kwazza11

Hey guys, well the old K27 has given up the ghost so its time for an upgrade, i'm chasing the same sort of power but am thinking of getting rid of the high mount and ext gate setup and running a hks cast low mount with an internal gated turbo. i've been hunting around for a suitable turbo but everyone on the forum using a Garrett on an rb20det seems to be either in the 220kw range (GT28RS, HKS2530) or 270-280kw (GT30). i'm only chasing around 240-250 and that would be at max boost so what is there available in between these? the td06 such as roy is using sounds ideal but dont feel like chasing down another manifold and my current one is split pulse so wouldnt really adapt to the trust flange very well. and i assume you cant get t3 flanged housings for the TD06? any advice would be muchly appreciated Cheers Karl

Hey guys, chasing a pair of gts-t rear calipers with all clips and pins preferably. pm or email me on [email protected] if you have what i'm looking for Cheers Karl

Youch! i hate hearing dodgy workshop stories like that! better off to cut your losses and go straight to a transmission/gearbox specialist, even if its just to get them to have a quick look at it, should be able to tell straight away. and the bearings in the box will quiten down when the clutch is in as it takes the load off them and stops the input shaft spinning. hopefully it fixes itself Cheers Karlos

Sounds to me the cheapest way around it would be to use the GTR PFC, gtr injectors and a Z32/Q45 AFM. get all that for the price of the AP Power FC. so with adjusting the AFM voltage to suit one AFM i take it you just go to the appropriate screen on the commander (PIM volt?) and change it from 100% to 50% right? can the same be done with the exhaust sensor? and do you need to run an rb26 exhaust sensor or are they the same accross the rb range? also can anyone say whether the tacho output on the rb26 ECU is the same as the rb20det? or will the tacho be out aswell?

Yep but i've removed those pipes and blocked one line which goes into the back of the thermo housing and plumbed the other into the rear of the manifold. was thinking about just looping them but thought if theres a high pressure side and a low pressure side i might feed one into the other and disrupt flow (if you get what im saying)

Hey guys, Basically i need to make sure my coolant lines are all in the right place so need a coolant flow diagram for the rb20det if one even exists..? so if anyone has the translated engine manual for the r32 is there any chance of it being posted up? long story short is i've put on a non-watercooled turbo and different manifold so need to know which is what and where to plumb back the lines. its still being tempramental and want to be sure i havent disrupted the flow by plumbing the coolant lines around the wrong way. Cheers Karl

ok sounds easy but wouldnt the ecu then think your using twice the airflow than you actually are?

so can you select a single AFM option on the rb26 power fc? ie if you wanted to go with a single Q45 AFM on your rb26? if so makes it alot easier to get a rb20 up and running, use a q45 afm, gtr injectors, gtr PFC, ends up being dirt cheap in comparison. also anyone able to spin some light on whether the tacho outputs are the same on rb20/rb26?

hey guys, I know its not for a skyline but just put in a Power FC and 800cc sard injectors on a JZA70 supra and cant for the life of me find out the lag times of the injectors to input it into the FC. anyone know or can put me onto someone that would? Cheers Karl

should be a sticker on the side of the ecu itself, mines also a silver case where the version 3's case is gold i think. god knows why they would have software that is incompatible with previous versions though.

yep, not real happy either. apparently BD4's dont even have the version 2.1 tuning software either so all i've really got here is a big worthless paperweight.

no mine is a ver 2.1 its just the grey but says Pro version 2.1 on the side.

well i gave it a try but the light didnt come on and the file saved is blank. just to check the pins you've used on that 9 pin connector are 5-green 3-yellow and 2-black right? and stop hijacking this thread with wolf crap!

Sounds easy, will give it a try but what program do you use to view the file once downloaded?

that link is broken. so how are you accessing this calibration file? in aus theres very limited places you can get to tune these ECUs, so no one knows much about them..

The car has a 16" thermo fan mounted 5mm back from the radiator with the OE shroud, but its just a cheap repco jobby so probably not the best for flow, intercooler is a modded 33 GTR one so not overly thick and yep the undertray is still there. could be a winner on that one, the car is tuned very rich (mid 10s past 5k) and havent checked the timing up top, still waiting on a certain tuner in adelaide to get Fcon V software before i can do much about that though... : will get it back on the dyno this week and get the timing checked and see if anything can be done. yep! Cheers Karl

just using the stock temp gauge for the moment and it gets to 3/4 to full and to the point of boiling in the overflow tank if i'm not quick enough to shut it down. radiator is 10-15mm thicker than the one that initially came on the car as for whether its entering through the combustion chamber, well i'll do a gas test on the coolant tomorrow and see what i get from that.

i doubt it would split the signal if you connected them parallel as the AFM signal is just a voltage, so splitting it would mean you effectively get both identical AFM inputs. so how about the tacho output? is the rb26/rb20 output the same? this could be an escape from the fcon V i'm locked into with my rb24..

My car has developed the rather annoying problem of overheating when its subjected to lots of high rpm full acceleration. basically its fine in day to day driving, even hot days peak hour traffic it doesnt skip a beat but as soon as i'm in the hills or do a lap or two it starts to cook and if left unchecked will just keep rising! i've tried pretty much everything, thermostat is new, water pump is new, radiator was stripped and cleaned, all hoses were also changed 2 months ago, tried different coolants, oil cooler, fully wrapped exh, manifold, turbo and oil lines insulated etc. nothing seems to help. so i got thinking and thought mabye theres air being pushed into the cooling system through where the manifold butts to the head, i know its a long shot but has anyone heard of this happening? would the pressure difference be enough to blow the gasket? 14psi boost v 12psi rad pressure... any oppinions/ideas? Cheers Karl

got any numbers off the chra? just want to check if i can get a non gated t4 .63 housing if i buy one cheers Karl

So i dont suppose these consult cables can be wired into a nics rb20det newkleer?

You get alot of keyboard commandos on forums, pay no attention to them. nice power though, too bad about the massive lag, i thought my car was laggy! and i'd be getting a second oppinion on the whole wastegate too small idea...

I wouldnt recommend trying it unless you have the know how as you really need to get all your synchro clearances correct and make sure everything meshes correctly otherwise you'll end up with another screwed box a month down the track.. there are quite a few bearings in a gearbox, theres the main shaft bearings and counter shaft bearings, input shaft one plus a whole collection of needle rollers for each cog. basically mine let go due to too much lateral forces on the bearing (full load up a hill in third for alittle too long), the bearing basically melted and most of the balls popped out the back of the cage. the arrow points to where the bearing is that let go. IF yours has the same problem i had, the whine is caused by too much lash on the gearsets due to the shaft wobbling around. best to get someone to check it out though, take it to someone who knows thier nissan gearboxes.

woops double post

Well i'm not sure whether the r33 boxes have the same weaknesses but i only suggested the main shaft bearing because thats exactly the symptom and cause of my old r32 box, when i stripped it down to repair it the mainshaft bearing had all of 4 balls left in the race...