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Sumo

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Everything posted by Sumo

  1. make one up yourself? I'm sure they couldn't be that hard to replicate.
  2. Some footage of r32 skylines at bathurst in a tribute for Denny Hulme. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGAmxsrIhII well worth a look.
  3. Ahh, sorry for the misinformation. Sumo
  4. First thing is, get a wheel alignment done, they should be able to tell you what has part is damaged and has adjusted it. Then its up to you whether you can fix it yourself - or take it to a mechanic to start with. Cheers Sumo
  5. Hmm, I would have thought that the only way for oil to get up into his intake would be to do with a seal letting it out of your turbo. Blow by is a completely different story? Cheers Sumo
  6. Im sure its the exploded diagram i saw of an 040. But it should have a oneway valve and an overpressure tank line return valve. Cheers Matt
  7. I would nearly put my money on a turbo being a bigger restriction. Cheers Sumo
  8. Without going into the depths of it all, an O2 only trims a mixture by (rule of thumb) 10%. If your still convinced its the problem - unplug it and run your car. Cheers Sumo
  9. 11-1?? Damn thats rich. I would be looking at your injector health. Either a couple cant supply the required fuel at 1.18ms or their spray patten isnt atomising it correctly which requires more fuel to hopefully "acheive" combustion. Cheers Sumo
  10. Upping the idle is a cheap way to get around the problem I suppose. It does very much sound like a AFM. A bloke I know with an r32 had problems with his car dying on the road, we suggested giving the AFM a hit with his hand which promptly stalled his car (once you get breaks in them little hotwires - its goodnight). He has replaced it now, and everything is running like a dream. Only way your going to really tell, is if you start checking signals returning from AFM's and by measuring your injector pulse width. If the coolant temp sensor is borked, your car will be running rich the start with and foul your plugs - which unburnt fuel will kill your O2 sensor and your cat. Cheers Sumo
  11. Yeah, Nylon trackies are a problem. Cheers Sumo
  12. Not quite true... Any mechanic or auto electrician that has a carman scan tool (big yellow one) can read the fault codes. Cheers Sumo
  13. I remember those days. Hybrid must have "made" a name for themselves Cheers Sumo
  14. Just finished repairing a pajero with what the mechanic thought was a fuel pump problem - without investigating it properly. The ECU was smoked.... you could smell the burnt electrical smell. Cheers Sumo
  15. Things that would really be a problem would be compression ratio's, your air fuel ratio's, exhaust would need to be changed, Intake would have to be modified, And your timing would have to be changed. Cheers Sumo
  16. Dont remove you battery terminals whilst your car is running - you have a posibility that your voltage may spike to 17-18 volts and blow something up. An Alternator will not cause the problem you are describing. Its more likely to be a power supply issue. Check your main power going into your fuse distrobution block. There is a possiblity that one cell in your battery may be playing up with a fracture in it. Your problem is not common, and is hard to diagnose over the net. Cheers Sumo
  17. I'ld be looking at the AFM... Bloke came in with a similar problem, but he would be driving along and lose power to the point where the car would crawl along. Cheers Sumo
  18. On the R33 the Idle speed controller is a stepper motor.... Winds in and out like the commodores. How would it know to idle up for air con? Cheers Sumo
  19. Lol, first time I did it at work I ended up with a nice bruise on my forehead. Cheers Sumo
  20. If your coils were the problem, you would have a miss. and bit of resistancce in your secondary side wouldn't be too bad, as this will step up your voltage. Cheers Sumo
  21. R33 afaik only come in NA GTS4 R32's had Turbo GTS4's Cheers Sumo
  22. Ouch mate, you'll need more then some glue to stick that back together
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