Ambi3nce

Quick update, went in for retune to swing cams to bring boost on earlier. Dialed in 20psi over previous 18psi. Gained 2HP, 30+nm torque and boost is on almost 700rpm earlier. Very happy with how it is now, I would not have though that 500-700rpm in boost earlier would make such a difference, but it feels night and day. Also got launch control set up for vipec so I can not fail miserably at the drags when I eventually get down,

Responsive 400hp and rb20 are three words that typically don't go together.

Here's the dyno. Full boost a little later than had hoped but tuner did say could move curve a bit so somewhere down the line may look at trying to get 18psi by 4k. Stoked with power figure though.

Read my build thread OP I was in same boat as you, tossing up between 5's and going 500hp or 9's and a bit less, I ended up with 9's, type b cams and the usual mods on e85 with 343kw/470hp at 18psi on a responsive and really fat mid range. You will drop off a bit at the top of the mid range on 9's but on a stock internal motor built for street response I see this as a positive as I do not have to wring its neck to get peak power. Like others said, for street I believe I definitely made the right turbo choice, 5's might only be another 750-1000rpm (guessing) later to full boost but having 18psi by 4K has been amazing so far.

Yeah decided to follow all advice I received about making it bullet proof and did that to the best I can

Copy Paste from another forum. Right here is the full list of work done this round anyway, Engine : Garrett 9-s Mines Ceramic Coated Dump Pipes Vipec V88 ecu Blitz radiator HKS cam gears Tomei Type B 260/260 9.15 pon cams DW1200 injectors Splitfire Coilpacks Walbro 465 E85 pump Rips Sump Kit Oil pump Billet gears sourced locally ATI 1000hp harmonic balancer Major service Misc: Project MU pads up front Valley and Cam covers painted wrinkle black Plenum soda blasted New R34 valley emblem Cusco brake cylinder brace Removed clutch vacuum assist lines Lifted car 20-30mm New heater hoses/gaskets bolts and various other parts you would expect Run new wiring relay to pump as stock had a current drop Thats all the major stuff, the budget was added to significantly as decided to take the advice of josh and many of you guys here in regards to tackling the oiling issues early, sump, pump gears and harmonic balancer were extras that required engine out, it worked out fine in the end since reduced a little labour in other areas and gave me the chance to soda blast the horrible flaky intake plenum paint and paint the valley/cam covers. Only spoke briefly to the tuner (Sean at ASG) but was as you would expect, made 470hp and turbos ran out of breath in top end which suits me fine when the original build brief was formed. Aimed for response and midrange, from the look of the graph and the very short spin I took in it today its within those parameters. Still cruises around in traffic perfectly happily off boost and clutch feel is only slightly heavier so still very easy to daily drive. I am in love with the new idle/exhaust note though, good amount of volume without being ridiculous. Will post the Dyno results when I get them and after have a debrief with Josh as to how it all went as he was busy today when I took it for a quick test. Plans for future are for one to enjoy it and get it onto some track days to stretch its legs and learn to drive it but the main priority is to get the exterior to immaculate, so ill find some nismo rear pods, fix a few tiny dents and do a few small things. Still smiling ear to ear haha

Ended up with r34 brembos got hubs drilled. Yeah 9s will post dyno graph when I get it, they ran out of breath early as expected but came on 18 psi early and strong

Bit of an update, car made 470 HP most of the HP/torque by around 5500 rpm. Will post dyno and parts list when pick it up today

Epic build Robbie. If it helps I bought a just jap carbon boot lip fitted perfectly. Can not say the same for the jun style front lip

If your spending that much why would you not go e85 its pretty minor cost for injectors and pump. Can tune some timing into mid range try compensate for lag of 5s.

My advice if you can bail and keep deposit or can lose it, Get out now, do yourself a favour talk to iron chef or jspec get something you have no doubts brought in

Depends what you want to spend. If tracking is on cards a a dry or better baffled sump/oil pick up could be on the cards. If you don't want to do big ticket stuff then take the time to replace engine mounts and repaint anything required etc

I realise don't need but half heads apart with major service and gears, plus that lumpy idle . I know marginal gain for response but type a/b set up right is still a gain so will do it now so only have to tune once.

Well in a few weeks my plan to achieve same goal happens. -9s -dump pipes (have dump back already) -vipec ECU -cam gears -poncams -1200 DW injectors -fuel pump -100k service -ati harmonic balancer -blitz 42mm rad. -e85 conversion Already dropped in coppermix twin bigger brakes and all the handling gear, Will report back with results. BTW mines a 94 r32 so no crank collar issues

Hi guys. Had a bit of a search and all topics were really old. So bumping it up to see if anyone knows where to find some nismo pods/spats genuine or copies Cheers

I bought my r32 stock gtr from down under and couldn't be happier. Very tidy car, as others said you pay retail but I was happy to do so for the right example.

Couple of quick pictures Plasti-dipped front bumper. List of stuff had done by Josh last time: Bcbr coilovers fitted Work Meister s1r 28x10 +12 fitted Archilles 123s 265x35x18 Blitz front pipes Front and rear camber arms Rear castor arms Replaced busted CV Serviced all the usual suspects Twin plate coppermix fitted High flow panel filter The difference in response the clutch and flywheel is insane feels like a more powerful different car even with no power mods as yet. Next up is: Front r34 brembos Rear castor arms Braided lines New pads Rear sway bar Front and rear strut braces With the handling all taken care of I'll start building towards my power figure. Would like to take this opportunity to thank and recommend josh and the team at galvsport I couldn't be happier.

Yeah Rob from JPC, that was the advice he gave me also, get the engine out do the basic bolt ons and future proof it by strengthening oil system and water pump etc.

Thanks for the input Simon, spoke to rob about your build the other day, I do not want to go anywhere near your power figure but alot of the things you have done and recommend I will include whether or not they are "absolutely" necessary as I am more interested in having a safe bullet proof engine and tune than pushing it. Will be a few months before anything drastic happens anyway while I collect parts but everyone here has definitely given me alot of good advice to think about. Cheers

Sounds like exactly what I am chasing, doing it that way gives me a good window of time between a good performance upgrade and then final goal which is where it will get really expensive.

Will keep this in mind when coming up with a plan of attack with a tuner, if I was going to rebuild right off the bat, would it not be better to do some forged work or upgrades to internals, although this is what I assume you mean by spending extra to make it bullet proof. Having never driven a modded GTR with that in mind, what do you think of just doing a good ECU that I will not have to upgrade later, getting a good tune and running a little more psi to and nothing else while I work out the next step. Should keep me well entertained while I get coilovers/wheels/exhaust all sorted and start planning the next step and assessing the health of the internals, That alone should yield a noticeable difference?

Thanks alot man, its not a downer at all, I just assumed that was about the ballpark for stock internals safe, if that number is closer to 300 then I am more than happy to aim for that until I am prepared to go the next step. You guys have all been very helpful, appreciate it

Good point, what do you guys recommend best way to ascertain the health of the internals, comp and bleed down tests an accurate measure? Anything else I can have done while mods go in to give me a better idea of where I am at? Copy that, I am hoping can get a bit of time between mods to rebuild to address the funds situation, murphy's law however is never so kind haha

This seems to be a reoccuring piece of advice, one I will definitely use. Sounds like this will be the go for the final 300-330ish, will probably do that after turbos etc. Mine is unopened, I don't intend to push power anywhere near the point where standard internals start to be at risk, sound like a plan that will hold up? Assuming I do the basics, make sure oil pump is good, cooling etc and harmonic balancer, standard internals should be fairly safe with the setup mentioned?

Well then it will be much easier to not touch fuel system and get what I can out of the mods already mentioned, then later on will swap it out and chase the extra 20-30kw Good advice, from what I have heard the ecu choice is most important to go with what the tuner is comfortable working with