MANWHORE

Hahaha, it's not really off topic, because in order for us to decide on whether ELF is good, we have to ahve somethign to compare it to.

Yep, It does. I haven't had my car for very long. The compliance shop put in some castrol semi synth oil, which was probably middle of the range stuff. After about 5000 ks, the oil was the same colour as the motul 8100. I have not used another top of the range oil in the rb 25. Perhaps it would be beneficial for sau if people could list: 1. what brand and 'model' of oil they use 2. what colour the oil was after x number of ks. 3. the type of driving done durin the ks

Hi Sydneykid You're quite experienced, so can you please tell me more about oil going black? This is what i've noticed by doing some tests. If you put engine oil in a beaker, and heat it up really hot, it starts to smoke and burn. After a spirited drive, I also notice that a bitta smoke comes outta the engine on all cars (I've tried this on 4 cars). I was under the impression that the going black was due to the constant heating/cooling/reheating which changed the chemical composition of the oil rather than the 'detergents' acting to scrub carbon from the engine? your thoughts please?

I've found that my rb25 takes about 4.5 L when I change the oil filter too. If I don't change the oil filter, then it takes about 4.2-3 L. The cheapest price that I can buy motul 8100 for is $52 by buying them in bulk. I have never found ELF at less than $55. I have used 8100 ever since I got the car, and it has held oil pressure well, does not get black by 5000ks (only medium brown) and is not too expensive considering oil + filter costs around $60 (a garage will charge you about $80 for a change using their shit oil). So I stick with the motul.

you don't have to drive aorund with the box open. It does have room. If not, just cut the back of the glove box out. Don't stress aobut cutting it. I box from a wreck is like $50. That would be the best place to put it. I cannot think of another. Apart from under the seat or in the boot, but then every time you change the dvd you have to go to the boot. Do you use the back seat area of your car? I refuse to carry more than 1 passenger, so I just put stuf in the back seat area.

F1 doesn't use the same oil of course. ELF 10w50 is about $55 for 5L.That is similar in price to the motul 9100 5w40. I'd say that they would be similar quality. I've never used it , but I have heard good things about it.

most definitely not the same. rb20 gb is about 40? wrxhoon, correct me if i'm wrong. rb25 box is about 70 kilos was it? rb26 was 90 with the transfer case?

Hahaha. that's hilarious. I find my skyline very reliable. Unfortunately I cannot say the same about the Holdens that my dad has owned. I keep telling him, but he won't listen. HE IS A BOGAN. HE LIKES HOLDENS. Dad's vs bogandore was recalled 4 times in the first year. His vn before that was recalled about 3 times before he got fed up and sold it because it was such a pos.

Sold

Fellars, this is a big shame. CC is a great bloke, who has gone out of his way to organise this. He doesn't get anything out of it. It is not a crime to be unsure whether you want to buy something. Nor is it a crime to ask questions about a product. The fact is, if you were unsure whether you wanted it in the beginning, you shouldn't have confirmed you wanted it. Make up your mind first, then say yes. No one will shoot you, but it just means that your word means nothing. I have taken advantage of group buy myself. Good Product. Good Price. No issues. Straight plug and play. The product is tried and tested. It is available from a supplier in Sydney + best of all, warranty is obtained from the supplier, not some dodgy warehouse in Taiwan. CC - Sorry about the full inbox mate. It's empty now.

oh, I forgot to say. In regards to telling if it's recirc or not. An atmo bov will usually have a trumpet on it or at least some vent. I'll describe my stock bov for ya. Basically, it's on the back of the intake pipe, so that's one connection. Then there is the return line, which returns the air back to the intake system when the bov operates. there is also a small vacuum line to trigger the bov. All the aftermarket bovs i've seen sit in the same place, but they do not have the return line. By me calling it a return line, it may be slightly confusing, because it's not really a small line. It's big. Perhaps 3-4 cm in diameter.

Hi cc My car makes a very loud bov noise just using the stock nissan r33 recirc bov and a hks pod. So I guess, just because you can hear the woosh noise does not necessarily mean it's atmo. In regards to tightness, I've been in a mates car with an aftermarket bov. I noticed that when he accelerated quickly and released the pedal quickly, the bov would sound. At lower boost levels and when releasing the accelerator slowly, he'd get a flutter noise. That means that the bov is not opening at that level. So I guess what i'm trying to say is that you can tell if the bov is releasing pressure or not by listening out for the flutter v woosh.

How about a 3" straight pipe? it will sound very mean. Probably be about 110 db.

nw

I'm not sure if s I is the same, but on my s II r33, it's easy. Get under the car. You shouldn't need to remove the front bar. just turn the bulb holder, and pull it out gently. new bulb in. holder back in. Done!

64

Only exeption is atf in the power steering reserviour because atf = powersteering fluid

Safc alone does not necessarily lower the injector duty. Let me try and elaborate. say a car is running a flat 12 afr with a injector duty of 90. By using a FPR and upping the fuel rail pressure, this will make too much fuel get injected. So you use the safc to lower the amount. As a result of the FPR and safc combined, the car is now running a higher fuel rail pressure, yet it is still injecting the same amount of fuel with a duty of 80 and making the same power. raise the fuel rail pressure even more to further lower the duty cycle. If your car is running rich, that means it's injecting too much fuel. By using the safc to lean out the mixture, that is, inject less fuel for the given air, it is reducing the duty cycle. However, I don't think a slight correcting of the afr using an safc will lower the duty cycle that much.

Pat. It's chris mate. 1. check sparkies. cheapest and first thing to check. I'd recomend the bcpr6es (copper ngk). Stock r33 gtst is meant to run the 1.1 mm gap and 5 heat range. because yours is running exahust, boost etc, run the 0.8 gap and the 6 heat range. 2. coilpacks. Due to the location of the coilpacks right above the engine, they get very hot. They are, believe it or not made out of plastic, and the plastic cracks over time. Pull the coilpacks out and check for cracks. When I say cracks, I don't mean like massive ones. They form hairline fractures. Also check for burns on the plastic, because this may indicate that they are cracked, and the sparks are leaking out. (As said in 1. by running a 0.8mm gap spark gap, this can reduce the effect of warn coils. Reason? The spark will jump to the easiest place possible. If you run a larger gap like 1.1mm, it may be easier for the spark to jump out the edge of the coilpack through a crack). 3. AFM - you're running a hks pod which is oiled. Pull the pod off, and rub your finger on the black plastic inside the AFM. you'll probably notice your finger will be black. I did on my car, and it was. Solution? Contact cleaner from Dick smith. spray the shithouse out of the AFM element and watch the black stuff run out. (hehee, I suggested to do this last time). 4. How much boost are you running? when the stock ecu senses too much air flow, it goes oh shit, because stock, they're only meant to run 5/7 psi. It richens the fuel mixture and severely retards timing. It sorta feels like you've hit an invisible wall. It's quite violent. I found on my car that it started happening at about 11 psi (with full exhaust, pod, cooler, etc). You'll have to take me for a fang to show me what it feels like, because if I remember correctly, you were running about 10psi. This is about borderline for rich and retard because you don't ahve fmic (stock ic then becomes quite restrictive as you increase boost). Obvious things: 1. are you running good fuel? ultimate? 2. have you had your fuel filter changed recently? your car might be leaning out due to lack of fuel from a clogged fuel filter. unlikely though. 3. tried resetting the ecu? some notice it does something, others don't. I do. 4. how old is your cat convertor? is it blocked? quite unlikely though. 5. any vaccuum leaks anywhere? like any dodgy arse looking old hoses anywhere? hmm... that's all I can think of atm. I just got back from work...zzzz.. Cheers

exc, most certainly not brake fluid. Power steering fluid is an oil, whereas brake fluid is not an oil. It is hydoscopic whereas power steering fluid is not. I use either nissan powersteer or motul atf

It's much bigger inside. Outside is bigger too (reads wheel base wider). More weight. Therefore more stability on the freeway etc. I have had the pleasure of semi owning both cars and i'd say they are both very nice cars. If you get a nice sII r33 that is in good condition, you most likely won't run into problems. So many people own r32s and don't have too many problems.

rob 1981. You have pm.

I currently have some insulation tape for sale: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=80672 I found that stuff to be pretty good. I found that after a drive, my engine bay was very hot. The piping, especially the one that crosses over the engine was too hot to touch after a spirited drive. It worked well. Just as a test, after a spirited drive. I took the crossover pipe off to change the spark plugs. The inside of the pipe was only slightly warm, which I suspect was from the air which had been warmed due to compression by the turbo. Another added benefit, is it gives my car a race look and also covered up ugly rusty pipes.

I'd say your best bet would be to change your diff oil. Motul pa 90 is quite good for diffs, and at 20$ for a tin, you can't go wrong. it'll save you so much stress thinking about whether your diff is warn out etc. It is very easy to change as well. When I got my car and changed the oil, the previous owner must have never changed it, because it was black and so thick it was almost solid. Required a good two changes before the oil was clear. Lets just say that afterwards, I was smiling.

51utzr32 You have pm