MANWHORE

he never said he wants to chuck a vg 30 into the skyline. he was asking about the turbo

I like the idea of that heat shield too, as it's not really concentrating the heat in the manifold or dump, it's just preventing it from heating up your intake etc. If you do go ahead with it, can I watch you make it? coz i wanna make something similar too. I am on a uni student's budget though....unfortunately. Another idea that I was thinking of doing with that mod too. you know how on the rb25, the intake pipe crosses right over the engine. It gets ****ing hot - above the coilpacks. I was gonna wrap it with that flashtac shit. It's at bunnings. there's a how to guide on here somewhere.

cc, i'd have to agree with you. I've read an article...can't remember where off the top of my head. basically, the results were 2 degrees cooler oil and water temps doing "normal" driving. they also highlighted what you said. at the back of the bonnet, there's a latch, such that if the bonnet is hit, it's locked in. the only way it can move is to bend up in the middle. when you raise it, it's not latched in, but rather gives you a nice haircut, or a headcut for some.

The solenoid looks like the one in the performance jaycar book thingy for cars. If you follow the diagram, it shows that the solenoid should be used to bleed off some pressure stock. Follow the boost hoses. I tried to give you a ring mate, but you didn't answer. Good to hear you got it working. I love the feeling of solving a problem

Sold ages ago

Tom, feel free to take a look at my kit before buying. that might give you an idea of if you can build it or not. The hand controller is pretty easy to build. It tells you the order of what to install first, then what etc. Furthermore, there are not too many components. The ebc is trickier (for me, it wasn't hard, but that depends on your kit building skills). The problem is, that it does not give you an order of which components to install first. But the common method is wire links, sockets, resistors, capacitors....leave ics last...then accesories e.g. switches. The problem is the number of components. There are quite a few. All you need is one mistake, and it won't work. E.g. putting components in the wrong spot. Polarised components (if you put the wrong way it won't work) such as diodes/ic/capacitors.... Also solder joints - all you need is one dry joint out of probably 100. When I was building my kit, I could not get the screen to light up. I checked every component and every solder joint 3 times. I almost ripped all my hair out...kidding. It turned out that I was using the wrong cable. Jaycar sell 2 types. DSE kits do seem to be much more structured, as in do this, do that. then that. But, overall, it's not hard. it's just fiddly. That's why it took me 2 days.

hey tom i can understand what you mean by it being difficult. I think a lot of people are jumping into this by looking at the price and thinking it's good value. it is good value, BUT, they are not the easiest things to build. I would say it took me a good 2 days to read (properly and thoroughly) and build both kits.

Hi Sydneykid Earlier in the thread you mentioned that there were certain disadvantages of the system. PErsonally, i've bought it, built it without any problems, and installed it, and programmed it. It runs very well. Holds boost very well. I was wondering if you'd be able to tell us the disadvantages as many people seem to be taking this mod up. Question: With normal ebc that bleed off the pressure, when the pressure is bled off, the wastegate won't open as early. But with this ebc, the solenoid is in series, so say if the dolenoid is pulsing at 50%, then what is happening at the wastegate? Is it flapping continuously many times a second like the solenoid? Will it get damaged? Thanks Sydneykid.

Gday fellow sauers I'm going to be guinea pig testing my baby with the jaycar intelligent boost controller kit. I'm not sure how long the solenoid will last, so I want to have some spare just in case. I'm located in Pymble, and i'm looking for any kind souls that have replaced their stock solenoid and no longer want it. Hopefully some people will be willing to let go of their solenoid for a small amount of money or I could shout you maccas or something (i am a uni student on a limited budget). Cheers

If you want firmer tyre walls when cornering etc, i would not go for 235. If you put on a 235, the tyres will be a bit wide. If you look at a 225 on an r32 gtr wheel (8"), the tyre walls are perfectly straight up and down. That's how I like to run it. so for the gtt wheel, i'd probably put a 215. But say for drags, it's different. Having a wider tyre is better, and you don't have to worry about lateral movement of the tyre, so putting a 235 on would be good.

um, why would you wanna put 235 on the front and 255 on the back? 255 is supposed to go on 9" wheels and 235 is supposed to go on 8" wheels It's not that you can't fit it on (you could probably squeeze on 275 if you really wanted to), but basically, it's just too ridiculously big for the wheel. You'll get the sidewalls crazily floppy, and the tyre might rotate on the rim. This is what I reckon is a good width: 6.5" (r33/r32 gtst wheels) - 205 7" - 205 or 215 8" - 225 or 235 9" 245 or 255

nah, I don't think it's hicas - 90 degree turns at 50-60 ks in HEAVY rain? try doing it in a shitbox commo or something. you'd probably spin out. It's called the law of physics. Better tyres, better susp setup etc will help.

Hi Sydneykid Just an idea about allowing ytou to switch the hand controller. Perhaps you could wire a switch to the dfa and the iebc allowing you to switch them off without turning off the igniotion. Then you can move the hand controller over. Cheers

bump

Fellars, I did not get a chance to take a good look at the tyres since they were taken off yesterday. Updated the status. Pics available on request.

I have replied all pms. chippagti and Matboy, i'll take photos of the tyres when it becomes bright and email asap.

Sorry, I forgot to say what type. It expands 10mhz and 20mhz simulataneously so you don't miss any stations.

1. Tyres - 2 x Bridgestone potenza GII tyres. 235 45 r17. There is about 2-3 mm of tread over the wear indicators on the main part of the tyre. camber wear on one side of the tyre about 1/3 an inch wide on tyre 2, and 1/2 inch wide on tyre 1. a few pieces of thread have come out on each tyre. If you're interested, make a reasonable offer 2. FM Expander - FM expander that allows you to convert your jap radio to use in Aust. It was very easy to install. Just plug it in. Type: expands 10mhz and 20mhz simulataneously so you don't miss any stations. Reason for sale: new head unit. Price: $50 3. Splitfire 2 5/8" guage cup in anonzised blue. This is BRAND NEW. Unopened. Looks very nice. Reason for sale: didn't use because I bought a smaller guage. Price: $40 I'm located in Sydney. Willing to post at buyers expense.

yeah, I got it. I know exactly what you mean now. My problem was I didn't wanna break the end rubber. But like I said above, now I realise that was stupid. And then how you need to use lube, other wise, it gets caught on that rubber tubing that runs to the other side. Thanks so much for your help mate. It's sorta harder to do on skylines isn't it. On toyota soarers, they've actually got a little grommet about 2 cm wide that go straight (not offset) through the firewall. That's big enough to pass just about everything through. Thanks again col gtsx and all others.

Fellars, i'm sorry, but I have to disagree. Doing a dyno, I got an extra 4 kw. but that could be anything - better fuel, cooler day, different dyno etc. the increase in size is negligible. Compare this to fmic where people gain 20 kw - now that's obvious where the gain is from. think about the cost - new fmic available for 220 in for sale section. piping from diy section using silicon fixtures - 250. that makes a fmic installed for 470. why would you spend 100-150 for an r34 gtt cooler? even if you sell your stocko one, they go for like $50. Hardly worth the trouble. to do it properly, you have to take the front bar off. I could slip the cooler in, but not the air duct. had to take the bar off.

are you sure it's co2? that's carbon dioxide and it's a biproduct of the combustion reaction of petrol. That'll mean there's less oxygen to burn, and therefore less power. Are you sure it's not no2 (liquid nitrogen).

3months is nothing mate. I'd be worried if it was say 1 year +. Our cars have probably sat in a holding yard in jap for like 6-12 months before purchase.

I don't think that he's asking what we think about the software: "I just got a gps for my ipaq and i need some software for it. Please let me know if you have any of these." I think he wants a copy.

hahhaa, I guess htat's just me being me again. you know how when you just get the car you love it to bits. you don't wanna drill holes anywhere, don't wanna break grommets etc. Thanks mate.

perhaps you forgot to put the handbrake down? or the hand brake it adjusted too tight?