The Dan

My daily Mitsubishi Mirage is currently running 80% E85, next week will be 100%. All stock cept extractors and air filter. I run Castrol Magnatec in that. If the oil light comes on, I might top it up with some Coles oil but I don't like to spoil her too often with that good stuff.

Exedy HDB will suit your power just fine. I would look into reasons why the clutch is slipping. Has anybody bothered to look at it and determine why? You must lubricate the spline on any new clutch or warranty will be void. Its tools who put too much on that need to be shot

I don't know for absolute certain whether it causes a problem or not and which oils are ok and which are not based on personal testing or experience/knowledge. But when the Motul rep comes to my shop and asks if we use E85, then tells me we are not to use any Ester based oils, I don't question it, it's not worth the risk. I sent an email to Redline but they didn't respond. I asked around some of the V8 supercar teams we are close to and they all said they hadn't heard a lot but they were looking into it. Everyone knows E85 is new, it could just be a freakout from a couple of failures and they wanted to wait until testing was finished but I am still waiting for anyone of them to tell me it's ok to use. In the meantime i still think better safe than sorry so we'll use the oils from companies who have done the testing and can guarantee their product is ok with it

That information is going to be literally impossible to find. Someone should make a sticky thread and put RB26 dyno results and mods list inside it. That way everyone could read about this sort of stuff and make educated decisions

Exhaust manifold is the same, inlet manifold is different at the head but same a the plenum so you should be sweet there. Having it already solid lifter makes things a lot easier. What lb specs are the Tomei springs?

I've done CP's at 18 and 20 without an issue whatsoever. Even with 26-28 psi. 28psi with a normal healthy 15-20% leakdown past the rings is A LOT of pressure/flow of air into the crankcase. Managing the pressure is the only hard part. We are working on a solution currently that will virtually eliminate all other oil control problems In your above post you did say a 5thou gap apart from top to second. He is running 20 top and 24-25 second. This is still around 5thou difference. TBH its always better to go slightly bigger on the second ring but it won't stop the blowby. 10thou and 15thou are pretty tight. I would want to see some evidence of a high boost, high hp application and see the gaps myself to agree but I'm always keen to learn new things. Bore hone has a great deal to do with how the rings will bed in as well. Are you sure the breathing engine you might have seen was not breathing heavily due to another reason?

I wasn't referring to your post. You are right though, they are restrictive for the size but still a 260/270 setup I think would be optimal

What Nismoid said

Yeah as said above it's not ALL Motul oils, only the good ones Ester based = no good for E85 And to reaffirm Noels statement on the RP vs Penrite - RP do a thicker grade of oil we just don't care to bring it in. RP has just been getting dearer and dearer every year. Penrite Sin 10 and 20 have tested equally to the Racing RP and 10W40 RP in all independant tests we have seen. I spoke to the distributor in length about it and they assure me its suitable for E85 also as they don't use the Ester base stocks. Their film strength is equal to the RP racing oil and about 50-100 times more than any other Full syn oil on the market including Mobil, Redline, Castrol, Shell.....any of them

yeah pretty much. I haven't seen it because we don't often play with standard cams but I have been told even the stock camshafts in RB26's and 25's are way off for lobe angle and lobe timing. Always pays to check.

Neo heads are the best if you are going custom plenum or staying with the stock inlet and plenum. Can make 1000hp on that gear if you don't want to change it from standard....just port match the inlet to the head you have. The neo heads are solid lifter already but the springs are not going to do the job so a set of supertech double valve springs (I'm 99% sure they do them for neo). You won't make 700hp on a 63mm turbo. You might almost maybe almost get there on a 67 but that would be pushing more than 2 bar I think. Neo is better also because you can keep the VCT. We do a VCT camshaft set to suit and will be better than any other bolt in option for a Neo for that turbo setup. Forget port and polish, most people don't know wtf they are doing and the ones that do won't tell you how. Just clean up the intake and make the bowl area less sharp and daggy, most benefits from smoothing the edges of the combustion chamber area around the valve entry and exit to remove the high point that Nissan put there. Don't touch the squish area. It's there for a reason. Removing it is not only a waste of time but you will lose HP. If you want a good V8, port the squish area, those pushrod dinosaurs are so inefficient they'll shit hp out the doorhandles instead of the wheels. Turning the boost up will not net you any more gains from the amount you made previously. The valve springs just cannot handle the pressure and you will lose efficiency there until new springs are in. The rest of the setup looks good. By mains girdle do you mean one of the aftermarket billet ones? They are truly a waste of space. Japanese and Local RB's have been making reliable 800-1500 hp on standard girdles for decades. Don't fix what isn't broken. I have only seen two main bearing failures on an RB. 1 was when the girdle wasn't tightened down and 2 was someone clamping a gearbox up against clutch assembly then forcing the crank to turn when it was seized due to improper fitting. 10k and the mains were shagged starting from the thrust outwards. It has never been a problem on RB's and never will. If you are busting main bearings, then you have some other problem that needs fixing If the bottom end is already build with this then leave it, it costs too much to wind back the clock now. The trust cooler - is it a ~100mm item? Apart from the aforementioned changes you sound like you are on the right track. I love seeing a good RB25 crack 500kw. Go with the bigger turbo

Also supertech to replacement buckets for about $20 each I think. They are also lighter than factory and can be used on reduced base circle or standard. You just need to tell them which you are using.

-5's are not small turbos. I would put them in the 35R - T04Z category of which 270 degree @ 50 is usually spot on. In fact put 290's in there and I guarantee you will not do anything but make hp and make it sound angry. Yes idle vaccum is 0 but if your tuner is good this won't really matter. 260 and 270 on the cams you mentioned are perfect for the setup. 10.25 mm lift is spot on. When your head guy relieves the area beside the bucket for the lobe clearance, just make sure he doesn't go too deep and only take off enough to clear. Too many times I see people have so much take off in this area and they go too deep down the bucket area. The side load on the buckets are huge at this point, especially at high rpm. Removing too much will actually cause the bucket to wear and possibly seize in place

Ring gaps are not quite as important as they used to be. Ring design and improvements in material mean there is a much wider tolerance allowable and as long as you don't run under the usual minimum, then you will be ok. Of course going too large can be a problem but 0.007 per inch will still give you no blowby whatsoever on any of these jap engines. Some people will tell you that the rings need to be gapped wider because you are going to make 800hp but in reality the temperatures are controlled to a certain degree in the tune at these levels as I would like to assume you will be running individual cylinder EGT's. 0.005 per inch still runs true for the manufacturers you mentioned. We use all of those brands and they are all the same for minimum gap requirements. Always add another 0.001 per inch for every 150 shot of nitrous it will see to be safe. Usually on anything that is going to see a decent amount of hp above factory levels on an 86.5mm bore I run 0.020 top and 0.002 more on the second ring minimum. This gap doesn't mean a lot, just make sure its 0.002 more at least than the top gap. Don't worry about your oil control rings, they will be something like 0.040 from what I see on most. Do not ever touch the expander and you never usually have to touch the rails 0.020 and 0.024 are perfect for what you are doing, even if it was going to see Nitrous up to 150 shot

Ashdown Ingram sell them

A good example would be a Tomei camshaft. Their catalogue may refer to a camshaft being 260 deg and 9.15mm inlet which is a Poncam for a GTR. The 260 degrees is from the point where the cam lobe is lifting @ 0.050 (50 thou) until the point at which it is closed to 0.050 (still open slightly). The advertised duration may be something like 295 degrees because it is measured at 0.004, 0.006 or sometimes up to 0.020. It depends on the manufacturer and the application the cam is being used (solid vs hydraulic) as to where they report their lift. Most try to stay at the 0.050 for ease of comparison but some will still report advertised durations. If you get two camshafts with the same total lift and advertised duration but different lifts at 0.050 inches, the one that has the smaller lift at 0.050 would indicate the ramp is very fast because it has to get from the smaller lift at 0.050 to the overall lift which is the same on both shafts. This means the valve is opened at a much more accelerated rate. Air speed into the cylinder is slower but the cylinder can draw it in much more quickly. The engine with this cam will make power a little earlier even though the duration and lift can be reported as the same. A slower ramp means air speed increases more efficiently into the cylinder and much more smoothly at higher rpm so the power is made slightly later. You can still get a pretty good idea of what a cam is going to do from the basic lift and duration that the manufacturer - especially the japanese brands who don't give you any real information on the profile but it's not always the case when you are buying custom made or cams that are made locally *edit* I should also point out that the timing of the lobe is very important as well. Having them open and close at the wrong time is just as bad as having the wrong lift and duration for the turbo that is fitted (camshafts should always match turbo the same as torque converters should). We recently dialed in a set of Surecams on a GTR that was making about 450hp at the wheels. The lobe was way off. So far, in fact, that we had to move the camgear on the belt one whole tooth and then adjust it further to get the correct opening at TDCE. It made a further 80hp when we did

Yep, you pretty much have it there. Advertised duration is different from duration at 0.050 open as well. Ramp rate, advertised duration, duration at 0.050 and overall lift all have an impact on what the camshaft will be like in the engine. Two cams with the same 0.050 duration but different advertised duration will have different efficiency at different RPM. I apologise if this makes things more confusing but it's just to point out that looking at a cam that says 270 x 11.4 tells you nothing about what the cam will achieve. Knowing all the information is critical to knowing exactly how it will perform. LSA is important for scavenging effect as the boost pressure or inlet fill will push the exhaust gasses across the top of the piston and out the exhaust while the valve is still slightly open. LSA has other functions but this is part of it. Timing the camshaft is just as important as getting the lift and duration correct.

As suggested - rub them lightly with wet and dry sandpaper. If, after that, your fingernail gets caught on any pitting or imperfections, they will be no good for use in any reliable form. As for camshaft sizes, 270 x 11.4 is nothing. Lift is critical for maximum torque gain. Duration is what will effect the RPM range of its efficiency. And even then, are they 270 at 0.020 or 270 at 0.050? What is the ramp duration? If no one knows the answer to that then speculating what they will and won't do is a silly idea.

The octane rating of your missus is insufficient

Anti DIY tight

Yes if you have one from an actual N1 then you should be fine

Get to know your engine now, it won't be around for long with that pump on the front of it. I haven't had an N1 pump survive any type of road use let alone track use in the last 4 we sold and half a dozen failures we saw on customers cars that came in the door with 0 oil pressure due to smashed gears. One of them was a car that was trailer to the dyno and didn't even make it through the tune

Is this car going to be circuit raced or drifted?

Why was the piston out of the slave cylinder??

I have only ever seen these break on heavy twin and tripple plate clutch setups or when the clutch spring seizes. I wouldn't call them a weak link. If the people replacing clutches have properly greases the pivot ball, it should never break unless the above conditions are met. It's likely the retaining clip for the carrier was not on properly or the pivot ball retaining clip was not on correctly Not common unless someone didn't do it right when the clutch/ball was done the first time