PHATR32

do you's realise the pump has a fine mesh filter on it which will pick up these "flakes" even before they pass through the pump and filter. of course it wont filter out the smaller stuff.

is it doing it after you checked the computer? you might wanna open the computer up and check for dry solder joints on the connect plug. my gtr had quite a of those, pain in the ass. steve

hey! blast from the past! and i havnt had time to fix the problem till now! anyways, to sum it all up, the castor on the left side is full out of wack, as a result of an accident on the passenger side. steering and suspension parts have been replaced with other stock items but it hasnt helped. quiestion is what can i do? is it possible to get the chassis straighened (with out having to pull all panels and other crap apart) or should i get and adjustable castor rod put in? i understand the castor rod is just a patch, but funds will be low for a while due to house renovations, so any help will be very much appreciated! thanks guys steve

shit, i wish i saw this last week. i had the same problems on my r32! good work work either way

f**king top work mate! i love conversions!

you checked the connectors on the atesa computer? may be a loose conenction. steve

nice one man! my bro in law last week bought one, and the week before that, his brothers, brother in law got one too!

when i pulled the fuel tank out of my car (89 model) it was clean, no crap at all. unless someone in japland cleaned it, i think this mainly a myth, OR counts only for older cars with steel gas tanks. i suppose..........

ill pm you my address so you can mail me your credit card, ill take out 99cents for the rewinder and mail the card back to you.

hmmmmm, check out the pics in the shopmanuals, the one in jap is the r34 one and the english one is for th r32. from one the pics i can see both have a return spring. maybe the r34 one is stronger/larger? or maybe theres now differance between them at all? steve

thanks for that, i was meant to say transfer and not box! as for the preload, ive read a few places that mension springs, as well as hearing about people (33/34 owners) having to remove their front drive shafts while get a rwd dyno done to avoid burning out the clutch packs due to the pre load. that led me to beleive that springs where involved, because if you pulled the fuse on the atessa pump there wouldnt be any pressure on the plate from the fluid. maybe there are springs one the clutch plates them selves? again i have seen the 33/34 transfers so i really shouldnt comment. i may have to look into why my gtr kicks in late, it only happens for a split second, with wet lanuches she grips like shit to fur. steve

why dont you get your self an original godzilla and restore that? slap the stroked bottom end in it, and youve got your self a hell fast car that looks great.

same thing happens to my gtr, even 2nd chirps before the fwd do anything, when i smash it in. the r32 box is differant to the r33/34 boxs in the way that the 33/34's a preloaded via a spring (or something alomg those lines) which helps it kick in quicker. plus the electronics are faster too, the r32 attessa computer reads the abs sensors a hell of a lot slower than the the r33 etc. ive always thought about a r33 4wd conversion, but money is an issue. steve

defiently go fast parts, or at least handling parts.

meh, more parts for the rest us.......

well, on the r34 gtt's the abs is controlled by a differant box independent of the ecu. so for the r32 may be the same its been a while so ill have to check the shop manual but i assume the abs and attesa have their own ecu, and shouldnt be directly affected by your ems. need more info - you dont have abs? but want attesa? you may need the abs ecu to be running properly for the attesa to work. maybe plug in a dummy load to make the abs ecu think the abs unit i acutallly plugged in. steve

woah take it easy dude, not everyone is a millionare like your self.........

from whaat ive seen the 4wd box defiently wont in a gtt. the chasis is differant at the front where the front drive shafts fit, e.g there isnt a hump to fit them, therfore youll need to do some cutting and wleding which isnt a good idea.

actually when u pull the fuse on the r32's it compltely kill the front wheels, but the r33 and r34 the clutch pack is tightened by a spring (or somethign along those lines). basicly they will still be in rwd mode when u pull the fuse.

ive done a rb25det to a rb25dett conversion and it was piss easy, so a rb25 to rb25det would be easier.

also turnign the boost up is a pain in the ass as you cant just turn it up, as that will make the point where the turbos cut in/out even worse.... good idea in theory though....

can you even fit a gtr box in a gts chassis? looking at the r34 gt as an example, the chassis doesnt have the little bumps that you need to fit the front drive shafts. so i assume youll need to do some chopping etc

hell ye it works!! ive built up an engine with all those ebay mods - read this thread for more info http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...34937&st=60 you cant go wrong.

hey, ill be up for a twin pod filter box too. plain aluminum, no perspex, no leds, no neons, no fuel magents, just a nice tidy filter box. will have to see u about a 3 cat back some time next year. thanks! steve

ye itd be the heat that killig the power, getr a partitioning and a cai asap.