Guilt-Toy

I have seen a few threads recently and also have recieved a few PM's where people have asked advice about certain ECU's. So I thought it would be a good idea to start a thread about my current ECU of choice. Most of you probably don't know me, but I have been a user on SAU since i purchased my first skyline back in 2002, since then after a blown engine i realised that i should never let anyone tune my car again and started to learn myself with the help of SAU of course. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/287968-guilt-toy-in-georgia-former-soviet-union/ Since then I am now a professional tuner in the UAE, I tune cars in Abu Dhabi and Dubai + other cities here for over 2 years now and 4+ years abroad, all kinds of cars... and ALL ecu's. The ecu i tune the most now is Motec. So the whole point of this thread is a certain ECU that has really tickled my fancy, for more reasons then one.... and i would like to share this. That ecu is the new Select range of Adaptronics. In this thread i will try and explain why, and also give as much info as I can about them and I will also post some tuned maps of customers cars with the ECU that I have tuned here. Firstly, my street car in the UAE, its a 2004 American spec z33 350z, its had the v6 engine removed and a RB30 from a VL with a 26 head installed, its running ID1000 injectors and HKS2510 turbo's on stock manifolds. with stock bottom end. I was running a Vi-pec ecu in this car for about 12 months until one day it decided that ignition number 3 did not want to run anymore, so it was time to try something a bit cheaper and when looking at the specs it did not seem that much different anyway ? lets talk about the difference between the two. The vipec runs the injectors fully sequential, where the adaptronic plugin is group fire. The vipec runs the igntition in wasted spark, so does the adaptronic. Lets talk about group fire and sequential and also wasted spark. I have personally seen and tuned cars in wasted spark with 800+ hp at the wheels, if you have coils good enough for the task I am 100% certain that you will never have ANY issues no matter how much you hear from joe blow. I have also seen a friend of mine here, a tuner test a link G4 ecu tuned supra making 700hp, it was running wasted spark and also sequential injection, he changed the injectors to run off 2 injector drivers and back to back runs without much changes to the tune to make no difference in power or in drivability. I purchased one of these ECU's and installed it into my car and tuned it up, because i am using the stock 26 intake manifold and throttles i setup the tune to run a VE map with TPS and using MAP as a corection on boost. Since using this setup I have to say that this ECU really impressed me, one of the things that really impressed me was how well it tunes compared to other big brands, and I am talking.... I know this sounds bad but it tunes sooo much better then a motec, haltech, even the G4 / Vi-pec..... the VE on the adaptronic reminds me of the Autronic more then anything which is far far better then the motec M series, which is not a true VE system anyway. The skyline plug in select ecu comes with its own case, so you don't have to butcher your old ECU to make it work, and inside the ecu there are also some other differences. Inside the ecu you can connect 2 external cables, with more available options then the G4 / vi-pec plug ins. I decided to open the ECU and instead of using the suggested plug that adaptronic sell, (not worth the shipping all the way to the UAE) i decided to manually solder some wires to the ecu board which worked a charm also. (pics will be posed) I connected the thermo fan to this and its working great. The software on the adaptronic is not as easy or used friendly as the G4/ Vi-pec, its on about par with motec IMO, but now after tuning a few of them its really no different once you remember where everything is. one of my customers had a american spec 240z, which had a RB25DET NEO installed. This car needed a full wire job so i took on the task of installing a Adaptronic e420d BASIC ecu, which is a wire in ecu. This ecu retails for less then $1000 and it is NO different then the select, just that it needs to be wired manually. When we installed the ECU we did not hook up any of the idle control, none of the Air conditioning inputs or corrections just the ECU runing the engine and rest was setup by tuning. the customer is sooo happy with his car, even now the car has air conditioning and idles like a treat! its just sooo cheap and basic and easy to setup, for me really its just easy quick setup and tune and go... So about my own car, this ecu has been running in there for the last 4 or 5 months, I have the vi-pec getting repaired and also i have a RB26 power fc which i was planing on installing in this car, but now I am not going to remove it or touch it as the car is running perfect!!! I have installed this ecu in a few cars now, Nissan TB48de nissan patrol, a S14 silvia with a LS3 V8, a G37 infinity with a RB30DET, and also my 350z and I have nothing but good things to say about this, to put it in a nut shell its a budget priced ECU which has options that puts in the mid to high ecu class. I recommend this ECU to anyone in the Skyline scene, the support you get from Adaptronic is also very good. here is a video of my 350z when i tuned it a couple of months ago, i have since then rebuilt the engine (australia day burnouts got the better of me) and its even going even better now!!! http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=370462689716897 Some pics also. I will help anyone as much as i can, just post up your questions in this thread and when i get time I will reply, I am also quite new to the ECU compared to the link / vipec / motec / autronic etc etc but willing to help out as much as I can. I will post up the map of the r34 NEO and also my 350z and here are some pics. The only other ECU that i have seen that even comes close to this is the Haltech platinum sport 500, except the Haltech does not support Boost control!!! to use a solinoid on the haltech you have to set it up as a dodgy general output with no options at all, the adaptronic has full open and closed loop boost control! the plug in even has flex sensor support, so IMO it leaves the basic haltech for dead. The Adaptronic can also support a AFM if you would like it to, it also has a 4 bar map sensor STANDARD out of the box and a vac line and tuning cable provided. Adaptronic Select plug-in 350z Dyno with old engine My 350z The VIP customer's Drift car, Sheikh of UAE. G37 infinity engine bay shot (engine getting rebuilt- the stock block had bearing issues) Datsun US spec NEO RB25 I will continue to add what i can to this thread, and will also be posting tuned maps shortly, the software is available for download on the web site and also beta versions available on the forums. please do not flood me with questions by PM, you can post them in this thread or also you can ask on my facebook page. http://facebook.com/tunedbyanthony Please note that I have nothing to gain by posting this, I am not tuning in Australia nor am I a dealer there. If you wish to purchase one of these ecu's please go to www.adaptronic.com.au and check out the dealer list or purchase online at the store. I cannot buy and sell this ecu within Australia.

how do i do it ?

can you shim the GTR diff the same way or a different way to the vlsd's? I hate the locker in my car and i want to go with something more user friendly. Its a R32 GTR diff.

check out this Nissan Patrol http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=391536637609502

think you will be suprised what a 450kw gtr can do.

ID1000s are the only injector you need to use. why does it matter if its too big ? too small? a id1000 injector will idle a 2000cc engine better then any of the old out dated injectors. stop wasting time and order a set today. I used them in my 300rwkw rb2630 Nissan 350z, and its perfect.

+1 for adaptronic

thanks mate i am still working though, going to tune a 2010 camaro today. this is a video from the dubai autodrome a few weeks ago. there is some videos of the skyline and z33 on my facebook page. http://facebook.com/tunedbyanthony

hehehee.. yeah.... took me a while to find that problem... its funny that 4 mechanics just did not see it??? i could hear something is not right on that side of the car.. so i got someone else to do a power run while i watched from outside and thats what i saw i was laughing for hours after that. well... the news is that i quit my job, now i am tuning here and there doing my own thing and I have alot of work at one workshop about 180km away in another city which i drive to about 5 times a week, but i also have some huge legal problems with my visa and what not... i guess someone was not too happy that i wanted to leave to hit me with the ban stick....?? My sponsor has some huge plans but i cannot really talk much about it until i get a new residence visa etc etc. I am still tuning every day but now I am not stuck in one place. I created a new facebook page, so LIKE my page, and share it with your friends... I will be posting everything up on there when i can, and will also keep this thread up to date once everything is finished. should not be too long to go! i could not come back home for chrissy because of these issues.. but i hope its all good soon. my facebook page is www.facebook.com/tunedbyanthony and my youtube is www.youtube.com/upyas I am finding that alot of skyline / RB guys are interested in my services, we are doing a nissan infinity g37 RB30DET conversion, 26 head and 25 box... I am doing a adaptronic basic ecu install in the car and tune. I just finished a really nice american 280zx with rb25det neo with a adaptronic and there are some other old school Z cars who are going to start a install also. i have sorted out the 350z, she is flying now... 385hp at wheels, there is a video on my facebook, and also the 32 has a gt35r again, and that car is just crazy fast there is no traction in all 4 gears with 285 rubber on the rear on only 21psi boost!!! the 32 cannot handle the power as well as the 33 did i suppose. thanks for your continued support! I am still battling it away in the land of sand... its not easy here I tell you this, but in the long run it will pay off I am sure!

I don't think any ECU can read the 360 as well as the oem ecu.

its all bullshit. there is NO compatibility issues with the ignition system, nor is there problems with ignition breaking down or whatever you hear. the vipec / link is a good ecu it just suffers from the old 360 optical triggering system that nissan uses like MANY other ecu's do. why do you think AEM sells a trigger disc ? because they want to sell it to vipec customers? because this is a GLOBAL issue. the issue is that now days the rb engines and cars they are in are getting on in age, the triggering system will start to fail and degrade over time. wires get old, sensors get tired, cam trains get out of balance.. there are many many reasons why. so please ignore all the bullshit because its just that.. bullshit. sure there might be other ecu's that can handle a old 360 system better but which ones they are we are not sure of because nobody has done back to back testing. i was thinking of doing something with my drift 32 but right now i am keeping the vipec with pauls trigger disc. seems to have done the trick for me, and my head has done over 360,000km and has tomei pro cams in it.

yes has been a issue and still is an issue. especially with engines with cams and old cas's. changing the trigger disc still does not give you a stable rpm at times. but most times you will have no issues at all. if you look at the stock trigger disc you will see it has 360 slots that the ecu needs to read every time it turns around, imagine how fast the ecu has to be and how good the sensor has to be and how good the wiring has to be to send the signal to the ecu at 5000rpm ? I am pretty sure the stock ecu has some kind of error correction or something to read it as good as it does.. but then again i am sure nissan / hitachi / whoever makes the ecu has more experience in making ecu's then link / vi-pec. its not an issue that you should decide against buying the ecu... just something to be aware of incase you suffer from the issue.

ok then the problem is that you are doing it wrong and you are damaging your sensors. get someone who knows what they are doing to install it and then it will work a treat. maybe paul can help if you can track the bugger down. never touch that pin... its not supposed to move... that would have been a massive pain in the ass to get out.. lol how did you do that?

i am honestly becoming a very very big Adaptronic fan. www.adaptronic.com.au check out the select plug in range... this ecu really kicks ass! i got one in my rb30det 350z... and i replaced a vipec with it.... its that good. its the go.. give it a try.

what pin? you talking about the shaft going into the bearing ?

hahahahaa... if only every car i tuned had a stable rpm like yours! thats pretty solid man. come to me when your car hits the rev limiter at 4000rpm when the rev limiter is set to 8000rpm because the rpm jumps up and down 2000 - 4000rpm here and there. then you will understand frustration and triggering issues.

you f**ked something up, i have had many types of trigger discs in these CAS and they all work fine. Pauls is one of the best. try the disc in a new sensor and try be more careful when pulling it apart. it takes some time to get used to opening them up but you will get it eventually

i have never seen trigger issues with the PFC, its only with aftermarket ecu's that cannot keep up with the 360 optical system that nissan uses and the PFC is very OEM like. anyway the PFC does not allow you to change the trigger settings, they are engine specific only.

are you sure you are setting them up properly? if the cas is old you can still have problems with the trigger disc anyway.

you can change the disc inside the cas in less then 15 minutes. its a little fiddly if you don't know what you are doing. autronic also sell a drop in unit. call Ian he can sell you one if you cannot get hold of paul at red r racing, this forum has some kinda vandetta against him these days so he is not so easy to track down anymore. i use the autronic ones in my car and they work fine. you will need to update the trigger settings and re-do the ignition timing.

not keen for a 34 getrag... its just a street cruiser.. not that into this car... good idea though.

the 6 speed can be adapted with a adapter plate.. but they are weak and people break them with NA 3.5's... in my car it would die for sure.

replied to your pm mate

only a 2 bar map sensor... so one bar of boost and your back to old limiting issues of the L anyway... what a way to waste your cash... just get a decent ecu and run 2 fuel maps at least then you can have a 3 bar map sensor.

there must be a 3.5 diff that comes out in a r32 or something similar... the diff in my r32 that i purchased here.. the diff was crazy... 4th gear will spin the rear wheels to 260km/h. when i removed the diff it looked like a GTS-T diff of some sort, because it did not have the GTR type tail shaft setup that the gtr's do and it was a viscous because i shimmed the diff. it was with my 380kw rb30det setup, and the car really did suck to drive, i hated it. off boost it was just boring for me, you couldnt get the wheels to spin or have any fun off boost you had to always load up the engine before anything interesting happen. when on boost the gears went forever and it was just boring. when driving the car before i realised the diff gears were out the car was just dangerous, at that kind of speeds in 4th gear i slowed down and wondered why the car felt soo unsafe, i only worked it out when on the dyno and i saw the wheel speed at the top of a dyno pull when i started to wonder wtf is wrong. and drifting that car SUCKED, had to drift in first gear because dropping the clutch in second gear was impossible, the car would go sideways but because the wheels are spinning sooo fast 140km/h + you just put out soo much smoke and then lose it because of the high wheel spin speed at such slow speeds. i took the diff out and installed a r32 gtr diff, and welded it. all is good now the car is awesome to drive. my 350z with a rb30dett with rb25det box also has a 3.5 ratio, this one i don't mind so much because its a daily driver, but same goes with r32.. i dont ever bother trying to do any kind of drifting or burnouts as it just puts too much strain on the drive train and its just plain old stupid... i already broke the diff in the 350z and i am looking at changing it back to a 4.11:1 to match the 25 box as these things had a 6 speed standard. however the good thing is because i do alot of highway driving, i can cruise in 5th gear doing 155km/h for hours on end without any overheating issues or any problems at all, get great fuel economy also... i drive to work which is a 150km trip, 70% of that i am sitting on 155km/h and im reving at 3500 or so rpm, in the skyline it would be at 4.2k + (diff is a normal 32gtr one now) ?? if anyone can help me to get a 4.11:1 or even 3.9 into my 350z that would be nice. I would seriously not change the diff gears unless you want better fuel economy and dont care about enjoying your car the way it should be enjoyed... maybe if you can change the 5th gear cog only to drop the rpm down would be a better option too. don't change it.. if your adding extra torque then.... ...... .. "enjoy it, don't destroy it!" IMHO