MrBlonde

Who is coming out? Adrian, is that mean machine coming up from down South?

Tyre pressures and tyres themselves usually make a huge difference. Then experiment with launch RPMs. Keep a note of your 60' times as you try different variations. You will settle on a tyre pressure/launch RPM that gets you the best short time. Your best launch is highest RPMs with almost not wheelspin (10% slip is optimum for a hard launch).

Thanks Brett. It's not as easy as it looks! Provided ANDRA scrutineers pass the car with the front runners and slicks we should see a better ET with some decent traction. Here's hoping!

Brett, there's one good way to find out ...

Hehe. Hang on - that's not so funny!

Enforcing of the ANDRA rules at WSID seems to be inconsistent to me. I got bounced 11/8/2004 for running slicks with radials on the front. I counted several other competitors doing the same thing who were allowed to do so by the same officials who pulled me up for it. Anyone who runs 11.999 or quicker should have a four point harness, yet there are numerous competitors who break that rule. On 12/6/2004 I ran against George in HYP10A when he ran 9.355 @ 145.44 MPH yet the car was not fitted with a parachute. As for needing a tailshaft loop when you run 12.999 or quicker, how many times have the scrutineers jacked your car up to check? The ANDRA rules are not enforced in a consistent manner by WSID scrutineers or ANDRA officials at the track. I think all the rules make sense and don't complain about any of them. But it's hard to swallow when the rules are enforced inconsistently, especially when you are on the wrong side of that inconsistency!

Yeah, a laugh riot!

Don't lose sight of the fact that the car ran hard into the tens. That's really good. Congratulations for that feat; it's not easy to do. This is a drag racing subforum. Therefore people who come here like drag racing. Running a ten in a street car is a big deal. Let's give credit where it's due.

Shane, here is my point of view: + Street Radials: there is no benefit from a burnout because street tyres do not work the same way as drag radials or drag slicks. They do not work better when heated up. Just drive around the water box and avoid getting the tyres wet. You might want to turn the tyres over to blast off any debris or water but this is just brief. Not everyone agrees with me. + Drag radials: Can benefit from a bit of heat. Watch staging official, drive slowly forward and on to water box. Stop when the marshal indicates you are in the water box (or perhaps just out of the water box. Select the appropriate gear (1st, 2nd or 3rd depending on your horsepower, the higher the gear the more power required to turn the tyres over). When the official signals to start your burnout, dial in some revs and drop the clutch. You can dance your left foot over to touch the brake a tad and balance the revs via throttle with forward movement via brake (takles a bit of practice). Now if you continue to creep forward and start to copntact your tyres with dry sticky track then you're obviously going to put more strain on your driveline. When you've got some heat into the DRs, just let off the brake and /or drop revs a tad and your car will creep forward. Get off the gas and bring the car to a halt. Now how much is enough is a matter of opinion. Generally the first couple of runs you get some good heat going and subsequent passes require a smaller burnout. + Slicks: As above but the slicks are designed to respond to more heat. With DRs and slicks, too much heat can be detrimental. Perhaps go to a GRoup One-Four meeting and watch how the successful racers do a burnout. You can pay more attention to cars that seem similar in setup to your own. How long do they do the burnout for? Where do they put their rear tyres to begin? Do they sit in the water box or roll through? Where do they stop their burnout? Regarding how to start, there are a whole lot of things to get right in a very short space of time for a beginner. It might pay to forget the burnout on your first pass or so to minimise how many thinhgs you are thinking about. You can then introduce a short burnout as you get more relaxed and comfortable. Once you've got your burnout szussed then you can concentrate on the tree and your launch - very important aspects (more important than a burnout??). Remember it's all about having fun!

You do not have to use Chrome Moly for your cage, but if you do then it must be tech inspected by ANDRA before painting. if you use mild steel the size required is larger than the CM equivalent. It is true that most shops are flat out busy at the moment.

How are you going with a six point cage?

Dude, as I said those circuit slicks aren't going to do the job you want! BFG DRs or drag slicks will however, and it's well documented what size DRs and what size drag slicks work on a GTR. Remember the BFG gForce DRs in 17"/18" aren't what you want. You want the 15" BFG Comp TAs with nice big fat sidewalls (50/60/65 profile).

I had a look through the ANDRA rule book for a checklist for what must be done once you run break into the ten second zone (10.999 or quicker). Let me know if I've missed anything! + 1.4 Credentials: Need ANDRA membership and Unlimited Drag Racing Licence (UDL). To get a UDL you need to undergo a medical examination. You can download the forms for these things at the ANDRA site. + 1.7 ANDRA Log Books. Need to apply for log books and have a tech inspection on your racecar. You can download the form at the ANDRA site. + 2.3 Driveline. A tailshaft loop is required for cars 12.99 or quicker. + 2.6 Flywheel Shields/Bellhousings. Required to use a steel or titanum bellhousing or shield according to SFI 4.1 or 9.1. You can use a ballistic blanket instead if there is no commercially available steel bellhousing. + 4.6 Parachutes. If your car runs faster than 140 MPH a parachute must be fitted and deployed on each run. + 4.7 Roll Cage. Full cage mounted at a minimum of six points (or if faster than 140 MPH). + 5.2 Tyres. Quicker than 12.50 you cannot use radial fronts with slicks on the rear. + 5.3 Wheels. Must be fitted with open ended wheel nuts. + 6.2 Window Nets. Must be fitted between side and top bars on the driver's side. + 8.1 Batteries. Require a blue triangle to indicate battery location. If quicker than 11.99 you require a battery isolation switch located in the battery location maker. + 9.1 Technical Inspections. Require tech inspection every two years. + 10.8 Helmet. Adhering to Australian Standard AS 1698 1974/1988 + 10.10 Protective Clothing. Require fireproof gloves, shoes, socks and a race suit adhering to one of: SFI 3.2A/5, FIA Norme 1986 or FIA Norme 8856-2000 + 10.11 Harness. Faster than 130 MPH requires a five point harness with crotch strap. Quicker than 11.99 requires a four point harness.

Bingo!

Hee hee! All right motor daddy, you badder than bad! Now to convert Nick to the world of 6 cylinders where WRX spells rear vision mirror!

I love it!

Thanks. I've given it a really good clean (warm water only) and I always make sure the air conditioning is on a low setting before I launch. What I'm doing on this forum is learning how to improve my ETs from other guys with late model fuel injected cars that run IRS!

11.1 is awesome and some nice fat sidewalled drag slicks will only help matters!

The old man's clutch will never be the same! ;-)

Wreckedhead/JETT: Awesome pass dude! See you next time with your rollcage and scattershield!

Yes if you mean by undertyred that it gets wheelspin. Unfortunately a 10" rim with 11" wide rubber is all that fits! The street radials are 285/35 R18 and they ripped through in all gears. The BF Goodrich Comp TA drag radials are 275/50 R15 and they turn through in the first three gears and pop in fourth. There is plenty of time lost in there I agree. I haven't run the MT ET Drag slicks yet because I am waiting for the front runners to be made up. So I can agree undertyred becaues I haven't run with slicks yet but how many cars that run 10.2 do it without slicks? On my short times I'll have to cop that on the chin! I did manage to pull off a slew of 1.9x and 1.8x short times tonight so I'm happy that I am at least improving. Thanks for being a little ray of sunshine! Adrian, thanks for the support dude. I managed to drop from 12.6 to 12.1 and from 11.3 to 11.0 without any changes to setup by improving my technique. I am the first to admit I am a beginner and have a lot of room for improvement in all aspects. But I can tell you that I am having a whole lot of fun learning! Adrian, your encouragement is always appreciated!

JETT told me he didn't use the nitrous. He was running 18" rims I think with circuit slicks on the rear. But he did have a tankful of C16 and no cats!

Adrian, the rolling circumference actually decreased which should give me shorter gearing (and therefore less trap speed). The street radials are 25.9" and the DRs 25.8" tall. But I also changed diff ratios in between 23/6 and 14/7 to a tad taller to combat the wheelspin. I think the higher traps was because I wasn't ripping the tyres through in 4th and 5th with the DRs.

Roy, M Coupe .. the M Roadster is the convertible version. Take a look at the Bavariacars website for more information (when Erik actually updates it!). That ET was with BF Goodich Comp TA drag radials (street legal radial tyres). With street radials my best was 12.125 @ 132+ mph.

Bingo! Couldn't agree more.