SLY33

yes and no. either the GTRS or GT2835Pro will be fine on a stock motor provided its healthy. My unopened (not even a head gasket!) 1993 rb25 was well used and abused on track and strip, running over 260rwkw and still has near perfect compression, so if your tune is good your stock motor might last indefinitly especially if its a street car. the GTRS will probably be a bit shy of your target, you might see 250rwkw with a good setup. (has anyone seen more than this yet from a gtrs?) im making just over 280rwkw (at 17psi) with small cams and a cheap cooler. IMO if your gonna chase 300rwkw and over, your best going gtr of some sort. cheers

if it had a hicas lock kit, wouldnt the light be on as soon as he started it as none of the hicas plugs are plugged in? i think thats the sitch in my gtst.. looks nice! give us some more pics! and specs etc, and if you dont mind what did it set you back?

pic?

im not a 32 vspec expert, but wasnt it only the vspec II's with the brembos?

yes, that is dissapponting, either the tuner is missing something or you have a major restriction somewhere! the 2.5 inch pipe should not reduce power by THAT much! as the power your making isnt much better than a stock turbo can do, even if the reading is a bit low! also you will find that the turbo wont hold boost over 6grand even if you remove your exhaust. i have a straight thru system and boost always drops back to 17psi at the top end. so dont worry about that, as you should still make lots of power at 17psi. whos doing the tuning?

theres a lot of support for the N1 water pump here, when in practise on the street a std one more than does the job adequately. its been reviewed many times that the N1 water pump has less blades than stock, and actually pumps less water at lower rpms that a street car would see. this is not what you want if you happen to get stuck in traffic. definitly dont skimp on the oiling! good god man!

nice! at what boost is it? 1.4? 1.5? these things are supposedly good for nearly 2bar. excellent for a stock stroke 26, would be pulling nice and hard by 4500. once you do your injectors, ive seen these hold power right up to 8grand! what cams are you running? beat me to it beer baron

actually i think its more like 32gtr updates ~4 times per second, 33gtr ~100 times per second, and the 33 V-spec is nearly 1000 times per second from what the magazines tell me, that is.

yours is machined billet, mine is still a cast crank. the step 3 hks is full billet, but also way more expensive For my application the step 2 will be more than enough. damn the apexi one looks great too!

as above, unless you are upping the compression, forged pistons wont make any more power if that is all thats changed, ie same turbo, tune, boost etc.

the kit has arrived, heres some of the crank. As nice as it is next to the stock crank, still not as impressive as StageZilla's billet item! HKS forged 2.8 crank as supplied with step 2 kit: im yet to take pics of the rods and pistons. Rods arent anything special to look at, but pistons look interesting with the black molybdenum coated skirts and gold nickel coated tops.

LOL at this piece of crap thread! 5 pages and only the 1 opening post from the author! this is ns.com material, i vote that this whole thread be deleted!! (or cut and pasted to ns.com) :D

look at my dyno graph supplied and see how it compares with yours. you will have to convert speed to rpms. the ~ is the point in my post. "about" 4 grand. i dont watch the tacho and boost guage simultaneously (my boost guage is in the glovebox and used only to check boost occasoinally by a passenger), nor do i have a dyno sheet with rpms. when im flat to the floor im more wathcing the road than anything else but i know that when the needle hits about 4grand its pulling hard. what does yours make peak with the 270 10.25 cams? mine are only 260 8.8's.

hehe, its getting more and more like that. i just want it to go nuts when the turbos hit, and get them hitting as hard as possible

thanks for that, good explanation! back on the topic of cams, would something like the tomei 280 11.5mm lift be a stupid choice for a street car? would it just make the low to midrange zone flat? would using a 2.8 bottom end make this cam passable on the street? i think ive asked this q'n before, and i cant remember if it was answered, but are there any rules of thumbs when choosing duration and choosing lift? such as 1mm increase in lift gives x amount of peak power increase?

i dont know when it starts building but its pretty early, full boost by ~4grand. does it pull as it winds up? do you mean as it builds boost is it still pulling? yes it does, wouldnt it have to?! Acceleration is still plenty for overtaking etc even when below 4 grand.

the supplied actuator is not 1.2bar, no idea what it is exactly. but with the ebc off i think i see around 0.85 or thereabouts...

like all the HKS stuff ive had, the dump supplied with the kit was of awesome quality, why didnt you like it? it might look a bit crude where the wastegate pipe merges (looking inside the base of the dump), as it looks like flow will be impeded by the main pipe, but it seems to work fine.

i made 266rwkw on stock internals with 2 pounds less boost. i then dropped in a built motor with forgies for piece of mind, and added the poncams at the same time and made the 281rwkw. The stock motor wouldve easily made the power with just the addition of cams.

well interestingly the compressor wheel/trim measures EXACTLY the same as a HKS2540. The ARMS has a bigger exhaust wheel tho. the kit is rated to 700ps, which is the same rating as the GTRS's your running, which i think is also the same rating as the trust T618's. So 700ps seems to be as much as any of these companies claim for their largest low mounts. but here i get confused: HKS GT-RS - 400 PS Output COMPRESSOR: Wheel = 51.2 Inducer / 71.1 Major Trim = 52 A/R = 0.60 - Housing- 60 Inlet / 50 Outlet HKS GT2540 - 350 PS Output COMPRESSOR: -Wheel- - 51.7 Inducer / 76.2 Major Trim = 46 A/R = 0.60 - Housing- 60 Inlet / 50 Outlet the 2540 compressor wheel- is it not LARGER than the GTRS wheel? yet how can the GTRS make 50ps more? Exhaust dimensions on both are identical. Yes the trim is larger on the GTRS, but SK explained to me that trim measurements arent really that meaningful.. The other thing that i dont get :lol: : how come two 400ps turbos in a kit is only good for 700ps? whereas on singles a 700ps turbo makes 700ps?? cheers

i have found opening the throttle body to make no difference, but hear you should do it?! Freeman, your next step should be to do a leakdown test on the cylinder thats low, and that will tell you if its ok. 10% leakdown is fine. RU34ME, how are you doing the test? how many times are you cranking it over before you take the reading?

lol, i wasnt sure as my last post was a little iffy trying to explain how mine fitted up.. without a doubt, you will 100% need an ECU like an fc, injectors, Z32 AFM and an upgrade fuel pump, and dont forget the clutch. i found the stock lsd couldnt put the power down with a stock turbo let alone the 2835. main problem was powering out of corners, it wasnt so bad in a straight line, but still suffered a bit.

i hope thats not sarcasm evilution.

i didnt have to modify my down pipe at all. My car came with a standard dump pipe, and ive since used an HKS dump for the 2530, and the HKS dump for the 2835 kit and they both bolted up without any mod. but then i must have had a different downpipe originally.

lol, no one can stop you from asking