MANWHORE

falken fk451. Now replaced by 452. I've never tried the 452, but the 451 were very good. and not very expensive either. about 200 each.

it will be fine. the gases are not that hot. No, won't set of the knock sensors. I've run one of those before like that. If you have the little splitter in it, the exhaust gas doens't really leak at idle.

they come in either 6mm or 8mm. buy the correct one. the aunger ones are both 6 and 8mm, so they should fit anything. Be careful using those plastic cut it yourself ones. they might slip off. if that happens, your window will get scratched. Best stick with the metal insert ones.

1.2 bar. around 18-20psi

no one mentioned a seat. Get yourself a proper fixed back bucket like a recaro or bride. Don't get a gtr seat, coz try sitting in it, but they're no more grippy than the gtst seat. even though they look good, they're no better. With the stock seat, I find i'm always concentrating on hanging on for dear life instead of concentrating on driving.

because your car doesn't need 5 studs. Nissan does everything to saave cost. the cheaper cars don't get all the stuff the more expensive ones do. e.g. s13 has 4 stud.

Got engrish? I can't even understand what you've said.

well, there is no point asking people on the forum. people would need to see it to know. e.g. it's not like tick tick tick noise = this. tock tock = this. bing bam bong = this. Basically, try and listen to where it's coming from. turn off the radio and listen. Either one of you guys try and fix it, if nto, take it to a shop. BTW, if you can hear the wheel chopping the housing, the turbo will already be dead and maybe the motor too.

unrelated. doing that wouldn't ahve broken anything. i've done that many times.

Snap on isn't the only one that supply a lifteim warranty. Sidchrome or kingchrome - can't remember which one. repco superworks gold. BTW, I can't remember which one of sidchrome or kingchrome is the good one. one of them is shit. I think kingchrome is the shit one? I can't remember this other brand. I've got some oe their tools. They are also very good.

btw, what are you using atm?

snap on make very good tools. I used to have a set, but they were stolen from my shed. grrrrrrr. i've actually got a couple of the repco spanners. I tell you what, I cannot fault them. They are very good tools for their price. The do the same thing as my snap ons did. The most immprotant thing I have found when looking at tools is to bring a selection of bolts of various sizes and see how tight the spanner fits onto the bolt. Crap spanners seem to slip a lot. I was trying to install a dump into a friend's car and was using his spanners. they were shit. didn't fit onto the bolt properly. If you like the repco ones, go have a look at supercheap auto. I personally wouldn't use any of their jacks, electrical equipment, nothing. all that stuff is a joke. it's always recalled. but funnily enough, their spanners are pretty good. not the normal ones. they're called superworks gold. they come with a lifetime warranty. you break it, you get a new one. I have a set of the superworks gold now. very good tools. it has the needed sizes in metric and imperial. comes with ratchet and sockets too. My particular set only has a selection of the needed sizes. $179 Honestly, get down to supercrap auto and have look. BUT DO NOT BE TEMPTED TO BUY ANYTHING ELSE. It will either blow up. poke your eye out. chop your hand off. or just not work. I bought a trolley jack, and basically, it exploded and dropped the car.

i'd be looking at spending 20k+ if I was to buy a gtst again, but that's just me. I like things perfect. not one single door dent. no swirlies. no interior blemishes. engine compression like it is 1 day old. but like I said, I like things perfect. **btw, this is just generally. of course, you mgiht score a total bargain for cheap, but you know the saying, generally, you get what you pay for. trust me mate. you spend less, you'll end up spending it anyways. e.g. an immaculate one will cost 20k+. you'll always get these keyboard warriors saying you can get one for 15. sure, but look at this example. A friend of mine bought a 93 model for 11 k. was an auto. paid 2k to convert it to manual. engine blew - 6k rebuild. paint was shit, so he spend 2 k respraying. at this stage, it still was pretty crap inside. all the bushes and suspensions were probably still crap. I know which one i'd prefer.

How much if you don't mind me asking? just for future reference. You can tell me by pm if you like

I woulda bought them if they were in sydney. speedfreak says "you gotta consider that". Gtr seats normally go for 800-1k.

Why did you need the gtr rear diff assy? did you break any gts shafts? or was your diff just tired? what about getting just a mech diff? gtr rear guards? how much wider are you trying to run? couldn't a flare have done it?

I've got a generic strut brace for sale for r32. check out post 5 above. As good as any branded one. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=126242&hl=

Ok, let me try and explain how to do it. Take the indicators out. It's like one screw. then just pull it. take the wheel arch plastic off first. If you can't remove the clips easily, just break them. you can buy new ones from autobarn for like $2. Then take the bar off. you dont' ahve to take the headlight off. There are bolts under the wheel arch plastic. and bolts where the indicator was. the motors shouldn't be in the way, because the bolts you need to access to take off the front bar are no where near there. Secondly, you can't get off the reinforcement bar without first taking off the front bar. ther eis no need to take off that reinforcement bar. cut it on the car. easier. but if you want to take it off, it's only 2 bolts. they're not very tight either. Follow these instructions and you won't have any troubles. If you do it like this, the job will go from being a 10/10 like what you thtink it is now, to a 1/10. Cheers

I've taken off a few r32 bars/headlights/reos. The trick is you have to use the right tools. when you said you can't get a tool in there, what are you trying to get in there? a spanner? some bolts can't be reached by the spanner. also, a 1/2" ratchet and extension might be too big. I also have a 1/4" socket set for fitting into those tight areas. taking the bar off is a piece of cake. same as headlights. same as reo. I've never seen that active spoiler thing, but I suppose it'll have to come off anyways for the fmic. Even if it didn't, they're pretty gay. Just rip that off if it's in the way.

Ed, I've replied your pm.

Hey gary thought i might be able to save you some time. GCG offer a 10% discount to sau members, which works out to be about 1750 anyways. Cheers

What size are the rims? Depending on the size, you might not need engineering. You can go up 2" in size, so 18 is the biggest. I'm assuming that you have even bigger? 19? 20?

I forgot to say that this is an unbranded strut brace. But it is strong and very stiff. I can stand on it and the bar doesno't flex at all. It'll do the same job as a cusco or other named one at a much lower price. It's only a brace afterall.

Hey guys I have an r32 strut brace for sale. It is adjustible and therefore, I asusme it will fit gts/gtst/gtr. Anyone who is interested can try it on to make sure it fits. It is BRAND NEW - never been used, still in plastic. Location: North shore, Sydney NSW. Price: $80. Guys, this is brand new and has never been used. This is a great price for a brand new adjustible strut brace, but I will accept reasonable offers. PS: Its not really necessary for me to put up pics, because... well, it's a strut brace. Looks just like any other strut brace. The bar is polished metal and the two strut tower pieces are black. The condition is perfect because it's brand new.

castrol vmx80 is what the nissan service manual says. there are others that others recommend. I'm using motul gear 300/royal purple