget that the jap guy installed.

yes lang, believe it or not, ugly poo gtrs are 5 seaters from nissan. Although it doesn't look like you can sit on the hump, it is a seat. How do I know? when we brought in a couple of them (reads - my dad has 1, bro has one) they both had middle lap belts from japan. Your copmlier obviously removed them.

Seat belts did not have to be changed for compliance on later model cars. Only on rugly poos(32s). ugly poos had those thick matte belts. This is straight from the complier's mouth.

End of Story: r32s-34s came from nissan as 5 seaters. I.e. they all had a lap seat belt. There is no such thing as whether the compliance place bothered to 'install' a centre belt, because they already had one. There is no reason for them removing it either. Strange things happen, maybe it was cheaper for them to obtain their compliancing for that model of car by removing the centre seatbelt. Just check that the centre belt hasn't fallen into the hole. If it has, i'm sure you'll be able to find one off a wreck for like $20-50$. There will already be reinforced holes for the buckle and belt under the seat.

Gday mate, sorry if what I said seemed like it was an insult against you. I did not intend it to be. Like I said, I didn't understand and was only trying to learn. Cheers mate

I'm not trying to avoid it, i'm trying to learn and understandd. I believe that what you said is incorrect. Picture it like this. The reason why people always amp their speakers, is such that more power can be suppolied to the speakers. I.e. at low power levels, headunit can provide clean power, but as you turn it up, the internal amp can't handle it, and supplies distorted power. That is why you have the volume on low and amp the clean signal. If you're going to run the headunit on low volume, then there is no need for an amp. When I say I like low volume, I mean very low. As in, I would have to turn the volume on the headunit to at least double that volume before it would start to distort. So I just can't see how amping it would make the signal any cleaner, when the headunit's signal is nowhere near distorted yet.

Thanks for all the good advice guys. I'm still confused on something though. I have gathered this much: Stock speakers sound OK when powered by the headunit because the power rating of both are similar. The same cannot be said when running higher power speakers off the headunit. As per advice given by people in this thread, an amp is needed. This leads to the following question: I still do not understand about amping/power/volume. I would imagine that more power means more volume? Thing is, I don't want more volume. I don't like loud music. I like SQ. Am I wrong in saying the following: 1. stock 30 watt rms speakers powered by the headunit. If I put the volume at medium, then the speakers might be getting say 10 watt rms? 2. after market 100 watt rms speakers powered by the headunit. If I put the volume at medium, the speakers should still be getting 10 watt rms? How will it sound compared to the stock speakers receiving the same power? 3. amplified 100 watt rms speakers receiving 50 watt rms from an amp. If I put the volume at medium on the headunit, then doesn't that mean that the speakers will be much much louder since they're getting more power? cheers guys

price drop

bump, i'm back from holidays now.

4 doors are very common. They can be had on jspec or prestige for 15k+. People are taking them up instead of r33s.

I think that you can get a lot better for that price. e.g. there is no need to buy a rockford amp. check out the jaycar amps. very good amps at a great price. Also, I don't think you'll need 2x subs. from your user name, it says that you drive a corolla. THat will be fricken crazy loud. Just one good quality 12" will suffice. Have a look at some other brands. THere's no need to buy everything in one brand. check out focals and hertz. I also personally like the jaycar kevlar speakers.

well, the reason why I ask does power = volume is this: I don't like loud things. I don't want to go deaf. So from what peopel have said above, a stock 20watt rms speaker is well matched to just a HU because of it's low power requirement. Say if I install a 100 watt rms speaker, then as you guys have said, without an amp, it will sound shit. But so say if I get an amp,and say give it 30 watt rmw, does that mean that it will be very loud?