MANWHORE

bump guys

i'm pretty sure that the inserts are not clipped/bolted on from back. I think it's just held on by double sided tape. I'm not 100% sure though, so maybe just try and pull it gently and feel for movement.

It's a good idea, but that's only in a perfect world. Unfortunately, there is the issue of legal liability. e.g. if someone helps you with that fuel pump and the car leaks fuel and blows up, you'll then try and get that guy to pay it. or if the pump leaks and blows up another guy's car, he'll come after him. Unfortunately, we don't have insurance.

SOLD

I've used these tyres 101 times and I swear by them. If we meet up today, i'll tell you all about them.

An r32 gtr came out with 225s on an 8" wheel. What Manwhor3 said is correct. Generally, on an 8" wheel, you'd fit 225s or 235s. It is possible to stretch 205s on. This will give firmer sidewalls. It is also possible to fit 255s on, but I wouldn't do it. It will actually decrease the traction around the corners. Sidewalls will be really floppy. It will look like a rounded blimp. At the end of the day though, it depends what purpose the tyre is used for though. If it is for drag only, sidewall flop doesn't matter because you're not cornering. in this case, a 255 tyre like a bfg drag radial would be good. But for cornering, I wouldn't do it.

If you had searched you would have found this. A thread that was on page 2 in this section. I am feeling generous though. I used the search button and found this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=101561

An identical question about 8" wheels was asked a few days ago.

the 235 is the right width for an 8" wheel. To find the right profile, use a tyre calculator and try and find one with similar outer diameter/circumference. I have 235 45 r17 on my front wheels which are 8"

Pete, You're an absolute champ in helping out forumn members with things like consult cables and the likes. I can understand that people might want to charge a little since it requires a lot of effort, but imo 300 for the impakt one is way too expensive. I thoguht about buying it once, but i changed my mind. It's one of those 'cool' things you you buy and look at a few times and that's it. Or when you're trying to diagnose a problem. Once again, you are a legend.

you'll be suprised. Depending on the type of strut brace. If you look at a stock gtr strut brace, there is no way the adjuster can work itself loose. It's hard ot describe. I dont' ahve a pic either. But imagine that you chop the brace in half. one side of the middle looks liek a bolt thread. The other is liek a nut thread. so it screws into the other side. You adjust it, then put it on, and there is no way it will change, unless if you take the brace off and adjust it. /yeah, I agree about the picture shown above. THat thing would literalyl do just about nothing.

that's not chunky. That's pansy arse just like the rest of them. I've seen this pick of a custom made one. It was literally, a thick steel tube welded to the strut towers. It was ghetto to the max, but it probably worked pretty well

Item: I have for sale a ford falcon AU coilpack unit and leads. These were purchased off another forum to be installed into my rb25. My coilpacks died, and i was going to install these coils as I had seen done on one of our threads. I preferred the external coilpacks, so they wouldnk't be sitting ontop of the motor and heat up and break again. Reason for sale: I've decided to sell it because a friend of mine gave me a set of spitfires for xmas so I no longer have any need for these. Price: I'm looking for what I paid for them, which is $100 ono. Location: Sydney. Contact Details: PM

generic ones at repco are the shiznit. They are between 10 and 15$ each. Trim to the right size and put in.

black is the goods

That's it. Seriously, an all girl's cruise is sexist. We're gonna have an all guys cruise. Location will be secret.

NO JAGO, NOT TO GET FLUTTER! By blocking off the vent hole, it makes boost build faster. It is designed to vent boost all the time to make transisition between boost and no boost smoother. I don't mind harshness, and I want quicker boost build. NB: don't hold me to this, I'm just going by what others like Skid have said.

The wheels are nismo lmgt4. The rear bar is a nismo 400r rear bar I think.. hahha

There is no problem changine gears while in a corner. E.g. if you area at a set of lights, you are at a long sweeper, you can't just go in first at like 7000rpm. Change, no worries. What the boys are sayingn is if you're going fast, or around a very tight corner, it's bad to shift throguhout the corner as you can lose control.