MANWHORE

Mild steel does its job for exhausts, but picture this. you have 15 year old mild steel pipes, which have rusted significantly. the rust is flaking and being sucked into the engine. Not pretty.

I don't mean that they're hard to make as such. Just follow the instructions and it's like baking a cake. EXCEPT, it is so easy for things to go wrong. Solder Joints may look ok, but not contact well, wrong components, faulty components etc, components in the wrong place and many other examples. I was just saying that it's fiddly and it's not as easy as it seems. As an example, I have quite a bit of experience with electronics, and I made the jaycar ebc perfectly, but it did not work. Turned out the problem was I had used the wrong cable even though the plugs were the same.

That's what makes these things so annoying. It's the fact that one small component or link can be missing or in the wrong place which makes the whole thing not work. I'm not saying that this is you Pred coz you have experience, but i noticed that in the Jaycar EBC and DFA thread, many people were jumping on the bandwagon because of the cheap and attractive price realising that they couldn't build one and get it working.

To Buy It's cheaper. I'd buy it as long as if it's good quality piping. That is, if it's aluminium, or stainless. Mildsteel or cast iron is crap rubbish. It has to be in good condition as well. E.g. no major dents, and no holes. I'd replace the silicon/rubber joins though if they are looking old and sad

Ronin, what you said is correct, BUT I do not believe that is what mashrock and ferni were referring to. I think what they meant was as an example 235 45 r 17 on an 8 " wheel on the front and 255 40 r 17 on a 9 " wheel at the back. In this example, both tyres have the same profile, but different width. Furthermore, the sidewalls are relatively the same. In this example, this would work fine.

Incorrect. Do not bash it back in. It will just come out again. This is what they do at the compliance shop. They use an expander to make the hole a bit bigger to fit the restrictor in. They then use metal putty. That stuff works very well and is very strong. You knead it until it is warm and soft, then put it in. It is very strong.

Hi everyone I'm after some information on what can be done in regards to cleaning the following fuel system components after getting a bad batch of fuel. 1. Fuel tank - how do you clean it? 2. fuel pump - " 3. platic fuel lines - just replace since they're cheap anyways? 4. metal fuel lines - they are dirty inside, possibly rusted. is it possible for me to clean them? or is there a place I can take it to to get cleaned? or do I have to replace them - they're quite expensive though 5. fuel rail - appears to be a lot of crap inside - once again, can I clean, or take it to a place to have it cleaned out? or must I replace it. 6. injectors - take it to a place to clean? Where is a cheap place in sydney that cleans injectors? I don't need them flow tested. Cheers

I have used the nulon g70 addtive, and I noticed that it made absolutely no difference at all. It did not make it better when warm or cold. There are two schools of thought floating around sau 1. nulon g70 contains teflon, which lubricates better, making gear changes smoother, and diffs less noisy. 2. nulon g70 contains teflon, which is TOO slippery and makes the synchros slip. I've thought long and hard about which one is in fact correct, but my own experiements with it have not yielded any positive or negative resutls. Perhaps someone like sydneykid can comment on it.

Shit, my mate and I only just finished working on the car at 12midnight tonight, and I figured that you have to work tomorrow, so it's a bit late. Sorry about that. How about tomorrow night, as in 5 July?

It's easy mate. Undo all the screws. Then there are clips. I normally use a screwdriver to help the clips come out. you must be firm, but not too firm to break the clips. Just have a look. search also, it's been covered.

Hey CC I pmed you but you didn't reply. I'm interested mate, but I just wanna take a look at your car to see how bright it is, and whether it's too obvious (easily defected). BTW, were you on old pac today? If so, I was the black r33. Cheers

Most thermos do not cool as well as the standard clutch fan. After people install thermos, they usually notice that the temps run hotter. Therefore, you're setup should be alright, because if you were running the stock fan, it would be even cooler (that is, assuming that you have the same setup - i.e. it switches on at the same temp etc).

your front bar is a different colour blue. Is it chameleon?

I have to get something shipped from melbourne to sydney. What would be the cheapest courier?

Sure thing OC, we all beleive that a 16yr old will get a stagea and a golf r32. I'm just about to go buy a porsche gt3 and maybe a lambo as a daily driver. Perhaps I should buy an r34 gtr as a car to do my shopping in.

They look like the enkeis. I have a friend with these wheels. I can try and find out.

Get the FD. Who says they need to be rebuilt every 50000ks. Do you think anyone would buy one if a stock one out of the factory only lasts 50000ks? As it has been mentioned above, have an engine tuned wrongly, drive it at the rev limiter when cold, and it won't last. When set up properly, and warmed up properly, proper fluids etc, they'll cop a beating just like the RBs. Just as some people thrash RBs for 200000+ ks, rotor engines last a while too. In terms of performance, it depends what you mean by performance? Drag? Circuit? An FD will kill your gtr in terms of Drag AND Circuit work. I'd imagine that your gtr is mildly modded? so doing low 12s? The FD will do that easily. Furthermore, in terms of circuit performance, the car is about 300ks lighter. Can have a lot more power and response relatively cheaply. Weight is very balanced, unlike skylines. FD is a very nice car. I'm not being biased, I do drive a skyline afterall. Cheers

I've seen that Jap mag too think of pvc as no different to metal piping. You can connect it using silicon hosing and hose clamps. Or you can use that blue glue stuff and glue the bends on.

Damn it, I thoguht that sydneykid had put up the results? Sydneykid, any news mate? we're all dieing here waiting. Thanks Mate

they look like gtst wheels resprayed to look like gtr wheels to me. where does it say that they are 9"? if it doesn't say that anywhere then i'm 100% sure they're gtst wheels

How about the rest of the interior? The door trims, centre console - take the dash out etc. Have you got the roof trim yet? Since you've removed all the stuff at the back such as speakers, etc, have you removed the wiring? helped strip my friend's 180sx, and you'll be suprised how much the wiring weighs and it won't It won't cost you anything. Especially all the wiring under the dash. what I did was started to unrol the electrical tape that's wrapped around everything and start tracing back stuff you dont' need e.g. interior lighting, speakers, hicas wiring, etc. Trace it back to as far as you can, then just cut it. Light weight steering wheel rear window wiper motor and wiper itself weigh almost 2kg!!! Hi Sydneykid I have a question for you how did you get the catch can and oil filter relocator into the boot? isn't that an awfully long path for oil to travel? Cheers fellars

Note to self: never flick that switch or get boot lock shaved because it looks cool. sorry, I'm not mucking around though. ther eis a way. If you take the back seat off, there is this big metal panel underneath the seat. this has about 8 bolts on it. take this off, and you have access to the boot. the whole may be big enough for a small kid to crawl into to flick the switch (if you have a kid), or you can do what I had to do and use a metal rod or a stick to flick it.

Just as a guide: 6.5" is 205-225 - 205 is recommended for cornering, as 225 will have a lot of sidewall flex, but 225 would be good for drag. 7 is 205-225 8 is 225-235 (keep in mind the r32 gtr wheels are 8 inches wide, and are recommended to use 205 or 225) In regards to your wheels, you can probably squeeze 275 on, but it'll handle like shit. i'd recommend putting 225

Hi Sydney Kid Interested to see your dyno results. When I installed my gtt cooler, I did a before and after dyno on the same day, similar temps. At stock boost(8 psi because of catback and pod), I noticed boost increase by <0.5 psi, which gave an increase of about 3 rwkw. Not a real biggy. I imagine the effect would be exponential though. As more restrictions are removed, e.g. exhuast, and the boost is upped to 12+ psi, I believe I've heard you say that the boost drop becomes quite large across the stock intercooler, and so the gtt cooler should have more of an effect. I've been following your threads very carefully about the highflow turbos. I noticed that they can handle quite high boost through a fmic. the cooling capacity, as well as flow restriction on the gtt cooler would be worse than a fmic, so what would be a safe boost to run a high flow on? car is r33 gtst. Thanks mate

hi pinoi boy. I think I know what's wrong. When you route it using the sk method, it's fine. it's just running 7 psi, which the ecu doesn't mind. When you were using sydney kids load points, and then puttin git to 100 %, your ecu sees too much air and retards timing, thus all the spluttering etc. I'm guessing that your boost controller is working fine, the problem being the numbers you have put in. Also, I did notice that the stock restrictor is very very big. It was very hard for me to solder, but I managed to. Just put the bugger in a vice, and hold a soldering iron/blow torch to it until it heats up, then the solder will stick. Cheers