kwazza11

sounds like it could be your mainshaft bearings giving up the ghost. is it dead quite in 4th?

alittle off topic, but can you keep your r32 clutch and flywheel when you fit the r33 gearbox?

Meh, too late i ordered it anyways... nothing a couple 90 degree adapters wont fix. thanks Steve. stay away from the Saki!

whats the price for the ap rb20det pfc and controller?

sounds good! just one question, what are the dimensions of the core and size of the fittings?

do you sell just the oil cooler? i've bent mine so only need the cooler.

i was going to write a long reply but dont have time.. taso84 has a point though, (although directed at entirely the wrong group) these sort of articles are nothing but media propaganda. they make it sound like theres hundreds of 'hoons' but most of those photo's were more than likely collected off the net or thier achives and are probably not even in the same area. typical media blowing out a story to make for some good reading.

got the same problem as roy, need to keep the revs nice and high to bypass the lag. mines set at 7500 and is still climbing rather well. cams would definately help but might look at raising it another 300 or so.

so t518z aside, what it seems reddrifter is looking for is a t3 turbo that will make 250rwkws with maximum response. by the looks of the specs on the turbo it would be better than your average gt30r right?

So whats your cold starts like with the fcon silver gts-t? mine has very doughy throttle response until its atleast had a couple minutes to warm up.

hey. looking at changing turbo in the very near future and want to keep the manifold and gate setup already on there. so the question is, what is the smallest t4 flanged turbo available? can you get GT30 housings with a t4 flange? are there any other ball bearing cored turbo's available to suit? i'm looking for something around the .6 - .7 AR as i'm only chasing ~240rwkw and want something that spools around the 3.5k mark. i have looked at the T04Z but they all seem to have huge wheels and are over the 500+hp mark. any thoughts? Cheers Karl

RB24DET Tomei pistons GTR rods/crank Tomei HG Standard head and cams Modded GTR Plenum Greddy high mount manifold Trust Ext Gate 3" exhaust + standard cat KKK-K27 turbo Moddified GTR FMIC 220rwkw@12PSI Laggiest setup i've driven! lots of things to work on though.

already seen. performs well, thats IF you can find someone to tune it. atm i'm waiting on a tuner over here in SA that says he's trying to develop some software for it. other than that its only BD4s that can tune them AFAIK. as soon as i can get it tuned the turbo will be downsized. KKK-K27@12psi

my gtr greddy manifold was modified in japan to fit an rb20 by simply welding, machining and drilling extra tangs onto the flange. the ports still line up perfectly. ie instead of \ \ \ / / \ its now \ \ \ X X \ (yea dodgy explanation but i'm sure you get it)

very nice fat-gtsr. what after market ecu are you using? i take it its not a pfc from the lack of afm? no porting or cams? how did you measure the stroke without removing the head? verniers down the plug hole? could be just an rb20 crank with 82mm pistons? and your right about the box. i'd be looking at a rb25 one very shortly. either that or use 205 tyres on the rear MAX. my rb20 box has just about destroyed its main shaft bearings again with only 220rwkw.

rofl

exactly the turbo i'll be downsizing to with my 2.4 once i can find someone to tune the fcon V ecu.. my car made 220rwkw on 10psi and insanely rich afr's with the k27 but its way too laggy for a street car (full boost at 4.8k). basically useless in the hills unless your on gorge road (open mid speed corners).

Water pump is brand new as is the radiator, and no coolant leaks that i can see. will pressure test the system tomorrow after i rebleed the system, has a modded plenum on it which has no bleed screw so should be a right bitch to bleed all the air out of it again... afr's are rich when on full load, in the low 11's and perfect on cruise but haven't checked timing, could be a factor with the bodged jap tune of my fcon v pro. only really cooks when i start boosting it for longer than a couple squirts so could be on to something.

yea was just checking that i hadn't been running a lower pressure cap. but i think the problem lies elsewhere. clutch fan comes off tonight and 16" thermo goes on with standard shroud. hopefully that'll stop it boiling and pushing all the coolant into the res when i start giving it stick.. Oh and its only done 60km's since every hose and clamp WAS replaced. about enough to get to the dyno then lobethal and back!

Hey guys. what cap pressure do r32's run? the one on it at the moment is 90kpa. that is all

ar is unknown probably a .82, wheels are huge though, 72mm front and rear! its a kkk k27 and apart from that i've got no info on it. bought the car in japan with the gtr crank and rods with tomei 82mm pistons already in it. havent actually pulled the sump off and measured the thing but from the feel of the motor with standard everything its definately more torquey than my last rb20. and yea manifold is 2/3rds rb26 and 1/3 rb20. basically rb26 injector bosses welded to the plenum then that welded to the end of a rb20 manifold. not the most advanced piece of kit but should do the job now that i've ported it to get rid of the weld protrusion they left in there..

Well finally drove my car today after 3 months off the road putting all the original kit on (had to do pretty much everything again as the crazy japs bodged everything). but anyway feels fast, very laggy though, as in doesnt pull boost till about 4k and full boost by nearly 5k (even with the rb24).. hopefully get it on the dyno on monday to check that everything is sweet a/f and knock-wise and i'll post up my results. gearbox doesnt sound promising, gave it two quick squirts in 3rd to about 6k and its already sounding like the mainshaft bearing has collapsed. update early this coming week and hopefully gearbox lasts the dyno run and i can make it into the club dodgy phone pic:

i connected the bottom fitting to the cooler plumbing just after the turbo outlet. its just an educated guess but i'm thinking when the throttle shuts the high pressure in the cooler plumbing pushes on the valve to assist the vacuum from the plenum to overcome the spring pressure. mabye this is why your BOV doesnt like to open... but i could also be totally wrong.. heheh

So your bov doesnt have 2 hose fittings? my type R has dual ports.. one above the diaphgram one below. does it look like this?

sounds like its definitely seazed if your wound it out 8 turns. winding it out will take the spring tension off it (ie make it open easier) off topic, where are your 2 vac lines run?