nitemare5

apparently the GTR cooler is good for around 250rwkw

you guys are cheaters, stock ecu for life! :wassup:

there's a current thread explaining the differences in the forced induction section

it's not all about the psi , it's about the airflow as ed has pointed out.

Well majority of the people do the cat-back first so there might be a reason why, then they do the front/dump/cat later on. But you save on the labour part if you just do it all at once, just my 2 cents.

My 3rd gear pulls relatively nice, but i have that common flat spot that everyone seems to have since i'm running over 10psi (running 0.8 bar).

Putting on the front mount now won't do any harm, you might see a little increase in power, or none at all. But it won't hurt and it makes more sense doing that first to save on tuning costs, so you are thinking right imo. On the subject of doing it all at once, i wouldn't recommend it, as you'll get used to the new power just the same, better off doing it in increments as you feel the power gain through each mod, and seem to appreciate it alittle more. Just my 2 cents. The S-AFC-2 has the knock sensor, more adjustment rpm points (8v12) and you have smaller adjustment increments of 200rpm, instead of 500rpm compared to the S-AFC 1 I believe. I just recently got my S-AFC 2 (new) through nengun, $420 this includes shipping to my door.

just get it all the way through, do it right the first time

with the help of strutto, took only a few seconds to set the knock sensor , not very hard at all when following the manual

mine are getting between 0-10 last evening, but on a hottish 29 degree day like today, i'm starting to see readings between 15-25

I got a daiken H/D button clutch, cost me $500. Not a bad replacement, and can hold a fair bit of punch too. I got quoted $250 for a standard clutch. (these prices don't include fitting).

ahh ok fixed it, thanks

yeh there is an X in the right hand corner

BATMBL if recall correctly. It was a fairly large thread.

Just installed a S-AFC II on my r33 gts-t, everything was ok except for the knock sensor. I followed the instructions correctly as far as i know and everything seems to read ok except for the knock sensor, it always sits on 0. I've tried both knock sensors on the ECU and i get the same result. Could it be that my knock sensors are stuffed? or have i just installed it wrong. Any help on the matter would be greatly appreciated.

count me in, need s-afc tuned

There would be some little power increase but the restriction will always be at the smallest point, so you'll still have some sort of restriction at the cat-back exhaust and/or cat if you have some compliance cat. It'd be best to do the whole lot.

What tastes better, pepsi or coke? Dude that's just personal choice/preference, you'll get 3000 conflicting opinions which won't actually help you. Just choose a bar you think looks good.

I've got some mixed reports about this trick. 2 of my mates that have done it said they've actually gained some response, while me and another mate have actually lost some response when doing this mod. I guess whatever works and what you're happy with

I think when people refer to it being not accurate i think because it's so hard to read. Replacing it with a more accurate voltmeter might do the trick, but i can't see that as being better/good as an aftermarket boost gauge.

i've got the greddy profec with the fuzzy logic and i got no complaints. Only thing is getting the fuzzy logic to learn yourboost curve, but once that is completed it's a fairly easy to use/good EBC.

doh if you were in melb i'd take them off you @#$#@$

if they were 5 stud i would take them off you in a flash Please read the Rules.... Neil.

Sounds to me like fuel cut from what you have described, though is from personal experience in a mates r33.

I suggest you try the "wanted" section